How do I remove outer bearing
- Thread starter johnloganb
- Start date
Re: outer bearing
The crankshaft bearings are removed/installed from inside the block (need to split block)
The clutch shaft bearings are removed/installed from outside the block.
The crankshaft bearings are removed/installed from inside the block (need to split block)
Re: outer bearing
That is the clutch shaft bearing. Line up the bearing in the retainer and use a socket that is slightly smaller then the diameter of the bearing and drive it in. Make sure the bearing is going in straight. Make sure that after you install the first bearing you install the clutch shaft before installing the second bearing. Use a bearing which is sealed on both sides. Do you have the bearings?
That is the clutch shaft bearing. Line up the bearing in the retainer and use a socket that is slightly smaller then the diameter of the bearing and drive it in. Make sure the bearing is going in straight. Make sure that after you install the first bearing you install the clutch shaft before installing the second bearing. Use a bearing which is sealed on both sides. Do you have the bearings?
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Re: outer bearing
If you are replacing the clutch shaft bearing, no heat needs to be applied. The shaft can be taped out, thus removing 1 bearing. To remove the other take a socket and extension/drift pin and tap out the remaining bearing (from inside the engine). I have never had to use heat removing a intact bearing. Once I had to use heat (cut the race off) on a bearing due to the fact that a inner wheel bearing wielded the inner race to the axle.
If you are replacing the clutch shaft bearing, no heat needs to be applied. The shaft can be taped out, thus removing 1 bearing. To remove the other take a socket and extension/drift pin and tap out the remaining bearing (from inside the engine). I have never had to use heat removing a intact bearing. Once I had to use heat (cut the race off) on a bearing due to the fact that a inner wheel bearing wielded the inner race to the axle.
Re: outer bearing
Bother for Common knowledge maybee?
i have a bearing squeaking and seems hard to pedal- I think it's the outer, and they don't seem to be at many of the vendor's sites.
Bother for Common knowledge maybee?
i have a bearing squeaking and seems hard to pedal- I think it's the outer, and they don't seem to be at many of the vendor's sites.
Re: outer bearing
Dang Kat I had my large gear off today to grease the ball bearings from the back side through the three holes, looked at the bearing but didn't look for a number. Looked like a 202 which has a plastic and rubber seal, if I have to change mine I'm. Going to use 6000 series bearings, they have the steel dust cover with the rubber seal.
Dang Kat I had my large gear off today to grease the ball bearings from the back side through the three holes, looked at the bearing but didn't look for a number. Looked like a 202 which has a plastic and rubber seal, if I have to change mine I'm. Going to use 6000 series bearings, they have the steel dust cover with the rubber seal.
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Re: outer bearing
Found a post that said four 6202 bearings total in the engine, so clutch shaft and crankshaft bearings should be the same.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=36334
Found a post that said four 6202 bearings total in the engine, so clutch shaft and crankshaft bearings should be the same.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=36334
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Re: outer bearing
prolly because your bucking bar and that one single little ball bearing is dry and needs greased? it is always the simple stuff first.These H.T. engines can come up with some interesting squeaking noises when those to parts are dry and screeching.
WOW! Thanks for this advice Herder!
I did what you recommended above, and put a healthy dose of heavy grease in the center of the sprocket on the bearing and packed around the "bucking bar"-(Are you sure this is the correct name for this part- the sites seem to have some descrepancy)
Anyway- WHAT A DIFFERENCE!
No more squeak- pedals SOOOO much smoother- This thing really rolls now- I'm going to do the other build before I take it out again.
I just figured it was the main bearing and went ahead and ordered that new chrome 66 from BFG that I've eyed for several years, and planned to put in a new main bearing after switching motors- just came today.
Now it's all cured- just did about 8 miles with no incident and the 27" wheels roll like a roadbike- I can hardly believe there's still a motor chain turning down there when I'm shut down. Still thoroughly recommend the 415 Trike chains- much quieter and less resistance- at least for on road use.
The chrome motor will be on the back burners for awhile- my 3 year plus old 66 is running GREAT!
I did what you recommended above, and put a healthy dose of heavy grease in the center of the sprocket on the bearing and packed around the "bucking bar"-(Are you sure this is the correct name for this part- the sites seem to have some descrepancy)
Anyway- WHAT A DIFFERENCE!
No more squeak- pedals SOOOO much smoother- This thing really rolls now- I'm going to do the other build before I take it out again.
I just figured it was the main bearing and went ahead and ordered that new chrome 66 from BFG that I've eyed for several years, and planned to put in a new main bearing after switching motors- just came today.
Now it's all cured- just did about 8 miles with no incident and the 27" wheels roll like a roadbike- I can hardly believe there's still a motor chain turning down there when I'm shut down. Still thoroughly recommend the 415 Trike chains- much quieter and less resistance- at least for on road use.
The chrome motor will be on the back burners for awhile- my 3 year plus old 66 is running GREAT!
