Maytag Flyer
- Thread starter Whozawhat
- Start date
Thanks for the comments.
Truckd; I am 6'2" with a bad back, I don't want to have to hunch over much, that is the reason I went with a cruiser style rather than a racer.
I have been considering making or modifying a set of Triumph style P clamp risers though.
The build portion still has a ways to go yet.
Color scheme is still undecided, however something with grey is still in the lead.
Doesn't matter too me if there are alot of grey colored replica bikes. Mostly they are not up here in Canada
Truckd; I am 6'2" with a bad back, I don't want to have to hunch over much, that is the reason I went with a cruiser style rather than a racer.
I have been considering making or modifying a set of Triumph style P clamp risers though.
The build portion still has a ways to go yet.
Color scheme is still undecided, however something with grey is still in the lead.
Doesn't matter too me if there are alot of grey colored replica bikes. Mostly they are not up here in Canada
"STAR, STAR, STAR, STAR, STAR!!!"
It's so rich an authentic looking you feel like you traveled through time. The paint color choice standing in front of it in person don't look to easy to decide either. The details are so many. Excellent work.
It's so rich an authentic looking you feel like you traveled through time. The paint color choice standing in front of it in person don't look to easy to decide either. The details are so many. Excellent work.
Sorry to confuse you with boardie style bars but I was actually talking about the stem/goose neck, it would only lower the bars about 2'' you'd still have the cruiser(they are out site!) just thought the style would look better then the wald press metal stem, you could still raise or lower it to you personal comfort range,the bike is beautiful though and you haven't made any bad decisions building it.
Grey with a darker accents is cool too but most often they're just Gray with no real accenting definitions, there is an endless posibility range with color, nothing about your bike is of the ordinary so try not to settle for an ordinary color scheme.
Grey with a darker accents is cool too but most often they're just Gray with no real accenting definitions, there is an endless posibility range with color, nothing about your bike is of the ordinary so try not to settle for an ordinary color scheme.
I was not confused between the bars and the stem/goose neck, just stating that my personal reason for building a cruiser over a BTR envolved a handlebar height consideration,,
and 2" can be alot sometimes.
A Varsity neck is indeed a nice part.
However I find that the long handlebars create alot of torque on a wedge fit stem and even if tightened by a gorilla it can twist.
For the investment in a Varsity neck I think I would be better off with a pair of risers that sit tall enough to let the handlebars clear over top of the stem nut.
It would require narrowing the handle bars by a bit to remove the center bulge where neck currently clamps but I may yet do it.
This Black Hawk is a grey/blue that is not bad.
and 2" can be alot sometimes.
A Varsity neck is indeed a nice part.
However I find that the long handlebars create alot of torque on a wedge fit stem and even if tightened by a gorilla it can twist.
For the investment in a Varsity neck I think I would be better off with a pair of risers that sit tall enough to let the handlebars clear over top of the stem nut.
It would require narrowing the handle bars by a bit to remove the center bulge where neck currently clamps but I may yet do it.
This Black Hawk is a grey/blue that is not bad.
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Those handle are too cool to cut check a sting ray stem similar to that wald stem but solid and stylish.
I like the color scheme on the BlackHawk, you could just about pick out any color for accents
I like the color scheme on the BlackHawk, you could just about pick out any color for accents
The handlebars have were created by cutting up two sets of bars and rearranging the parts. Then they were cut shorter, then they were lengthened.
One more time through the saw and across the welding table won't make any difference now. Not saying it is going to happen, still may change the neck.
One more time through the saw and across the welding table won't make any difference now. Not saying it is going to happen, still may change the neck.
Some prewar stems for girls bikes aren't as deep front to back and are pretty similar looking to ones used by a lot of early motorcycles. They’re very common too.
I like the Blackhawk colors!
General rule of thumb- Light colors like white, cream, light grey, etc... will make the bike seem larger.
-Kirk
I like the Blackhawk colors!
General rule of thumb- Light colors like white, cream, light grey, etc... will make the bike seem larger.
-Kirk
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Do you us a plug when welding the handle bars back together ? I actually have to get a pair extended back and I worry about the welds breaking if I hit a rough spot.
While doing a web search over the last hour for a riser idea I found something that may solve my problem for $4.73 plus shipping. If it works out I'll post pics for sure.
One problem with using vintage stems is the size, I need 22.2mm.
Thanks, that's good to know.
Is that 22.2mm on the bars or stem ? never meassured the stem on a Schwinn stem but my bars on all by bikes are 22.2mm and I don't run any thing but Schwinn, not so much for astetics but rather for the 
of mind knowing that there is some strength on a part that probably gets more use then any other component probably the only part directly linked to the brain (LOL!)
of mind knowing that there is some strength on a part that probably gets more use then any other component probably the only part directly linked to the brain (LOL!)
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If you don't have a mill, lathe, or maybe a metal extrusion press and you buy beer in cans** when bottles are not available then there is an answer to making shims.
I made a cheapo shim initially until I got a BMX four bolt stem clamp for the 22.2mm on my old high rise handle bars. Those have no problem tightening secure.
Later I did the same thing when the kill switch button strap was too long for the 22.2mm size diameter handle bars. I cut up 4 strips of a beer can and electric taped around the bar to make the right diameter.
I do know that there normally would be no ground for the push button kill switch with the aluminum can being internally plastic coated, but I made adjustments for that.
There are a pair of wires being one from coil and the other from the laminations on the coil that run to the switch and are soldered. For extra safety I added a toggle switch in parallel and I used external star tooth lock washers everywhere.
** Schlitz 60'e era formula beer in 12 pack cans I can get in California, but have to go to Nevada to get it in bottles for a nice icy cold Lager
MT
Seeing Truckd's comment below: I remember I got a seat post shim for another bike from a shop and expect the shims for stems would work much the same.
I made a cheapo shim initially until I got a BMX four bolt stem clamp for the 22.2mm on my old high rise handle bars. Those have no problem tightening secure.
Later I did the same thing when the kill switch button strap was too long for the 22.2mm size diameter handle bars. I cut up 4 strips of a beer can and electric taped around the bar to make the right diameter.
I do know that there normally would be no ground for the push button kill switch with the aluminum can being internally plastic coated, but I made adjustments for that.
There are a pair of wires being one from coil and the other from the laminations on the coil that run to the switch and are soldered. For extra safety I added a toggle switch in parallel and I used external star tooth lock washers everywhere.
** Schlitz 60'e era formula beer in 12 pack cans I can get in California, but have to go to Nevada to get it in bottles for a nice icy cold Lager
MT
Seeing Truckd's comment below: I remember I got a seat post shim for another bike from a shop and expect the shims for stems would work much the same.
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22.2mm is on the stem, some are 21.1mm
Even with a 22.2mm stem it still can twist with the long bars a little too easily.
The only store bought stem shims I have seen so far are 28.6 to 25.4mm or 1" to 1 1/8". They are too big to go from 21.1 to 22.2mm
I will try shimming the 22.2mm stem I have now, if it works I may get a Stingray gooseneck, if they are 22.2mm.
At the same time I have ordered the $4.73 risers (or what will become risers) so I can go that route also.
Even with a 22.2mm stem it still can twist with the long bars a little too easily.
The only store bought stem shims I have seen so far are 28.6 to 25.4mm or 1" to 1 1/8". They are too big to go from 21.1 to 22.2mm
I will try shimming the 22.2mm stem I have now, if it works I may get a Stingray gooseneck, if they are 22.2mm.
At the same time I have ordered the $4.73 risers (or what will become risers) so I can go that route also.
You can also run a thin bead of weld on the center gripper of the bars then file as needed to accomidate any size difference, sounds like you got all the options and alternatives covered.
If you do go with a Schwinn stem and it has a light surface rust just get some wood bleach at the local hardware store, mix a batch up and let it soak for a few hrs with a light scrubing with a tooth brush and it will come out like brand new!
If you do go with a Schwinn stem and it has a light surface rust just get some wood bleach at the local hardware store, mix a batch up and let it soak for a few hrs with a light scrubing with a tooth brush and it will come out like brand new!
On a 1" diameter steering post with a 22.2mm stem the wall thickness of the steering post is thinner than a 1" steering post using a 21.1mm stem.
The thinner wall steering post is easier to deform by the wedge than the thicker walled steering post.
I am concerned that I am at the point of starting to stretch and deform the steering post.
That would not be a good thing.
I need to pull the front end off and examine the post before anything more is done with the stem.
If I do go with a different stem and it is rusty all the better.
The thinner wall steering post is easier to deform by the wedge than the thicker walled steering post.
I am concerned that I am at the point of starting to stretch and deform the steering post.
That would not be a good thing.
I need to pull the front end off and examine the post before anything more is done with the stem.
If I do go with a different stem and it is rusty all the better.
I'd bet with your skills you could make one better than you could buy, and it would look great.