Just like all bikes it's always about compromise, and it's no different with battery's. I ask about the differences with his battery, and the stock battery. He charges his pack to 84v, but the stock battery charges to 87.6 v. On the surface it looks like the stock battery is stronger, but he explained to me it's not. It had to do with the chemistry of the battery's.
LiFeP04 (LFP) vs Lithium Manganese Cobalt (LMO),
On the plus side the LFP has decent power density, and long life, and fairly low internal resistance.
The weakness is even though it charges to 87.6v hot off the charger, as soon as you put a load to it, the voltage drops almost instantly to about 80v. Because of the internal resistance, when you whack the throttle the voltage sag is about 10v.
The LMO in comparison has greater power density, and less internal resistance. The trade off is less cycle life.
Hot off the charger the LMO doesn't drop blow 84v for about 10 km, and then settles to about 80v. Sag under full load is a lot less. about 2, or 3v, instead of 10, so acceleration is better in comparison.
I'm not really planning to change any of my limit settings, I'm mainly only interested in the greater ah capacity, but a little better acceleration won't hurt anything either.
People in the know are paying less than $6.50 for these cells, so 280 cells x $6.50 = $1820 for 35 ah, which is about twice the size of the stock 18 ah battery which costs $2600 for the factory.