1900s Vintage Style Build

[cannonball2]

This is what happens when you have left over parts-I always seem too. Been wanting to build an MB that was styled loosley around the earliest MBs/MCs This is the result. This one is a sit up putt-putt, not a board tracker. Am limiting top speed to the low 20s, just want to ease around on it. Uses an old Robin 5hp L head from the late 70s Im thinking. A real sweet smooth engine from a TroyBilt tiller. Has been shaved down to the bare essentials with the fins turned off the exposed flywheel. There is no starting method except by pedaling(no rope). Is just about finished build wise with a few more details. Will be light grayl I disassembled, painted, and re-laced the rims, they are the color it will be. Will get some more pics outside when it stops raining.

 

[Dan]

Lookin' awesome CB!

 

[Motorbikermark]

I like it! Sweet looking vintage style. Can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[cannonball2]

Thanks guys! Just kind of easing this build along. Its getting close to running. Im bad to finish a bike then ride it and not finish paint it. This one will get painted! The PVC tank hasnt got much inherent beauty.

 

[Mr.B.]

+1!

I like the old stuff!

-Kirk

 

[silverbear]

Very cool. Will want some more details about your engine and clutch setup. T=It' going to look good in grey.
SB

 

[curtisfox]

AWESOME love the old look and old style.............Curt

 

[ground zero harley]

I am new to this web sight , I bought a 1915 indian board track racer ( at least I think thats what it is .) it is a replica, it has a 2 stroke motor in her and looks good. I will try and post some pictures of it. I live in las vegas and already my wife want s me to get rid of it. I cant upload a picture . Why Not?

 

[curtisfox]

This is what happens when you have left over parts-I always seem too. Been wanting to build an MB that was styled loosley around the earliest MBs/MCs This is the result. This one is a sit up putt-putt, not a board tracker. Am limiting top speed to the low 20s, just want to ease around on it. Uses an old Robin 5hp L head from the late 70s Im thinking. A real sweet smooth engine from a TroyBilt tiller. Has been shaved down to the bare essentials with the fins turned off the exposed flywheel. There is no starting method except by pedaling(no rope). Is just about finished build wise with a few more details. Will be light grayl I disassembled, painted, and re-laced the rims, they are the color it will be. Will get some more pics outside when it stops raining.

How did you do it? cut the frame,and whatever else you did tell us how?..........Curt

 

[cannonball2]

Thanks guys!

Mr.B., I use your build as a constant reference, especially on finishing. I had planned the "veteran" look for this bike. but might chicken out. Just dont know if I can pull it off. I believe it will come more into its own when painted, Then maybe I will gain the courage to "work over" a new paint job.

SB, the clutch is just an idler type. Used a good idler from my wifes Hyundai timng belt system that was replaced on interval. The clutch engagement system is a model of simplicity and works well. Just pedal, engage and off you go. I will post a pic.

I fabbed all the pedal conversion parts(wide crank spindles, sprocket, etc.) to get the width I needed. I also laced in a sprocket hub I bought off ebay. Was a pretty good deal@ $34 Its fairly common, but I had not used one. Pretty neat, has a lot of ability to position the sprocket where you want it. Even has sealed bearings Also has a drum/band brake. I had one on a Gen 2 Whizzer that worked very well but was some what of a squeeler. This one should be sufficient for the low speeds of this bike in conjunction with the good engine braking it will have.

 

[cannonball2]

Curt, This was a MTB frame I had laying around. Discarded everything fwd of the seat tube. It has been stretched to about a 54" axle length, using some thick walled scaffolding tubing salvaged from my neighbors junk pile. Uses an old Murray head tube for the rake I wanted. I havent measured the trail yet but it has to be a lot. The bike had to be very stable at low speeds since that is where it is designed to cruise which it is. I wound up with a bit more top tube slant than I wanted, but that what you get when assembling odd parts. The fork is an old Hawthorne that has been trussed using a Schwinn truss mount. The shork neck tube got the truss angle a bit further out than I wanted- once again odd parts. The fuel tank was threaded in the general discussion forum. I mounted the jack shaft on retaining collars. Allows perfect positioning. Once found the rear of the collars are welded to the seat tube. Actually in my starting tests(a pretty good loading) it hasnt moved yet, if it will hold unwelded it will allow both belt and chain adjustment if moveable. The bars are bent from EMT and cross braced. Couldnt fine any production bars with the shape I wanted. The cables run inside the bars to a set of inverted Velosolex controls-brake and throttle. I guess those are the high points.

 

[cannonball2]

Silverbear, here are some pics of the clutch set up. Nothing unusual, just simple. Easily engages by pulling the handle back against the ramp, The handle has a limited anount of flex, once past the ramp it pops over and locks. To disengage just push it side ways and it returns to its fwd stop. The small guide at the bottom front of the belt holds the belt up out of the front pulley when disengaged and idling eliminating creep. Plan to cut off the crankshaft when all is finalized.

 

[cannonball2]

Here are a few misc. pics of the build. The jackshaft mounting collars are bearing retainers. Makes positioning and alignment a snap. The tank mounting. Rear hub. and a form of keel under the engine for strength.

 

[silverbear]

Simple, straight forward and pretty well bulletproof. Nice.
SB

 

[rustycase]

Exactly what silverbear said.

Good job, CB2 !
Should be a lot of fun!
rc

 

[wayne z]

Very impressive! Great use of available hardware. I like what you did with the shaft collars.
Does the idler work well on the drive side of the belt? Most idler clutches I've seen and used were on the slack side.

 

[pocdragon]

i enjoy classic motorcycles that are essentially motorized bicycles more then any other

i dont care for the large handel bars, but i do love the way you flipped the levers, i had to do that on my first wasp bike you can really cram alot of levers on a 10speed curly handelbars

 

[cannonball2]

Thanks guys!
Wayne, I placed the idler on top mainly for starting. It forces the driven part of the belt in that mode(the bottom) to firmly grab the engine pulley over a large area, the lower part of the belt is of course in a pull mode and this extends its pull to maybe 270 degrees. Needed a lot of area to turn the engine over with such a small pulley. It may be a bit grabby on powered engagement, dont know yet as I havent run it, but it sure will spin the engine. If its a bit quick on the engagement I will just pedal faster, quite a work out with the small front pedal sprocket!

pocdragon, thanks for the + comments. The bars are basically a period thing. A lot of MB/MCs of the area had a long axle spread, couple that with a set back seat and the long straight back bars make sense. Looks like the proper Victorian(read moral) riding stance was upright only the nefarious BTR riders and holligans would dare to ride bent over, I have to watch my image!-lol!

 

[rustycase]

lol
yah, I'm with the dragon... the swept back tiller bars are way too much fun.
but if you want to get a full victorian effect... ???
they are definitely 'period' !

and wayne caught the idler flip... and I hope this will help with your reason for it.


Peugeot decompression valve 7 bucks +

https://www.treatland.tv/peugeot-decompression-valve-set-p/peugeot-decompression.htm

honda and many other manufacturers use them on various models.
the peugeot was the cheapest I saw, was a complete mechanism, and looked interesting.

I wouldn't think it a difficult task to drill a flattie cyl head to tap for installation.

probably the other needed refinement (complication) would be variable timing.
Some way to have an adjustable plate in there would be great for starting.
...and it would be period!
I have yet to see a variable timing plate, probably because the clearances are so tight.

Thanks for the great post CB2! Gives me another opportunity for armchair engineering! I'm gonna see about getting me a walker today. Being 'planted' is driving me nuts!

Best
rc

 

[cannonball2]

Thanks RC! Maybe the upright riding position comes from our English forbearers. The sitting positions on old Triumph, BSAs, etc was reffered to "sit up and Beg". I probably need a suit, tie, and top hat to be really correct! Ive seen BTR riders wearing a tie! What a grand period!

Thanks for the link on the compression release. That one is more proper looking than the more modern looking chain saw units. Looks like it might could be cable operated. Would be way cool to use it to slow down with! There is an internal valve lift kind in the engine. I had thought about an external also, certainly would add some charm to the build. Something cool to mess with!