Hello Motorbicycling,
Please only respond if you are serious, and try not to pick apart my build too much please.
Some of you may have seen this bike I've built over the past year or so;
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=42405
I'll post up some most recent pictures after performing the preparation for sale, I really want to take a bunch of shots anyways because I'm going to miss this bike dearly. Nothing much has changed, except for a reinforced exhaust bracket, and I might peel off some worn stickers. All the graphics are vinyl race car decals, so you can peel them off and do as you wish with the finish, currently the bike has a decent black paint job with no major flaws.
I'm looking to move onto new builds, as well as free up storage room. It pains me to sell this bike because its my first motorbike, and I've poured toms of work into it to make it just as I wanted. I can't justify having so many motorbikes and can't move forward until I gain some working space and have some cash for the new builds so I gotta say goodbye, and hopefully find a new owner who's local and will cherish the bike as much as I do.
Here's a list of specs:
Engine
-Martin & Slater KTM50 Sr. Adventure 9 HP clone engine (currently at 12.5 Hrs running time)
*Cylinder head lapped and swirl polished
*note, one fin on cylinder head cracked and bolted in place, thermal mass is still there and it works as intended, but I can purchase and install a new cylinder head for the new buyer if desired, and lap and swirl polish it to match the performance of the current one. I intended to replace it eventually for aesthetics if I kept the bike, and I'll absorb the cost of the new head for the new buyer. The current bolted fin setup allowed me to use a meat thermometer to monitor head temperatures during the initial A/F tuning, because I was free to attach stuff to it since its not perfect externally.
*NGK-R Plug, Mercedes ultra low resistance silver/copper stranded plug wire and boot
*3 Shoe clutch sorted and tuned, doesn't make much dust at all, stays clean in the puck spring cavities, always consistent and reliable and grabs strong with one takeoff pump of the pedals or a push off. The way I have it geared the clutch does very little slipping so I bet it would last 5000 miles easy if used as a street bike. I'm really amazed at how proper dirtbike gearing makes the bike really come alive and accelerate like a motorcycle.
*Including coil type clutch springs, I bought them and never used them because the spring washer stack has worked so flawlessly. They are advertised as an option for lower clutch pickup, so if you would like to cruise flats and moderate hills with a lower stall speed to reduce noise, they are an option. Right now it's set up to not slip when climbing the steepest grades you can throw at the bike for extended periods, because excessively slipping clutch can cause thermal runaway. I have to climb 800-900 ft inclines at 25-30% grades, and the bike will do it no problem at the slowest going about 20 mph.
*KTM50 Sr Adventure expansion chamber to modified long poo silencer pipe with stainless packing. If you're cruising around at 25-30 mph the noise isn't so loud, its actually pretty mellow. Crack the throttle and it's 50cc GP time!
*Custom fabricated low profile rear exhaust bracket
*UNI foam air filter
*Broken in at 50:1 Ryobi/Lucas oil blend for ~2 Hrs, then run at 40:1 Lucas premix from then on, always run on 91 octane.
*Transmission filled with 250mL Redline D4 ATF, I highly recommend this oil for the wet clutch, I've ridden preety hard a lot, and the clutch still looks like brand new when I set it up and the oil stays clean, no puck clay at the bottom of the case or in the clutch springs.
Chassis & Brakes
-Custom fabricated engine cradle
-Custom fabricated brake master cylinder bracket
-Frame clearanced and reinforced at engine exhaust outlet and heat shielded
-Frame clearanced and reinforced at multiple areas required for the large rear sprocket and in anticipation of the 9 HP engine, and lots of fast riding. I reinforced the rear triangle as well as the seatpost to prevent fatigue cracking from high speed riding.
-NOS Suzuki K10 Forks, filled with Mobil 1 15W-50 - rides smooth as silk even at high speed, Headset greased with Mobil 1 red moly
-Honda Grimeca front drum brake motorcycle magnesium alloy wheel with drum brake hooked to clutch lever (lockable front brake with padlock if pin removed), drum brake pads still almost new since most braking done with the hydraulics. The Drum can be used for additional panic stopping power, in case somebody decides to cut you off.
-Rear wheel modified with hub mounts for large 80t sprocket and CRF50 rotor (will be set up as floating rotor for new buyer to resolve an issue I had with rotor offset to caliper), greased with Mobil 1 Synthetic red moly automotive wheel bearing grease.
-CRF50 front and rear scalloped brake rotors, Hydraulic front and rear brake systems. Front is lever actuated by right brake lever, rear is actuated by Yamaha R6 brake lever to horizontal master. Rear has stainless braided line, front is black rubber which matches the forks and prevents you from grabbing a handful of "over the handlebars", the brakes are absolutely incredible!
-Bottom Bracket relocated to the normal spot so you can pedal easily by welding in new bottom bracket into seat post/bottom tube intersection with reinforcement to handle 9 HP and vigorous pedal sprinting.
-Cruising pegs with rubber grips at standard bottom bracket location
-Both front and rear tires are 4.25 x 20 Innova Fat Cats with new Schwinn Stingray tubes with special ATV slime, balanced even at 60 mph.
-Suspension seatpost adapted to chopper seat to take the nutshots out of pothole hits, this and the front fork and fat tires amke this bike ride truly like a Mercedes-Benz, nothing phases its composure or comfort.
-Tank cover and fairing plastics, and Polini tail cone all custom fitted for the racer look without all the weight. All plastics are quickly removable for service.
-Custom brushed aluminum fuel tank straps
-Custom brushed aluminum gas tank filler neck bezel
-Custom fuel cap from rad cap, got rid of the endless spinning failure of the stock cap. Ventilated quite a bit so the tank never generates vacuum when accelerating hard, which can cause starvation. The in-tank filter was also removed and a large clear external filter fitted for flow assurance.
-Mercedes and AMG Badges, lol it's the Merc of motorbikes! I used one for a mount for the ignition KEY, yes you can immobilize the bike by removing the key, and it also serves as a redundant kill switch and headlight switch selector.
-Motorcycle 13K Chrome analog tachometer (needs to be wired up)
-Digital tach/hour meter
-European cafe motorcycle headlight
-Front windscreen GP style fairing for keeping that visor clean and riding at high speed sitting fully upright, yes aerodynamics work
-Chrome lightweight motorcycle mirrors
-Italian chrome kill/turn/light switch, wired up to bicycle turn signal kit. Hydraulic front brake lever actuates bright red taillight.
-All hardware either 8.8 KPa + grade or stainless for safety.
-Bell saddle bag
-Cable driven Krate style speedometer
-6v AGM battery for headlight with charging plug
Drivetrain
-Rebel Gears 80t Hardcoated aircraft alloy rear sprocket (this allows the bike to accelerate properly, climb any hill, and preserve the clutch because it doesn't do much slipping away power into dust and heat.
-SBP ultra wide crank axle with 3 speed freewheel pedal crank - the option of a hybrid exists with this by simply 410 chaining an electric motor to the pedal sprocket, something I was pondering since there's room for an electric motor and 24v worth of batts under the frame.
-4" crank arms so you never dig a pedal around any corner, at any possible lean angle, the pedal gearing is such that you have sufficient leverage to take off or pedal uphill even with the short crank arms, which also allow the redundant pegs for cruising normally.
-KMC nickel plated 415H engine drive chain, the only chain you'll ever need if cleaned and oiled periodically.
-KMC nickel plated pedal side singe speed chain, again, a lifetime chain.
-Pirate Cycle tensioner sprocket, solidly mounted to welded frame bracket.
-Chain tension tweakers
The bike is registered and plated, so you don't have to worry about that. I will be preparing the bike to be ridden without any initial servicing by the new owner, everything will be ready to go.
No flakes, Nigerian Princes, money orders, long distance shipping without verified pre-payment, NO BS PLEASE. I know it's a nice bike, and I will need good luck for the sale in this economy, so you can save the GLWS's so this thread stays somewhat organized please.
Ideally I'd like to sell this locally and hopefully make a new friend to ride with, I stand by my fabrication and service on this build and would be willing to help out a new friend with servicing it as long as you don't abuse the offer. As stated, the bike will be ready to rock and roll, and I have spare brake pads and other stuff that's for this bike I can include with the sale. I'll also include the 44t sprocket for racing/flat terrain, the bike will do 60+ mph with that sprocket but the hill-climbing and initial takeoff isn't good for being in car traffic. Test rides only granted with a M1 or M2 cert or license, helmet, and cash in hand. You break her, you bought her.
$1250 OBO. The bike weighs about 100 lbs and I am willing to disassemble and ship for the right buyer who pays for the bike and shipping in full.
Please only respond if you are serious, and try not to pick apart my build too much please.
Some of you may have seen this bike I've built over the past year or so;
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=42405
I'll post up some most recent pictures after performing the preparation for sale, I really want to take a bunch of shots anyways because I'm going to miss this bike dearly. Nothing much has changed, except for a reinforced exhaust bracket, and I might peel off some worn stickers. All the graphics are vinyl race car decals, so you can peel them off and do as you wish with the finish, currently the bike has a decent black paint job with no major flaws.
I'm looking to move onto new builds, as well as free up storage room. It pains me to sell this bike because its my first motorbike, and I've poured toms of work into it to make it just as I wanted. I can't justify having so many motorbikes and can't move forward until I gain some working space and have some cash for the new builds so I gotta say goodbye, and hopefully find a new owner who's local and will cherish the bike as much as I do.
Here's a list of specs:
Engine
-Martin & Slater KTM50 Sr. Adventure 9 HP clone engine (currently at 12.5 Hrs running time)
*Cylinder head lapped and swirl polished
*note, one fin on cylinder head cracked and bolted in place, thermal mass is still there and it works as intended, but I can purchase and install a new cylinder head for the new buyer if desired, and lap and swirl polish it to match the performance of the current one. I intended to replace it eventually for aesthetics if I kept the bike, and I'll absorb the cost of the new head for the new buyer. The current bolted fin setup allowed me to use a meat thermometer to monitor head temperatures during the initial A/F tuning, because I was free to attach stuff to it since its not perfect externally.
*NGK-R Plug, Mercedes ultra low resistance silver/copper stranded plug wire and boot
*3 Shoe clutch sorted and tuned, doesn't make much dust at all, stays clean in the puck spring cavities, always consistent and reliable and grabs strong with one takeoff pump of the pedals or a push off. The way I have it geared the clutch does very little slipping so I bet it would last 5000 miles easy if used as a street bike. I'm really amazed at how proper dirtbike gearing makes the bike really come alive and accelerate like a motorcycle.
*Including coil type clutch springs, I bought them and never used them because the spring washer stack has worked so flawlessly. They are advertised as an option for lower clutch pickup, so if you would like to cruise flats and moderate hills with a lower stall speed to reduce noise, they are an option. Right now it's set up to not slip when climbing the steepest grades you can throw at the bike for extended periods, because excessively slipping clutch can cause thermal runaway. I have to climb 800-900 ft inclines at 25-30% grades, and the bike will do it no problem at the slowest going about 20 mph.
*KTM50 Sr Adventure expansion chamber to modified long poo silencer pipe with stainless packing. If you're cruising around at 25-30 mph the noise isn't so loud, its actually pretty mellow. Crack the throttle and it's 50cc GP time!
*Custom fabricated low profile rear exhaust bracket
*UNI foam air filter
*Broken in at 50:1 Ryobi/Lucas oil blend for ~2 Hrs, then run at 40:1 Lucas premix from then on, always run on 91 octane.
*Transmission filled with 250mL Redline D4 ATF, I highly recommend this oil for the wet clutch, I've ridden preety hard a lot, and the clutch still looks like brand new when I set it up and the oil stays clean, no puck clay at the bottom of the case or in the clutch springs.
Chassis & Brakes
-Custom fabricated engine cradle
-Custom fabricated brake master cylinder bracket
-Frame clearanced and reinforced at engine exhaust outlet and heat shielded
-Frame clearanced and reinforced at multiple areas required for the large rear sprocket and in anticipation of the 9 HP engine, and lots of fast riding. I reinforced the rear triangle as well as the seatpost to prevent fatigue cracking from high speed riding.
-NOS Suzuki K10 Forks, filled with Mobil 1 15W-50 - rides smooth as silk even at high speed, Headset greased with Mobil 1 red moly
-Honda Grimeca front drum brake motorcycle magnesium alloy wheel with drum brake hooked to clutch lever (lockable front brake with padlock if pin removed), drum brake pads still almost new since most braking done with the hydraulics. The Drum can be used for additional panic stopping power, in case somebody decides to cut you off.
-Rear wheel modified with hub mounts for large 80t sprocket and CRF50 rotor (will be set up as floating rotor for new buyer to resolve an issue I had with rotor offset to caliper), greased with Mobil 1 Synthetic red moly automotive wheel bearing grease.
-CRF50 front and rear scalloped brake rotors, Hydraulic front and rear brake systems. Front is lever actuated by right brake lever, rear is actuated by Yamaha R6 brake lever to horizontal master. Rear has stainless braided line, front is black rubber which matches the forks and prevents you from grabbing a handful of "over the handlebars", the brakes are absolutely incredible!
-Bottom Bracket relocated to the normal spot so you can pedal easily by welding in new bottom bracket into seat post/bottom tube intersection with reinforcement to handle 9 HP and vigorous pedal sprinting.
-Cruising pegs with rubber grips at standard bottom bracket location
-Both front and rear tires are 4.25 x 20 Innova Fat Cats with new Schwinn Stingray tubes with special ATV slime, balanced even at 60 mph.
-Suspension seatpost adapted to chopper seat to take the nutshots out of pothole hits, this and the front fork and fat tires amke this bike ride truly like a Mercedes-Benz, nothing phases its composure or comfort.
-Tank cover and fairing plastics, and Polini tail cone all custom fitted for the racer look without all the weight. All plastics are quickly removable for service.
-Custom brushed aluminum fuel tank straps
-Custom brushed aluminum gas tank filler neck bezel
-Custom fuel cap from rad cap, got rid of the endless spinning failure of the stock cap. Ventilated quite a bit so the tank never generates vacuum when accelerating hard, which can cause starvation. The in-tank filter was also removed and a large clear external filter fitted for flow assurance.
-Mercedes and AMG Badges, lol it's the Merc of motorbikes! I used one for a mount for the ignition KEY, yes you can immobilize the bike by removing the key, and it also serves as a redundant kill switch and headlight switch selector.
-Motorcycle 13K Chrome analog tachometer (needs to be wired up)
-Digital tach/hour meter
-European cafe motorcycle headlight
-Front windscreen GP style fairing for keeping that visor clean and riding at high speed sitting fully upright, yes aerodynamics work
-Chrome lightweight motorcycle mirrors
-Italian chrome kill/turn/light switch, wired up to bicycle turn signal kit. Hydraulic front brake lever actuates bright red taillight.
-All hardware either 8.8 KPa + grade or stainless for safety.
-Bell saddle bag
-Cable driven Krate style speedometer
-6v AGM battery for headlight with charging plug
Drivetrain
-Rebel Gears 80t Hardcoated aircraft alloy rear sprocket (this allows the bike to accelerate properly, climb any hill, and preserve the clutch because it doesn't do much slipping away power into dust and heat.
-SBP ultra wide crank axle with 3 speed freewheel pedal crank - the option of a hybrid exists with this by simply 410 chaining an electric motor to the pedal sprocket, something I was pondering since there's room for an electric motor and 24v worth of batts under the frame.
-4" crank arms so you never dig a pedal around any corner, at any possible lean angle, the pedal gearing is such that you have sufficient leverage to take off or pedal uphill even with the short crank arms, which also allow the redundant pegs for cruising normally.
-KMC nickel plated 415H engine drive chain, the only chain you'll ever need if cleaned and oiled periodically.
-KMC nickel plated pedal side singe speed chain, again, a lifetime chain.
-Pirate Cycle tensioner sprocket, solidly mounted to welded frame bracket.
-Chain tension tweakers
The bike is registered and plated, so you don't have to worry about that. I will be preparing the bike to be ridden without any initial servicing by the new owner, everything will be ready to go.
No flakes, Nigerian Princes, money orders, long distance shipping without verified pre-payment, NO BS PLEASE. I know it's a nice bike, and I will need good luck for the sale in this economy, so you can save the GLWS's so this thread stays somewhat organized please.
Ideally I'd like to sell this locally and hopefully make a new friend to ride with, I stand by my fabrication and service on this build and would be willing to help out a new friend with servicing it as long as you don't abuse the offer. As stated, the bike will be ready to rock and roll, and I have spare brake pads and other stuff that's for this bike I can include with the sale. I'll also include the 44t sprocket for racing/flat terrain, the bike will do 60+ mph with that sprocket but the hill-climbing and initial takeoff isn't good for being in car traffic. Test rides only granted with a M1 or M2 cert or license, helmet, and cash in hand. You break her, you bought her.
$1250 OBO. The bike weighs about 100 lbs and I am willing to disassemble and ship for the right buyer who pays for the bike and shipping in full.
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