2 stroke engine

Mine did that before (stall when giving it throttle). It turned out to be an air leak between the carb and manifold tube. Putting the rubber o-ring in there cured it.
 
happycheapskate said:
Mine did that before (stall when giving it throttle). It turned out to be an air leak between the carb and manifold tube. Putting the rubber o-ring in there cured it.
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I have the CNS V2 crab. I got rid of the plastic spacer and made one out of copper. I have been playing with the floats a little. Right now my floats hit the bottom of bowl. If I pull the floats higher, the crab doesn't get gas and it won't start. thanks
 
If you attempt to build a motorized bicycle without any clue of the many signature problems, ie; tank mounts, electrical issues, the right frame, the right axle bearings, the know how, the mechanical aptitude of how, good luck with that! If you think it is just as easy as following instructions like on some type of Revell model for ages 6 & up, good luck with that too!
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If I have discribed you and what you are trying to do, you might want to stick with store bought slowped & remember to wear a helmet! (one thing more dangerous then a motorizedbicycle, is a misguided motorizedbike builder
 
switch to a NGK plug if you hav'nt already! and or replace the plug. I had a plug in from last season, and this season it run good until it got hot and then lost power, I replaced the plug with a new one and wa-la back to normal and no loss of power. I believe about 50-60 hours on a plug is pretty good before having to replace.
 
Guess what, I found a air leak. It's around the Crab, copper spacer and Manifold. Iam trying to seal it right now. I Hope it works. And ready for the next problem.
Thank you all who help me. I have learn a lot from you people on here. I know I will have more questions later.
 
Good to hear you found the leak because the very lean condition can burn the piston, if you made the copper spacer with too small of a gap for compression onto the intake try fileing it out a little.
 
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flmotorbikes said:
You might need a new 10 cent rubber seal. That's exactly what I needed When I came across this problem
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You are probably right. Every thing eles on this kit doesn't works right or needs to be change. I think this needs to be recommend to everyone who gets the CNS carb. Thanks
 
I got another problem. When I ride my bike for more then 5 minutes, I feel like my engine starts losing power. A whole lot of power. But I notice that my fuel line filter bowl, is empty. So that means thats my engine need gas. I then turn off my engine, and ride with my fuel line open. To get gas in the bowl. Then I start my engine. And it rides like a beast. Ride nice, just needs a little tuning. Until my fuel line and filter go empty.
I have a CNS V2 carb. I have taken the little black hoses off the carb. I have try riding it with the tank cap loose. Also my floats in the carb are hanging all the way down. Also if I disconnect my fuel Line, it will pour gas. Thanks. usflg
 
It sounds like the carb is not venting enough, the hose that goes to the back of the air cleaner is the vent check it for a blockage. I tried once on mine to close it off and my bike ran out of gas, fuel would not flow into the carb fast enough.
 
Bikeguy Joe said:
Maybe the screen in the tank is clogged up?
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Thanks, I check the screen and it was very dirty. I guess I should had clean the tank. I just look inside the tank and since it look clean, I left it like that. But it is never clean. Everything inside, starts to fall apart.
Also the gas shut off switch, is cheap. There is barley any room for gas to go threw. ST8 junk. Thanks .bld.
 
Empty the tank, take the tank off, and remove the petcock. Take it to a coin-operated car wash or use a pressure washer, and blast all that crap out of there. Let it sun dry for a day. Install a tank sealer if you use one, and use a petcock from Sick Bike Parts (best) or go to a boat shop or MC shop and find one.
 
happycheapskate said:
Empty the tank, take the tank off, and remove the petcock. Take it to a coin-operated car wash or use a pressure washer, and blast all that crap out of there. Let it sun dry for a day. Install a tank sealer if you use one, and use a petcock from Sick Bike Parts (best) or go to a boat shop or MC shop and find one.
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Thank you, Iam going to have to order a better gas switch. Whats a tank sealer. Thanks
 
I'm not certified in anything, and I think this is a great question.. But I do want to say that if you light a match to fuel vapor it ignites everywhere the vapor is.. Unless the amount of, pressure, or type of fuel changed I can't see what or how any difference a "longer" plug would do. Plus wouldn't you feel more comfortable with the extra comfort zone? Good Times!
 
Hoze513 said:
Thank you, Iam going to have to order a better gas switch. Whats a tank sealer. Thanks
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If you don't want to use a sealer ($$$) then right after you spray the tank out, shoot some WD40 in there and swish it around. After you leave the tank in the sun for awhile to dry, filling it with fuel SHOULD keep the rust at bay.

They get rust in them from sitting around for a time, then sitting around on a ship going across the salty ocean, where they ten sit on a dock in a container for awhile.
 
I have had to seal old motorcycle tanks that had pin holes and rust. I used a safety solvent and small gravel and shook it over and over to break as much of the rust loose as possible. I bought the sealer at the local m/c shop. We ran that bike for three years after sealing it with no leaks.
 
Tank sealer is a name for various chemicals and brands that coat the inside of a tank against rust. Some are like plastic, some are more like a clear-coat of sorts.

I agree you probably don't need any, but some people like them.
 
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