No More NoMoreFlats
- Thread starter Large Filipino
- Start date
I wonder if anyone makes a tire liner that's made of thin sheet metal. I'm guessing it would surely stop a thorn or otherwise from puncturing the tube. When I was in the Army I had a pair of jungle boots that I modified for our quarterly 12 mile road marches. The modification was to remove the sheet metal liner just under the insole of the boot. It had very little weight to it. The Army jungle boots were developed during the Vietnam war, where the VC used to set traps with poisoned pungee sticks that would puncture through regular boots. They worked.
As Slim Pickens said in Blazing Saddles, "That is a eenuke idea." Of course it would have to be thin enough not to add much weight. Yet strong enough to resist foreign objects. And coated to prevent cutting into the tube. But yeah. I like the idea.
I've thought about using metal strapping for a tire liner a couple of times. (The stuff that they strap big, heavy things to pallets with). I have some in the garage that's about 3/4" wide. What slows me down in thinking about it is the ends of the strap, how they'll have to overlap a little but without providing any kind of sharp edge or anything to avoid damage to the tube or tire. For now I use an old tube (slit all the way around and folded over on itself) layered inside the tire between it and the current tube.
I've had good luck with the Slime brand ATV green goo which has bigger pieces of rubber and lint in it, which it claims can plug up to a 1/4" puncture. When I bought the gallon jug of it for $60 I was a bit skeptical after using the Slime marketed for bicycles which is thinner and has smaller chunks of junk in it. The ATV slime has been great, and it seems to keep the inner tubes from drying out and cracking from sitting around. I haven't had any issues with thorns or any of the problems I would encounter sometimes with the regular Slime which I filled my mountain bike tires with previously. I think it also adds the benefit of making the tires self balance from centrifugal forces distributing the stuff around when you get rolling. My worst tube failures in the past have been from snake bites on the tube from the rim, when a tire loses air slowly over a ride and goes unnoticed and you hit a good bump, or the time I thought I'd be superman and jump off a lip into a dry creek bed 5 feet below and landed hard at the bottom with no speed, something any tire liner or slime probably wouldn't have prevented.
For a motorbike I would be wary of anything that makes the contact patch of the tire less flexible, like the tire liners and such, because you want as much flexibility as you can get for gripping the road. Keeping the pressure as high as the tube and wheel and tire allow also will help to prevent the snake bite failure which can't be repaired with patches, and requires a new tube.
For a motorbike I would be wary of anything that makes the contact patch of the tire less flexible, like the tire liners and such, because you want as much flexibility as you can get for gripping the road. Keeping the pressure as high as the tube and wheel and tire allow also will help to prevent the snake bite failure which can't be repaired with patches, and requires a new tube.
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I've used a Mr. Tuffy tire liner before but it pinched my tube where the tire liner overlapped. Does anyone recommend ducktaping the Mr. Tuffy tire liner to the tire. Or what success tips have you had with using Mr. Tuffy. Thanks
I'll bet some of you oldtimers remember the OP; Large FiliHe was one of the good guys. Yet not a peep out of him in quite some time. SrDavo got in on this one as well. Another one of the good guys.
I remember others who could be pretty 'volatile'. And yet were still nice folks. But we don't hear from them.
It's kinda melancholy looking over these old threads.
I'm still alive! But I gave motorized bikes a break for a couple of years......but I got the bug again.
Scored a Briggs and Stratton at the flea market.
And I'm re gearing my trike so a go cart centrifugal clutch will work on the Dax original carrier. There's no reduction on the engine so my Front 20 inch wheel is now a 16 inch wheel with a 60 spoke sprocket!
There's still much work to do. Like figuring out throttle. And drilling some holes.
And front brakes.
My engines from my Dax kits still work because I had drained them. One though is a little touch and go. It would just suddenly stop when it wants to. I'm thinking dirty magneto or something to that effect.
But I only paid 30 bucks for this 148cc B&S.
Never had oil or gas in it ever. He wanted 60 but he couldn't prove that it ran.
It was one of many in a pallet that some corporation replaced with engines that were not discontinued and larger displacement for some generators or something.
That's his story anyway.
I simply couldn't pass it up.
So now I'm even considering registering it as a 148cc scooter so I can be a little more legal.
Really not too sure if this can be pulled off as far as legalities go.
I also gained some weight and blowing tires was a real bummer.
But I also miss riding.
My Trike incidentally would be entirely American made when done.
It's my Worksman trike made here.
Carrier by Dax made here.
And my B&S was made before they had China involved....I think..
So I'm pretty sure that's made here too.
So my goal is to juice a lot and cheat on food less.
And get back on the saddle.
I miss you guys but I've been on Facebook.
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Welcome back Large Filipino!
Your creative insight and helpful input has been missed!
It sounds like you have another good build planned.
I am hoping for a build thread on it, even if it is a re-work of a good build.
Ride safe and enjoy your fountain of youth!
Your creative insight and helpful input has been missed!
It sounds like you have another good build planned.
I am hoping for a build thread on it, even if it is a re-work of a good build.
Ride safe and enjoy your fountain of youth!
Thanks Gearnut! I'll get a thread started soon with pics.
It's gonna be a slow build even though I generally have most of the parts now.
Just things like getting Carbide drill bits to make some new holes and setting up the throttle cable will be what's going to take up a lot of time.
Then there's the fact that the DMV may require I have lights so I may just ride this trike on the down low.
The engine could pass for a smaller displacement if I remove some stuff....
I'm hoping they'll make some kind of exemption seeing how this build is about torque and less about speed.
I'll hold on to the governor so my top speed would be restricted to about 20 mph.
Thinking if I just stay below that I won't attract too much attention.
It's gonna be a slow build even though I generally have most of the parts now.
Just things like getting Carbide drill bits to make some new holes and setting up the throttle cable will be what's going to take up a lot of time.
Then there's the fact that the DMV may require I have lights so I may just ride this trike on the down low.
The engine could pass for a smaller displacement if I remove some stuff....
I'm hoping they'll make some kind of exemption seeing how this build is about torque and less about speed.
I'll hold on to the governor so my top speed would be restricted to about 20 mph.
Thinking if I just stay below that I won't attract too much attention.
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i use & recommend the mr tuffy (brown) ..also i add a few poofs of talc while in installing my thorn resistant tubes ...i make sure to run the powder all around the inside on the tire
ive never had a pinch flat on any tire / tube ive done this with
..oh btw trim off the excess liner you want a straight edge to edge joint/ seam
also i use quality wire beaded tires & quality rubberized rim tape
moral of the story ...dont cheap out
hope this helps
ive never had a pinch flat on any tire / tube ive done this with
..oh btw trim off the excess liner you want a straight edge to edge joint/ seam
also i use quality wire beaded tires & quality rubberized rim tape
moral of the story ...dont cheap out
hope this helps
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I always pump the tubes up a little before installing the tires, about 3 or 4 pumps usually does it. Just so the tube is completely round, then put the tube in the tire and put the tire on. Inflate the tire a little at a time, working the bead back down on the rim after every few pumps until there is enough pressure to keep the bead from moving anymore. Never had a pinch flat doing it this way.
I have never gotten a pinch flat from tire liners and I have always let the extra length overlap. I usually use heavy duty/ thorn resistant inner tubes though. Maybe it's the extra thickness of the inner tube that prevents them?
Well I use 21 x 3 inch motorcycle inner tubes they are 4mm thick and never hade a flat knock on wood
Just curious, do these tubes you use work out good in 26" bicycle tires?
Just curious to what size tire you are running these tubes in.
Map
Yes they do my mb is a 26" motorcycle go by rim size while bikes go by tire size . A 26" bicycle rim size is 22" with a little stretching it works just fine for me
Thank You sir
I been looking for better than average tubes even though I use the thicker thorn resistant type, I dont worry that much about the tubes but the valve stems in bicycle tubes are the weak point I think, I have seen them blow off and had one of mine do that a couple weaks ago on my bike with 24" wheels
I'm wondering now if 18" motorcycle tubes will work in 24" bicycle tires?
If so I may replace those with motorcycle tubes also.
Thanks again mike.car
Map
Well the only thing I can suggest is to measure across your 24" rim then measure the depth of the valley multiply that by 2 and subtract that from the rim measurement and you got the rim size
I'll do that and thanks again for the great advice and for answering my question.
Map