Meet Stunner

GoldenMotor.com

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
Well..
The following bikes I have owned and they all used a normally open kill switch that closed when you pressed down on it or switched to off:
Hodaka Ace100
Honda MR175E
Bultaco Alpina 250
Montessa Cappra 250
Honda 250R threewheeler
Yamaha XT500
Yamaha YZ400
Yamaha DT400
Yamaha YZ490
Honda CT70
Kawasaki H2
Suzuki TS175
Yamaha DT175

I am sorry that you are not happy with the Fly kill switch.
They do function in a common method and look really good.
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
83
Dallas
Well..
The following bikes I have owned and they all used a normally open kill switch that closed when you pressed down on it or switched to off:
Hodaka Ace100
Honda MR175E
Bultaco Alpina 250
Montessa Cappra 250
Honda 250R threewheeler
Yamaha XT500
Yamaha YZ400
Yamaha DT400
Yamaha YZ490
Honda CT70
Kawasaki H2
Suzuki TS175
Yamaha DT175

I am sorry that you are not happy with the Fly kill switch.
They do function in a common method and look really good.
Wow that's some list. I guess they're more common than I though. I don't trust them with these chinese mag coils. I had 3 fail this summer in about 6 weeks time. It was averaging about 105 degrees every day at the time. After I unhooked the kill switch I didn't have a failure after that, but it started getting a little cooler about that time too. Only 100 after that. Maybe it has to be really hot to kill them.

At any rate, this SBP switch isn't a momentary switch. It's either open, or closed. I wired it in series with the black wire, instead of parallel to the black and blue.. Now the bike will run when the switch is closed, and kill, when I open the switch.

There's no way that can hurt anything.
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
83
Dallas
Ready to ride.

Gemme spark, gemme fire, gemme what I desire.
 
Last edited:

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
83
Dallas
Today is the big day when I finally fire it up for the first time.

I learned a lesson last night. I thought that since black leather streamers look great on the Atomic BB, and looked real good on the Cadillac too, naturally they'd be even mo better on this bike.

Wrong, they just didn't work at all. And the stock hand grips weren't doing anything for me either. As soon as put them on it, I knew right away something wasn't right. I kept trying to tell myself I'd get used to the look.

I gave up at 4:00 in the morning I went out in the garage and fixed it. It turns out the grips I originally bought on eBay look a lot better, and actually work better than I thought. And no streamers. For some strange reason the black leather streamers that I love on my other bikes, just don't get it done on this bike. Maybe red ones. Just kidding lol.

It looked kinda like a guy in a tuxedo, wearing sandals lol.
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
83
Dallas
Success!!

It fired right away. Took about 4 trys to keep it running though. I went around the block a couple times to warm it up, and then adjusted the idle. It's quiet and so far smooth. As expected, the exhaust noise level is about identical to the Atomic BB, which is very quiet. The engine mechanical noise level is also exceptionally low. That makes both of the Flying Horse motors I bought from BikeBerry this summer seem about the same. My first impression of the motor is good, and it was the same with the other one too. I've already got almost 1500 miles on it's twin, in the Atomic BB, and it still runs like new.

It ride's pretty good. Right off the bat, it's smoother than the Cadillac. The ride is not rough at all. It feels like these big tires absorb the road a lot better than the skinny 1.95s the Cadillac had. Even with suspension forks the Cadillac was a lot rougher. I think part of that was also the tiny frame it had, but the tires probably make the biggest difference.

It feels like this bike will be a real nice town bike when it gets broken in, and tuned.
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
83
Dallas
I've been out riding most of the afternoon. All I can say is this bike is the shizznit. It's far beyond anything I've experienced so far in motor bicycling. I don't have a speedo yet, but I've probably ridden in total about 8 or 9 miles now.

That's more miles than I've ridden it since I bought it in July. These tires absolutely ride soft, compared to any of my other bicycles. Only the Atomic BB with it springer forks rides softer, but only by a little. And maybe not even that.

I could tell the gearing is a little shorter than the Atomic BB even though both bikes have a 36T. The 24" wheel does make a difference. I'll probably eventually look for a 34T or maybe even a 32T.

What I beginning to notice is how solid a Felt is compared to a low end Kent bicycle. The handle bars have a very sturdy, motorcycle like feel. They're 31mm at the clamp, and the threadless stems really are a lot stronger. This is my first bicycle with a threadless neck on it.

Riding at speed, the whole bike feels, and sounds solid, but the ride isn't harsh like the Cadillac was. Of course I'm not going very fast yet, probably 20-25 mph so far.

We're not in Kansas anymore toto. I don't think I'll ever be able to go back either.
 
Last edited:

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
83
Dallas
Cool.

There is a reason that people buy Felt, Giant and Trek.

They're worth it - :)
I believe that, now. My other bike, the Atomic BB is a really good bike, but the poor thing is just out classed. There's just no way for even a championship high school team to compete with a pro team.
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
83
Dallas
I calculated my gearing today, rpm to speed. It's not as bad as I thought. 30 mph would only be about 6100 rpm. 34 mph is 7000 rpm. 26 mph would be an easy 5300 rpm.


Stunner
36T sprocket
24x3 tire 76.625 circumference
The overall ratio is 14.76


RPM MPH
1000 4.9
1200 5.9
1400 6.9
1600 7.8
1800 8.8
2000 9.8
2200 10.8
2400 11.8
2600 12.7
2800 13.7
3000 14.7
3200 15.7
3400 16.7
3600 17.6
3800 18.6
4000 19.6
4200 20.6
4400 21.6
4600 22.6
4800 23.5
5000 24.5
5200 25.5
5400 26.5
5600 27.5
5800 28.4
6000 29.4
6200 30.4
6400 31.4
6600 32.4
6800 33.3
7000 34.3
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
83
Dallas
I've got about 45 miles on it now, and I've suffered 2 failures. Yesterday I was going for a ride and got about 50 yards from the garage and the tensioner wheel fell off. I was just starting the motor at the time so I was going slow. I thought something was wrong, and looked down and noticed the power side chain was loose, but it hadn't fallen off the sprocket. I was able to retrieve the star wheel and spacer just laying in the middle of the street, not far behind me, but I couldn't find the screw. I take blame for that failure. I guess I didn't tighten it enough.

The second failure wasn't my fault. I've never had a problem with pedal side before, but tonight I did. I was riding across town, and was about 7 miles away. As I was starting to pedal away from I light, suddenly I felt the chain slip on the pedal side. That was big suprise to me, because it's never happened before. I stopped and looked at the chain. Nothing? I tried it again, and it slipped again. I was thinking this is crazy, that can't happen it the chain isn't loose, can it? Well it was happening. WTF!! At that point I decided to turn around and head home without trying to pedal much. I got about a half mile and the pedal chain fell off. What the f in%$^&@# I rolled onto the sidewalk to take a closer look. I had a flashlight, an allen wrench, a 10mm open end, and a phillipshead screw driver, and a plastic coated cable lock.

What I found was that the rear pedal chain sprocket had fallen off the hub. Close inspection revealed that this sprocket is held on by a threaded ring, that came unscrewed. The rear hub is a cheapy Shimano E110 clone. I thought it was exactly like the other ones I have on my other bikes, where the sprocket is held on by a wire clip in a groove. A foolproof method that never fails. That's why I wasn't concerned with it, and didn't give it any attention. Big mistake.


so now I'm 6 1/2 miles from home, and I can see what the problem is, but I can't get my fingers in there to the threaded ring to screw it back on, because the frame is in the way. I tried for about a half hour to get the ring screwed back on using the phillipshead, and allen wrench, but that got me nowhere. So what I did was push the sprocket into place, and I used the plastic coated cable lock to wrap around the in between the sprocket, and the frame. It was just tight enough fit to hold the sprocket in place and keep the chain on. I still couldn't pedal it, but I could motor it home, and just paddle it away from stops with my feet. That's how I made it home. You got to love dual independent drive.

I don't have the special tool to tighten the ring on, so I'll have to use the old hammer and screwdriver method. I'm going to red locktite that sucker.
 

dracothered

New Member
Jul 25, 2012
973
1
0
Howell, MI.
I've got about 45 miles on it now, and I've suffered 2 failures. Yesterday I was going for a ride and got about 50 yards from the garage and the tensioner wheel fell off. I was just starting the motor at the time so I was going slow. I thought something was wrong, and looked down and noticed the power side chain was loose, but it hadn't fallen off the sprocket. I was able to retrieve the star wheel and spacer just laying in the middle of the street, not far behind me, but I couldn't find the screw. I take blame for that failure. I guess I didn't tighten it enough.

The second failure wasn't my fault. I've never had a problem with pedal side before, but tonight I did. I was riding across town, and was about 7 miles away. As I was starting to pedal away from I light, suddenly I felt the chain slip on the pedal side. That was big suprise to me, because it's never happened before. I stopped and looked at the chain. Nothing? I tried it again, and it slipped again. I was thinking this is crazy, that can't happen it the chain isn't loose, can it? Well it was happening. WTF!! At that point I decided to turn around and head home without trying to pedal much. I got about a half mile and the pedal chain fell off. What the f in%$^&@# I rolled onto the sidewalk to take a closer look. I had a flashlight, an allen wrench, a 10mm open end, and a phillipshead screw driver, and a plastic coated cable lock.

What I found was that the rear pedal chain sprocket had fallen off the hub. Close inspection revealed that this sprocket is held on by a threaded ring, that came unscrewed. The rear hub is a cheapy Shimano E110 clone. I thought it was exactly like the other ones I have on my other bikes, where the sprocket is held on by a wire clip in a groove. A foolproof method that never fails. That's why I wasn't concerned with it, and didn't give it any attention. Big mistake.


so now I'm 6 1/2 miles from home, and I can see what the problem is, but I can't get my fingers in there to the threaded ring to screw it back on, because the frame is in the way. I tried for about a half hour to get the ring screwed back on using the phillipshead, and allen wrench, but that got me nowhere. So what I did was push the sprocket into place, and I used the plastic coated cable lock to wrap around the in between the sprocket, and the frame. It was just tight enough fit to hold the sprocket in place and keep the chain on. I still couldn't pedal it, but I could motor it home, and just paddle it away from stops with my feet. That's how I made it home. You got to love dual independent drive.

I don't have the special tool to tighten the ring on, so I'll have to use the old hammer and screwdriver method. I'm going to red locktite that sucker.
I would just stick with blue Locktite as you may need to service the hub sometime down the road.
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
83
Dallas
Today I fixed the pedal sprocket. No damage was done. One reason I couldn't get it back on last night was because today I figured out the lock ring is reverse threaded.

A pair of needle nose pliers in the slots on the lock ring fit well enough to screw it back on pretty tight. I used the red to keep it from coming off again. Red won't be a problem, you never need to unscrew the lock ring unless you want to change the sprocket, which I'll never want to do. Your can take the hub apart without removing the lock ring.

Then I proceeded to ride another 20 miles with no further problems.

 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
83
Dallas
Stunner is starting to rock my world. Now I have people that have been telling me for 2 years that there's no market for motor bicycles choking on their own words, and now telling me I need to start making these to sell.