Breaking Loctite Help Needed

Fulltimer

Fulltimer

New Member
I know this is covered but I'll be @$#%&*()_) if I can find it! I wanted to remove my sprocket from the motor side of the bike. I must have put Loctite on the treads because the set screws won't budge. I even tried hitting the Allen wrench with a hammer...nothing!

How can I break them loose?

Terry
 
Terry,
Are you talking about the rag joint bolts or do you have a sprocket adapter?

Heat will help but you'll need to be careful. If its an aluminum adapter you'll need to apply heat but not so much as to damage the adapter.
There really is no effective solvent that will penetrate Loctite after it has cured. I've heard some say that Brake Cleaner will but I've never tried it. I'm doubtful that it would wick into the threads.

According to Loctite, heat is the most effective way to loosen the grip of their product.

Tom
 
gentle heat sounds good and there are allen sockets that fit a hand impact driver (to use the impact, you might want to 'buck up' the adapter to keep it from sliding across the hub away from you)
 
Tom, it is the aluminum sprocket adapter. I think I'll try heating the Allen wrench and let the heat gravitate down into the set screw. Besides the sprocket adapter I have to watch the spokes. They are steel but coated with clear powder coat, as are the rims.

I was afraid that heat was going to be the only option. Crap!

Thanks guys!

Terry
 
Was the Loc-tite the blue or the red?

I was wondering as I was thinking of using the blue (supposed to be removable) on the set screws on the pulleys that use keyways and set screws of my motor bike.

MT
 
Fulltimer said:
I must have put Loctite on the treads because the set screws won't budge. I even tried hitting the Allen wrench with a hammer...nothing!

How can I break them loose?

Terry
Click to expand...
I have had this happen and I don't think loctite was used.

Use a little mechanical advantage and put a long close fitting
cheater tube over the allen wrench and put some muscle on it.

When it comes loose it will sound like a gun going off.

Make sure that the allen wrench isn't rounded over at all.
You don't want to strip the fasteners out.
 
I guilty of doing that also, but using a FULL FACE SHIELD!

I have the ball end allen wrenches and they are on the long end. I use them for hard to reach places. The short end did not give enough leverage, so I put a pliers on the short part and had lots of torque. It actually bent the allen wrench for a moment and then makes a snap sound and releases the set screw. The allen wrench did not keep the bend in it, but made temporarily about an 1/8 of a turn. Sort of scary.

I would use a new set screw afterward even if the allen wrench did not round it off as the end of the set screw you really do want to hold very tight. A new set screw should have the shape that grabs and an old one would be worn too much. The cost of the set screw is not much cost considering something spinning at high rpm.

The crankshaft pulley clutch turns max at about 3500rpm.

My thoughts anyway.

I'm going to get a thread in the end of the crankshaft to use with underside flat washer to shim, flat washer, and split lock washer that self tightens as the engine rotates. This in addition to the set screw.

MT
 
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I like the ball-end Allen wrench too but I never try to put much torque on them. They're great for tight or angled places but the ball can slip if you really put some muscle behind them and the wrench or fastener is even slightly worn.

I use Allen sockets. I have metric and SAE sizes and use a 3/8" ratchet handle or a torque wrench to turn them.
Granted, getting into a tight space can present some problems but I can torque my sprocket adapters with them, even through the spokes.
The trick is to buy a quality set. Not some cheapy from the so-called tool stores that sell only imitations of real tools.

Tom
 

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When i need to break locktite I use a impact screwdriver, so far it has worked for me every time.
 
Fulltimer said:
Tom, it is the aluminum sprocket adapter. I think I'll try heating the Allen wrench and let the heat gravitate down into the set screw. Besides the sprocket adapter I have to watch the spokes. They are steel but coated with clear powder coat, as are the rims.

I was afraid that heat was going to be the only option. Crap!

Thanks guys!

Terry
Click to expand...


HI,

You'll need to do it the OTHER way.....Don't try heating the set screw itself (that will cause the part to expand and wedge in TIGHTER)...try heating the area immediately surrounding the set screw.

A mechanic friend of mine told me that one.

Hope it helps you

Andrew

PS - FWIW it generally takes MORE heat than you think to get stuff to break free BUT I do understand your concern for not messing the adapter up....Good luck
 
Fo'sho' the melting point of aluminum is just over 1200 degrees F. You won't need that much to loosen the loctite. The melting point of blue is around 300 F, even the red melts at around 400 F.
 
Bikeguy Joe said:
Fo'sho' the melting point of aluminum is just over 1200 degrees F. You won't need that much to loosen the loctite. The melting point of blue is around 300 F, even the red melts at around 400 F.
Click to expand...

That goes in my file. Thank you sir.
 
Woah! Tom I had it in my mind that you had advised me to use blue thread lock on my rear hub? Was that a specific thing, or is my mind going already?...
 
Use quality tools and know your materials. I have used products like these for years along with professionally turning wrenches for a living.
 
Trey said:
Woah! Tom I had it in my mind that you had advised me to use blue thread lock on my rear hub? Was that a specific thing, or is my mind going already?...
Click to expand...
Trey, you have me confused with someone else. I do not use thread locking products on my bikes and never suggest that others do.

I like nylon lock nuts for things like fender braces and chain guards and I replace the stud and nuts with Allen head cap screws on the engine and mounts. I use a torque wrench, check the torque after a few miles and I don't have things working loose or falling off. Maybe I'm just lucky but Loctite doesn't get used on my bikes.
Tom
 
I would be buying a new Morini engine crank for my hybrid ''very often'' with out the use of lock tight. It has it's ''true manufacture's'' intended purpose where I use it.

For the Happy Time motors well those engines are just plain comical to me. lol

Folks that weigh very little and ride are on a different scale than some others. A work truck wears out from a working hard. Stuff does and can rattle loose.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/basic-thread-concepts


Quote: Cycling component manufacturers sometimes use an "aerobic", or "dry" thread-locker for their products, such as on brake caliper bolts. This compound acts primarily as thread filler. If the part is removed, the compound tends to break down, so use a liquid thread-locker to supplement.

Loctite® 222- a low strength threadlocker (water bottle cage bolts, etc.)
Loctite® 242- a low strength threadlocker, but stronger than the 222 (good general use threadlocker)
Loctite® 246- a medium strength threadlocker
Loctite® 290- a medium strength thread
locker, with low viscosity wicking properties
Loctite® 266 high strength threadlocker
Loctite® 270 high strength threadlocker
Loctite® RC603 retaining compound (for poor press fits)
Loctite® RC609 retaining compound (for poor press fits)
Loctite® RC680 retaining compound, high strength, large gap ability (for poor press fits)


No nubee will ever know their materials. It is a given... in light of such they need to know what they are doing?? IMHO anyway. Shoot as 2D says mebbe they should steer clear of it all together. As for me I will use it for its proposed intended manner.
 
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