Maytag Flyer

truckd said:
Thought I'd steel a corner of your thread with these pic's of the May tag v twin washer machine engine,don't know the year?
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It is a custom built V Twin http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31164


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Some one say brass head badge, this is the guy I get mine from
Terry [email protected] Terry does XLNT work at affordable prices.you can check him out on facebook as well
 

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Terry did the brass head badge for my Indian Hiawatha tri-car. He's honest, reasonable and a fine artisan.Give him a design and he'll make it.
SB
 
I know I might be asking too many questions about your seat but with the price I had to pay for leather.
The seatbase pattern did you put the paper around the edge on the bottom or drape the paper over the foam.Sorry I just don't wanna cut my leather too small.
 
Judging from the wide range of fine work done thus far, I’m guessing Whozawhat will make his own brass badge...

And it will end up looking great too! :-)

-Kirk
 
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YES badges theres a sheet metal supply near my house once I got a sheet of copper like 4ftx4ft I still have that and use from it sometimes. those are nice badges terry does. DRACOTHERED the 5th pic from the top of the V twin, the block body is sitting on a hard drive ? It shure is small if it is. I bet there sweet running. Excellent work Whozawhat.
 
Sinistar said:
YES badges theres a sheet metal supply near my house once I got a sheet of copper like 4ftx4ft I still have that and use from it sometimes. those are nice badges terry does. DRACOTHERED the 5th pic from the top of the V twin, the block body is sitting on a hard drive ? It shure is small if it is. I bet there sweet running. Excellent work Whozawhat.
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Yea it isn't that big from what I can see. Here is another picture from the link above that I got the other five pictures from.

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The part to the right is the original engine block just like on the Maytag Flyer.
 
Mr. B.

You are correct. I will try to make my own brass etched badge.

It is another thing I have yet to try but am willing to give it a go.
Already gathered up the materials needed.
May even try a couple of test pieces this weekend on some round brass tags about 2" in diameter that have been sitting in a box for about 20 years.
Picked some suitable circular designs off of the net to use as testers.

The actual Maytag design will take a little work before I will know if it can be used for an etching.
I need to get the positive and negative images sorted out for the etching.
 
oquinn said:
I know I might be asking too many questions about your seat but with the price I had to pay for leather.

The seatbase pattern did you put the paper around the edge on the bottom or drape the paper over the foam.Sorry I just don't wanna cut my leather too small.
Click to expand...


Normally my grumpier self would say, " How is it that because you bought pricey leather I have to answer questions?"

But I am not too grumpy right now.:D

First I must say that this seat was the first that I have ever done. I am not an upholsterer or leather worker.

I have never seen a seat done the way I did mine.

I just thought it through and figured I could get a good result doing it in the manner that I did.

Your results may vary.

I placed the seat pan on the tracing paper and drew a perimeter line slightly larger than the pan.
This was done to give a little extra material to account for the curvature in the seat pan.
The amount that the pattern was slightly larger than the seat base will vary depending on how thick the foam is, how it is installed and trimmed, and how your particular seat pan curves.

How thick your leather is will also count when you factor in how stretchy it is or isn't.

This is because getting the pan slid inside the two pieces requires some tugging.
The shape of the seat pan is also a factor in how easy it is to get inside.

I can also see that if the pattern is drawn to tight to the seat pan it would make a finished product that is really difficult to get the pan inside.

As it was with mine I had to make a couple of small cuts to open the underside panel to get the pan slid inside without tearing the leather by stretching it open.

Maybe try making a tester piece using some old denim blue jeans, or go to the local Salvation Army store and buy an old leather jacket or ladies handbag for cheap to get something to experiment with.

Good luck.
;)
 
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Hey! Whoza
When yer in a much more Cheerful mood ? can we get a full side shot pic of the bike with all the goodies you've added lately it would be real nice to see it all in one shot, even though yer not done yer bike is always a pleasure to gaze upon.
Thanks!
Oh! and by the way can you supply the geometric circumfrance on the hexigon bolts you plan to tighten with the 52mm langston Gangly side torque phileon wrench? (LOL!) Ha! Ha! Ha! but seriously!
 
Presently my 52mm langston Gangly side torque phileon wrench is out at the calibration shop.

Therefore I must use my backup 32 bit Binford Rayo-Rama Digital/Analog Conversion Osciliscope to view the torsional stress applied to fasteners which have a dodecahedron shaped head which has geometric circumference of exactly 26.32mm +/- 4 parsecs.

The geometric circumfrance on the hexigon bolts will have to wait for the next project when the phileon wrench is back.



:D
 
truckd said:
can we get a full side shot pic
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My flywheel is out getting the magnet recharged, when it comes back next week I will be doing a full mock up before I pull the engine out for the rebuild and test stand runs.

Can shoot a couple then. Right now the front end is apart for a mod.

Still have a few other things to make yet and pant load of detail work.

However I may have to set the whole build aside for a few weeks to do some renovation work to keep the wife happy.
 
Yes! the wifey must be taken care of first,hence a few delay's have come about during my build as well, some guys call it Pv$$i whipped but thats ok! those guys usually don't have a wife and their girlfriend doesn't hang out for long. (LOL!)
 
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