And telling me to shut the **** up wasn't harsh?Wow that was harsh...BBB...The OP was just helping thats why he started the post. Ya know he does build these bike every day and makes a living do it, that says alot right there...
And telling me to shut the **** up wasn't harsh?Wow that was harsh...BBB...The OP was just helping thats why he started the post. Ya know he does build these bike every day and makes a living do it, that says alot right there...
So about a hundred dollars difference for what I would call a basic build, but I do think there really should be a couple upgrades. One I think is a must and that is the rear sprocket with an adapter. I don't agree with the idea of sandwiching the spokes to mount the rear sprocket. The others are up for debate as to what would make it truly trouble free mostly.Sure, and I'll round up and include everything but the tools to build it.
$200. 2011 Skyhawk delivered
$170. Macargi Touch Bike including sales tax local, a little less on-line.
$30. Pair of C brakes and cables, no levers local.
$35. SBP front mount, dual pull brake lever, and NGK BPR7HIX Iridium plug delivered.
$8. Can of high temp black motor paint and some zip ties local.
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$443. And that is high ball with no breaks on anything and what I use as my base parts cost and why I sell the completed bikes for $550.
But like GearNut and many others here I have the luxury of time, parts storage space, and capitol to take advantage of sales when they come along and never spent that much for this particular build as for example an $8 can of high temp paint will do 5+ bikes and big bag of zip-ties even more but there you have it, under $450 if your shop consists of nothing but the tools in your kitchen 'junk drawer'.
Catch the sales, and it is Prime Time for sales for another couple of weeks, and like I did cut a lot off that price and the whole point of my sharing this ;-}
wowa! bean go back a re-read thread #3.
The whole reason this thread got started was because kc exchanged several private messages wherein he attempted to convince me not to recommend cheap walmart bikes to people. I told him that I would recommend and give advice as I saw fit, and if he didn't like that, I didn't much care. After that, this thread popped up. He really doesn't want anyone offering an opinion that differs from his own. Even in his private messages he kept saying thanks for seeing my side, like he automatically expected me to agree with him. Its unfortunate if you don't like people disagreeing with you, but this is a public forum and people are entitled to offer their own opinions even if they differ from yours. Now I'm getting ready to build a 98cc Lifan on an American made Schwinn cantilever frame, because hey, I picked up the frame for $25. But I still dont see anything wrong with Walmart bikes. There have been several members installing 99cc Predators in them, and if its good enough for a predator, it most certainly is good enough for an HT engine. I'll say it again. Any bike is only as good as its mechanic. If you're not a good mechanic to start with, you can learn, or you can build something easy. Up to you.wowa! bean go back a re-read thread #3.
I was reading the specs on the Micargi Touch, and it stated the spokes were 14g. I know my Huffy Cranbrook spokes are 12g. Since I am new to all of this, which would be the better choice for the spokes? I paid $73.31 delivered for the Cranbrook from Walmart. Did I make a mistake buying this bike? This will be my first build.Like I said, I'm saying nothing more about the 2 stroke/4 stroke thing. I will mention my HUFFY, all steel, 12 guage spokes, nice welds, heavy duty bike frame. Now I'm pretty sure the Micargi is put together the same way. Well, except for the seat. But I've already done a post about the plastic Micargi seat pan.
I don't think (my opinion only) aluminum frames are a good idea for a motorized. The Huffy and Micargi frames are both steel and a good choice for, (should I say it?) a CHEAP build. I think the Micargi line are cooler looking frames, but a better frame? Who's to say one or the other is better? KC likes the Micargi, I like the Huffy, Mainly because of price. If I had an extra $50 or $100 when I was buying my bike I might have bought a Micargi, Just cause they look cool. But just so ya know. If ya buy a Micargi, ya gotta buy a good seat to go with it.
fatdaddy.
12 guage spokes are thicker than 14 guage. Thats another reason I picked the Huffy, Heavy duty steel wheels with 12 guage spokes.I was reading the specs on the Micargi Touch, and it stated the spokes were 14g. I know my Huffy Cranbrook spokes are 12g. Since I am new to all of this, which would be the better choice for the spokes? I paid $73.31 delivered for the Cranbrook from Walmart. Did I make a mistake buying this bike? This will be my first build.
Thanks,
Thanks for the info on the spokes. Yeah, I was thinking about the brakes as well. With this being my first attempt, I'm not sure of what can, and can't be done, and was wondering about adding either a disc or center pull brake to the front wheel. Still need to learn a lot about all of this.12 guage spokes are thicker than 14 guage. Thats another reason I picked the Huffy, Heavy duty steel wheels with 12 guage spokes.
But so ya know. Neither the Micargi OR the Huffy come with anything but coaster brakes. Ya gotta figure out better brakes. Coaster brakes SUCK at 35mph.
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
Yea when it comes to spokes the smaller the number the thicker the spoke. This is based on wire gauge and with wire gauge the wire size always gets bigger with a smaller number.Thanks for the info on the spokes. Yeah, I was thinking about the brakes as well. With this being my first attempt, I'm not sure of what can, and can't be done, and was wondering about adding either a disc or center pull brake to the front wheel. Still need to learn a lot about all of this.
Of course disc or drum is best. I had calipers on mine at first. They worked, just too weak, wiggley and cheesy. I finally put a set of suspension forks with the cantilever bosses for my front brakes. The one inch threaded fork tube is not common though, most everything is 1 1/8". Just start looking on craigslist or at your LBS for a good, new or used set of 1" threaded forks with the bosses. I had some solid Schwinn forks on it for a while because they had the cantilever bosses. The suspension forks make a world of difference in the ride quality.Thanks for the info on the spokes. Yeah, I was thinking about the brakes as well. With this being my first attempt, I'm not sure of what can, and can't be done, and was wondering about adding either a disc or center pull brake to the front wheel. Still need to learn a lot about all of this.
I have a Fuji Cambridge mountain bike with a suspension fork that I was thinking I could switch to the Cranbrook, but from the sound of it that might not work.Of course disc or drum is best. I had calipers on mine at first. They worked, just too weak, wiggley and cheesy. I finally put a set of suspension forks with the cantilever bosses for my front brakes. The one inch threaded fork tube is not common though, most everything is 1 1/8". Just start looking on craigslist or at your LBS for a good, new or used set of 1" threaded forks with the bosses. I had some solid Schwinn forks on it for a while because they had the cantilever bosses. The suspension forks make a world of difference in the ride quality.
fatdaddy.
I don't know what size fork tube the Fugi is. Like I said, yer gonna need a 1" for the Cranny. As I recall the length on it is about 6 1/4". Don't give up on the better brakes though, It took me three forks,The original forks, (calipers,) The Schwinn solid, (cantilevers,) Then the cheapo Rebound forks,(suspension w/cantilevers,) to get what I wanted on my Cranbrook.I have a Fuji Cambridge mountain bike with a suspension fork that I was thinking I could switch to the Cranbrook, but from the sound of it that might not work.
Again, this is my first build, and more of an experiment for more knowledge of these motorized bicycles. I'm guessing I will enjoy it a lot and will wind up building a "custom" that will include all the preferred components as my second.
I'll have to take some measurements on the Fuji. By the way, I believe it's actually a "Hybrid" if I remember correctly. It doesn't have the larger mountain bike tires, or the thin road bike tires.I don't know what size fork tube the Fugi is. Like I said, yer gonna need a 1" for the Cranny. As I recall the length on it is about 6 1/4". Don't give up on the better brakes though, It took me three forks,The original forks, (calipers,) The Schwinn solid, (cantilevers,) Then the cheapo Rebound forks,(suspension w/cantilevers,) to get what I wanted on my Cranbrook.
And yeah, This thing is addicting, You WILL build more than one bike. So far I've built about 6 personal bikes and 60 or 70 customer bikes. And I don't care what ANYONE says, I think you made a GREAT choice with the Cranbrook. (What color did ya get?)
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
This simple sentence sums everything up just fine. Everything else is a matter of preference for anyone.and once again just what I found works for best for me for the money
Thanks for the tip on the tires. Hadn't thought about that, but it makes a lot of sense.(many posts since I've been back, missing mom drama but we found her alive last night and she'll be OK).
Just to address a a couple of points:
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Bullet Proof Tires: Not one of my stock build items but something I offer and do to every bike I'll be riding.
Though expensive (~$25 a wheel) they make a world of difference, HD tube and a good liner at least on the back wheel will save you a world of grief if just do when you have wheel off to mount the drive sprocket and really, trust me on this one too ;-}