Earth Crusher #0000001
- Thread starter miked826
- Start date
I'm pretty sure that nobody wants it over with more than me. I'm all beastly, beasted out.
That mid-drive motor had better dislocate my arms at the shoulder when I hit the throttle or it will all be for nothing. LMAO
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Well I just got the last 2 Turnigy Nanotechs from HobbyKings USA Warehouse. That will give me 72V and a whopping 4Ah. It's 1/10 of the batteries that I really need, but it is enough to do a few high speed runs. LMAO
LiPo. It's not the size that matters, but the motion of the ocean. LOL
LiPo are capable of continuously releasing over 250A of neck snapping electrical thrust to the engine. LifePo can not even come close to doing that amount with the exception of the original A123 Prismatics, which no longer exist.
Today at 12:55AM I could wait no longer! I hooked the battery charger directly to the bikes battery cables and turned the ignition key on top of the gas tank. No snaps, crackles, pops or puffs of smoke anywhere. The contactor switched on, the Cycle Analyst lit up, and the controllers Power On LED lit up.
After about 5 minutes the battery charger sensed it wasn't charging a thing and kicked down to 10V and everything shut off on the bike. LOL
After about 5 minutes the battery charger sensed it wasn't charging a thing and kicked down to 10V and everything shut off on the bike. LOL
My bikes alive but my rear hub is pretty much butchered trying to get the Top Hat Adapter to not only fit over the hub but to be true when I bolt it down. It did neither even when I flipped the Top Hat adapter over and mounted it the other way. It looked flush but somehow it was not.
My frustrated wrath unleashed on my bikes rear hub. LMAO
Split the back of my index finger open with the grinder in a fraction of a second. Quickly duct taped the wound closed and made sure it stopped the bleeding.
My frustrated wrath unleashed on my bikes rear hub. LMAO
Split the back of my index finger open with the grinder in a fraction of a second. Quickly duct taped the wound closed and made sure it stopped the bleeding.
If somebody, anybody, ever invents a Direct Bolt On, High Strength, Universal, Disc Hub Sprocket adapter that actually works, Out Of The Box, then that will be a great day in Motor Bicycling History. Not a friction clamp that wraps around the hub, because that will surely fail with the motor I'm using. The Top Hat Adapter is a good idea but it needs to be seriously redesigned.......to put it mildly. 
That's pure frustration unleashed gorilla style. The 6 hole threads were already stripped out from trying to get the sprocket to bolt on true using the Top Hat Adapter. If I used nuts as spacers to keep the Adapter off the hub then the sprocket would spin true with no wobble. No other way worked.
I stripped the threads out trying to get the chain to clear the chainstay. The chain never cleared it no matter what I tried. Now I gotta weld a roller tensioner on the chainstay.........today.
I thought I was bad. Lmfao, you win.
The Top Hat adapter I got from Kings luckily fit my hub, just not hub + rotor + caliper. Have to run a C brake on the rear and disc up front.
What are you doing doing for a rear brake now? Since you butchered your hub.
The Top Hat adapter I got from Kings luckily fit my hub, just not hub + rotor + caliper. Have to run a C brake on the rear and disc up front.
What are you doing doing for a rear brake now? Since you butchered your hub.
If I would have had dynamite then I would have posted a pic of that hub in small smoldering pieces. LMAO
The front and back wheels are identical in every way and the front wheel is too wide for the forks so I will move the front wheel to the back. I ordered a narrower disk hub from ChoppersUS to go up front, allowing me to eventually toss out the fork legs I have now for suspension legs.
No because I now know that I have to install a roller tensioner which is how I stripped the threads on the wheel in the pic. Putting the sprocket on and off and on again, over and over. The front wheel is now on the back and the sprocket is on and I have 7/8" of space between the disc and the sprocket. I installed the sprocket only once this time and left it that way.
Looks like I'm gonna have a rear brake after all. I almost gave up on it altogether.
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My motorcycle tire is 4 1/8" wide and the space between the dropouts is 8". The whole bike is built on an industrial scale. LOL
The motorcycle tires never lose air just sitting around like a bike tire does and the knobbies are much harder to suffer a flat that any street tire is because the knobs are solid chunks of rubber.
Oh it gets better. Then engines maximum momentary power rating is nearly 27 HP. It also has 1 touch Cruise Control and automatic Slope Hold on hills.