Best Frame Style For A 212 Predator?

[Dirt Road Cowboy]

Well, it looks like I'll be doing a Predator build soon, and I was wondering what style frame works best with the 212 engine?

Does it fit better in a cruiser style, or does it make any difference?

I would like to have some kind of suspension on this build, but a shock absorbing seat post and front suspension can always be added.

So, what have you guys gone with?

Thanks!




.

 

[The_Aleman]

No offense, but if you're undertaking such a build, maybe you should already know the answer to that question

 

[andrewflores17]

id say riders prefernce for me i did a 99cc predator and iam barely able to squeak it into my gary fisher mountain bike .

typicaly though i think with a cruiser you will get much more room to play with and fit the 212cc engine into . scotto posted some pics of a 49cc and 212cc side by side so you can get a good visual of the dimsensions of such a engine .

handlebars shocks seat post can all be changed to suite you and your style .

 

[buck0]

I had a macargi beach cruiser frame sitting around that I picked up for $25 bucks. It's in the 4-stroke section ( I believe on page two), under magriders first 4-stroke build.

 

[scotto-]

There are a few things to think about when choosing a frame for this engine. The best answer would be to build a frame from the ground up (like ccc) to fit this engine and be strong enough to handle it's power and torque.

You need a frame that is strong, roomy enough to get the valve cover off (to adjust the valves and such) without having to pull the motor and also be able to accomodate a tranny that allows for proper chain alignment.

You don't just stuff this engine into any frame it fits and not expect to do some fabricating. It's not your china kit that is versatile and installs rather easily. It's a motor that is as big as I will ever put into a bike and that's all I can tell you.

Good luck.

 

[Kiwegapawa]

Welcome To The Welding & Metalworking Forum

This all bring a few things to mind. Of a question I have. Like I've reported in a few threads here. I am an Arc Welder in long standing. But in those points of mig and tig welding, I believe I understand what's being done to the two pieces of metal are the same as Arc welding. Where in the weld is actually stronger than the metal. But in this Stretch Crusier Z2 Tank frame, I'm seeing much smaller beads. This of 3/16 and less down to 1/8th in the tight spots.

Within this my experience of seeing stress fractures adjacent to the weld in my younger days of my builds and my own welds. Ofcourse

after they'd been "beat on" excessively. These beads that were a quarter inch consistant, no gaps. This of 3-wheelers, Mini Bikes and go-Carts, where in they had the same size motor as the 212cc. But they were Briggs and Straton.

These beads are "fairly" good consistant welds (some gaps) on my Stretch Crusier Z2 Tank frame. But is this tight of a bead going to be something I should worry about? Or should I just power steal brush the factory paint job off and Arc weld these joints, again? I found out, Bicycles Designers doesn't build these themselves, their ordered. They do not know a bunch about them. I would like to be impressed with the welds, instead, I'm wishie washie about what I see.

Also in the point of the mention of shocks and such. This a good percentage of why this build will be going 3-wheel. 1st, the reason I went for the ForkKit-Springer Chrm 1-1/8 triple tree. (Bye the way, those ordering the simular from Chopper US. The emails are on their way to you. I called this morning as he was just sitting down to send them out. I was on the list

and paid for mine there and then.) Course with the point of the tranny in mind, still not sure which way I'm going to go. Could end with it being back at a jackshaft and two meshing roller gears. Is in that of the 3-wheel conversion kit itself. I believe it needs to be beefer than what I am seeing of what's available. Plus, the point where I do need rear shocks. So is appearing more and more, this is where my own creativity gonna havta kickin! Nothing on paper yet, but my mind is swirling with shock positions and what should attach where.


I'm totaly open to suggestions and another reason why I'm going at this build, at a snails pace! .

• ® © † Respectfully,.™,
• Aka;

 

[rustycase]

Wow.

I can't agree with Scotto more.

These bigger 4 cycle motors really do need a purpose built frame.

and I'd stretch the front, run a mtb suspension fork w/disk, and run a sprung seat like Nashmoto built. ...and a 24 x 3 rear wheel/tire with 12g spokes like GH talks abt.

lol! PLS don't use a peanut tank!

Best
rc

 

[culvercityclassic]

I am in the process of designing a frame just for that motor. Keep a look out for my post.

 

[Ibedayank]

I am in the process of designing a frame just for that motor. Keep a look out for my post.

for the 212 or 99? and will you use a jackshaft to solve the chainline issues without needing to move the motor off the bikes centerline?

 

[scotto-]

for the 212 or 99? and will you use a jackshaft to solve the chainline issues without needing to move the motor off the bikes centerline?

I'm sure it will be for the 212 and the clones of the same John, that's what he's been building

 

[Kiwegapawa]

Your silence is deafining

. Though I believe the structural engineering to be sound in that of being able to handle the torque of the 212cc. Especially seeing I'm looking for more low geared power than speed. Also with the point of the square tube used for the base of the frame. Here are the welds that concern me. Hugh difference in the Aluminum welds of my Trek 4300 and this Z2 STRETCH Cruiser frame. Or any welds I have done. I'm told this is steel. But this the only info I could get. Even though I told him I wouldn't hold him to the warranty. Course when I said that, I was thinking structual additions. Concern what I'll need to do with the trike portion and shocks. But in around the Crankset Yoke, as you see the small gaps I spoke of.

In the point of the tank portion, after drilling and taping the fulcrom tank whole I can do an air pressure test to make sure there are no close points of leak. Then of course cut for the bung and cap. Then take it to get the inside treated for gas tank use.(pictures next post.)

 

[Kiwegapawa]

These around the tank, don't bring me as much concern. Nor any other place. Short of around the Head, With the gage of exactly 100thousandths of an inch, Crankset Yoke's gage is 119thousandths of an inch. That's the only I can get into.

LoL, Come on guys, just looking for a confirmation on my thought's already. These are normal gages for a Bicycle Frame. It's just the points of the weld that concerns me, as I don't mig or tig. I mean, if this is Arc welding, I'm greatly concerned. Especially where the gaps are! It would be nice if Bicycle Designers had more info. So much for assumptions. Course worse comes to worse, I'd be watching the frame closely like I would anyhow.

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• Aka;

 

[old motorbike]

Hi, I'm back for a 4 stroke build this time. I've been using cag motors and haven't had success with reliability. Decided to go 4 stroke.

Built a Honda for a friend, they're a little pricey, but dependable and easy to start.
Went to buy a 99cc Predator for $139, but for $99 bought the 212cc that weekend.
Stripped my old bike, and it won't fit the frame (aluminum). Would need to notch the front bar and TIG in a mount. My friend owns a bike shop and he's looking for a steel frame bike for me as it will be stronger to modify.

I did get a clutch and plan to build a jack shaft setup. I'll need to find ratio numbers. Don't know what the rpm range will be on this motor. Don't imagine more than 2-5000rpm.
I know it won't be legal and will take my chances.

 

[Kiwegapawa]

This is the best that I could find that would fit. I ruled out using an Aluminum frame of my Trek 4300 even before I picked out a motor. This due to retempering the Aluminum. And in my option the bolt on (C-clamp configuration) with Aluminum is a point of an eventual dimple to crack fissure. There in ruining what are very expensive Bikes. I would have to send it away to be done after figuring out a mechanical configuration for it. Just too extreme in the expense department.

But from this photo, and being the smaller of the Stretch Crusiers you can see the 212cc eats the space up. As there is not motor mounts, nor jackshaft, electric start, wiring harness ect., ect., .... But loved the idea of the tank being in frame. I hope this gives your mind a better picture of the size in relationship of the HF 212cc.

Dirt Road Cowboy Best Frame Style For A 212 Predator?

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Well, it looks like I'll be doing a Predator build soon, and I was wondering what style frame works best with the 212 engine?

Does it fit better in a cruiser style, or does it make any difference?

I would like to have some kind of suspension on this build, but a shock absorbing seat post and front suspension can always be added.

Dirt Road Cowboy, please try not to pay attention to those, err this one who believes its ok to look down his nose at people. I find what he said to you very rude and abusive. This forum is meant to share information, there in a point of learning. And believe me, no one has it all down!

I gotta speak in the point of information shared and those who apparently get real rude. Doesn't make much sense to be on a forum, then to deny info. Within doing so, to use a whip and a pistola? NOT!!! He did it to me not to long ago, but I got in his face about it. He said in a private message he would have me on ignore. Which works out for me, just fine.

old motorbike Re: Best Frame Style For A 212 Predator?
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Hi, I'm back for a 4 stroke build this time. I've been using cag motors and haven't had success with reliability. Decided to go 4 stroke.

Built a Honda for a friend, they're a little pricey, but dependable and easy to start.
Went to buy a 99cc Predator for $139, but for $99 bought the 212cc that weekend.
Stripped my old bike, and it won't fit the frame (aluminum). Would need to notch the front bar and TIG in a mount. My friend owns a bike shop and he's looking for a steel frame bike for me as it will be stronger to modify.

Its my belief that these larger motors is ment for steel. That is unless you personally have an Aluminum foundry at your disposal. I wish I did, lol! Good luck with your build Old Motorbike. Your's too Dirt Road Cowboy.

• ® © † Respectfully,.™,
• Aka;

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Well, it looks like I'll be doing a Predator build soon, and I was wondering what style frame works best with the 212 engine?

Does it fit better in a cruiser style, or does it make any difference?

I would like to have some kind of suspension on this build, but a shock absorbing seat post and front suspension can always be added.

So, what have you guys gone with?

Thanks!


.

I'm following this 212cc build and purchased that same Roadmaster frame.

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=34506&highlight=212CC

However, since HF reneged on my Predator engine purchase, I'm using a 6hp Robin engine.

Same build, different engine.