Front Fender Problem on a motorized bicycle

[abikerider]

So you have no L bracket and the fender does not move with the front wheel right? So those struts do not pivot. Now I get it. Well that's definitely a unique way of doing it. Did you consider making the struts that mount to the fender shorter so only a tab sticks out and then making the other half that attaches to the fork longer? Then it would be a straight piece between the fender and fork without that 90 degree angle to introduce flex. I'm not trying to tell you how to do it, just giving you ideas for next time.

 

[Harold_B]

The struts don't pivot as in responding to bumps but they do in that the angle they meet is adjustable. This way I could make the gap between the tire and the fender, and the fender and the frame/electrical bus just so without having to get the brace lengths exact. I have a knack for cutting things a hair short no matter how many times I measure (I'm better off at a CAD station than with real tools) so adjustability is a bonus! Thanks for looking it over and for the feedback though. I intend to take the bike apart over the winter to make some changes and the fender braces will get another look.

 

[abikerider]

Thanks for sharing your pics and design Harold. It is always cool to see different design approaches to a problem.
Mike

 

[HBfisherman]

The more I read this thread the less excited I get about building my bike.

 

[allen standley]

Re: Front Fender Problem

See my album on the fender spines I make for all my bikes.

 

[happycheapskate]

Builder bob, if you properly adjust a conventional hub (cones and locknuts, loose ball bearings, dust caps or rubber wiper seals), it will do just fine and last many thousands of miles with only minor adjustments needed when it shows play. Road cyclists and downhill bikers ride at speeds over 30 frequently and for long periods and do not have problems.

If a locknut and cone are not tight enough, and dislodge, they could seize up a hub, but it is more likely that it would loosen to an extreme so the wheel wobbled.

Use high quality bearing grease and proper cone wrenches, and all should be well.

 

[billragland]

Amen to all above. I read a scary article a couple years ago about front fenders and in time replaced my Schwinn Wally World build with a EZMotorbike kit by changing the front attachment to the frame to heavy duty galvanized angle iron successfully. Unfortunately, I didn't get scared enough. Last summer going 35mph on the highway, my real fender had broken both inline attachment points (with about a 2 day advance warning of bike rattling I didn't recognize). As the fender was pulled forward and shortened on the side stays, my bike went from 35 to 0 in about 3 seconds of straight zero tire rotation and burned a big flat section of heavy duty tire. I was able to rip out the fender and side supports and rode home. 3 days later the tire and tube flattended and I had to order a new expensive tire, Presta tube and eventually a new bearing and internal coaster brake assembly for my very expensive rear drive wheel. I now have heavy duty galvanized angle iron on both attachment points so I won't have to suffer that type of heart wrenching experience again.

 

[2door]

Amen to all above. I read a scary article a couple years ago about front fenders and in time replaced my Schwinn Wally World build with a EZMotorbike kit by changing the front attachment to the frame to heavy duty galvanized angle iron successfully. Unfortunately, I didn't get scared enough. Last summer going 35mph on the highway, my real fender had broken both inline attachment points (with about a 2 day advance warning of bike rattling I didn't recognize). As the fender was pulled forward and shortened on the side stays, my bike went from 35 to 0 in about 3 seconds of straight zero tire rotation and burned a big flat section of heavy duty tire. I was able to rip out the fender and side supports and rode home. 3 days later the tire and tube flattended and I had to order a new expensive tire, Presta tube and eventually a new bearing and internal coaster brake assembly for my very expensive rear drive wheel. I now have heavy duty galvanized angle iron on both attachment points so I won't have to suffer that type of heart wrenching experience again.

You are indeed a lucky man. I know from experience what can happen when a rear fender wraps around the wheel. I'm glad you weren't hurt. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Lots has been written over the years about the hazards of fenders. Yours is just one more example of what can happen if precautions aren't taken when mounting them.

Tom

 

[billragland]

Thanks for the confirmation. This is another reason I wear a full motorcycle helmet before I turn off my triple security systems and mount up.

 

[Allen_Wrench]

I look at fenders as an item on my pre-ride checklist and as a preventative maintenance routine. I have at least an inch of clearance front and rear. The front has five bolts, the rear six. I use wide fender washers where they'll work, putting a curve to them. I use lock nuts all around.
But I also inspect them, tightening whatever needs it (doesn't happen often) every single time I get ready to ride. They do their work to keep the mud or rain from spraying me as I ride. The least I can do is treat them like the important part of the bike that they are and maintain them properly like the rest of the bike.