dakota47l1
New Member
ok my plug fouled tonight on the way home from work...i have a wire wheel for my dremel tool can i use it to clean the plug?its all i have that i can think of.
can't find an answer then ask here someone may be able to help!!
- Thread starter Norman
- Start date
dakota47l1
New Member
ok i figured out my problem today...took the fuel bowl off my NT and the jet came with it...any idea how i can keep it from unscrewing itself?...i'm surprized it ran at all!
GearNut
Active Member
Just re-install it and tighten it up only to a firm snug. Never ever torque down tight on a fuel jet. They are made of soft brass and get damaged easily. The factory is well known for not bothering to even snug tighten the jets when installing them at the factory. They seem to install them finger tight and after while they vibrate loose, drop out of the needle jet and engine no worky no more.
Al.Fisherman
New Member
ok my plug fouled tonight on the way home from work...i have a wire wheel for my dremel tool can i use it to clean the plug?its all i have that i can think of.
Throttle body cleaner or brake cleaner.
I'm having some problems getting to top rpm on my new engine. This is my 3rd build and on the first two right out of the box at wot the engines would run real nice and smooth and fast but with this new one it just doesn't quite go like the other ones. I've been riding it for a couple weeks now and its starting to get a little faster but still wont rev up very fast. any ideas why this could be?
Rocky_Motor
New Member
When do you check your spark plug? You have to check it after the engine has run obviously, but you don't want to pull the spark plug out when the metal is hot.. So do you run it real quick and then pull it out?
I wasn't sure if the plug would show accurately at that point.
I wasn't sure if the plug would show accurately at that point.
GearNut
Active Member
Install a new spark plug. Run the engine at the speed in which you are having problems. Hold it there for 1/2 mile to 1 mile. Shut the engine down and at the exact same time pull the clutch in. Do not let the engine run, coast or sputter at all or you risk contaminating the color print on the spark plug. It must simply shut down and not turn over at all.
Pedal to where you can let the engine cool down completely.
If the engine is hot when you remove the spark plug you risk taking the threads out of the soft aluminum cylinder head when you remove the spark plug (the threads are actually that weak).
Pedal to where you can let the engine cool down completely.
If the engine is hot when you remove the spark plug you risk taking the threads out of the soft aluminum cylinder head when you remove the spark plug (the threads are actually that weak).
Rocky_Motor
New Member
Oh, I'm not having any problems so I suppose I don't need to check. I thought it might be beneficial but I'll go with it for now. I still got to get a new spark plug anyway. Surprisingly this chinese one works pretty well for the time being.
I also seem to have a fuel leak problem. It see it around the bottom area of the engine. Not sure how it gets there, I saw some drip from the carb. Might be just the bad valve, I'm getting a new one from SBP
I also seem to have a fuel leak problem. It see it around the bottom area of the engine. Not sure how it gets there, I saw some drip from the carb. Might be just the bad valve, I'm getting a new one from SBP
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Rocky_Motor
New Member
So I was riding around some more today. Runs strong and pulls great. Gets a steep hill with no problem. The only concerning thing I have is I occasionally hear some kind of metal sound as if some piece came loose but it's all real tight still. Any idea what it could be?
I was thinking maybe the gears in the clutch cover. I was going to take it off and put a little bit of lithium grease on it when the motor cools down.
I was thinking maybe the gears in the clutch cover. I was going to take it off and put a little bit of lithium grease on it when the motor cools down.
Norman
LORD VADER Moderator
Rocky
The little bit of oil on the bottom of the engine is sometimes caused by the oil and fuel mix that will drip out of the air filter after shutting down the engine.
If you take the air cleaner off and watch the engine when it's running you will see a small vapor or mist come out of the carb. That is due to the engines pulses, with the filter on that mist goes into the filter and once it gets enough it will drip out. That will find it's way to the bottom of the engine, just one of the many ways these engines will make it's self dirty.
The metallic noise you hear could be the short rod and ball in the clutch getting a little dry of grease, once it does get dry it will scream with noise, sounds like a cat with it's tail under the rocking chair. that may not be the noise your hearing as it could be something else. Another could be the front screw that holds the small gear on the crank coming loose or some other thing that hasn't completely came loose,... soon will.
The little bit of oil on the bottom of the engine is sometimes caused by the oil and fuel mix that will drip out of the air filter after shutting down the engine.
If you take the air cleaner off and watch the engine when it's running you will see a small vapor or mist come out of the carb. That is due to the engines pulses, with the filter on that mist goes into the filter and once it gets enough it will drip out. That will find it's way to the bottom of the engine, just one of the many ways these engines will make it's self dirty.
The metallic noise you hear could be the short rod and ball in the clutch getting a little dry of grease, once it does get dry it will scream with noise, sounds like a cat with it's tail under the rocking chair. that may not be the noise your hearing as it could be something else. Another could be the front screw that holds the small gear on the crank coming loose or some other thing that hasn't completely came loose,... soon will.
Rocky_Motor
New Member
Well I took off the cover and felt around for any loose screws. There aren't many to begin with buut I didn't find any so I went ahead and put some grease on. Went for a ride and I haven't heard that noise since. Vibrations are pretty rough. I don't mind them, it's more than likely because the bike has no suspension to absorb it.
I think the only other things is that I definitely do have a gas leak besides the carburetor actions you mentioned. Either the valve, the filter, or both are leaking. I have the SBP valve on its way and then I'll probably put some clamps on the fuel line to prevent that. I keep losing it to the garage floor over the nights. Luckily I've only been putting 18-16oz at a time in.
I think the only other things is that I definitely do have a gas leak besides the carburetor actions you mentioned. Either the valve, the filter, or both are leaking. I have the SBP valve on its way and then I'll probably put some clamps on the fuel line to prevent that. I keep losing it to the garage floor over the nights. Luckily I've only been putting 18-16oz at a time in.
biknut
Well-Known Member
Always turn your petcock off when you're not riding.
Rocky_Motor
New Member
As far as I could tell the valve isn't turning off.. But I am fairly sure it is in the off position. I'll put some water in and see what I can find.
Disconnected from the engine at that point of course.
Disconnected from the engine at that point of course.
biknut
Well-Known Member
That's quite likely considering how crappy the stock ones are. I have a SBP valve and it's great.
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Rocky_Motor
New Member
Just waiting for mine in the mail
as well as the sound dampener items they offer.I'm still very jealous of your build there.. The chrome/silver on black is gorgeous. Not to mention the rebuilt aspect of it. My dad has a lathe in his garage. Maybe I should learn to use it... Could help in a rebuild sometime.
Norman
LORD VADER Moderator
For a hose clamp on the fuel line I use stainless steel safety wire 2 loops around the hose then it's twisted with wire pliers this will make a clean and neat installation plus leak free.
Twist it for about 1/2" in length then bend it over on the tip to put the sharp cut off end out of the way so it won't stab you.
There has to be a photo of my process some where on one of my posts I just don't know where right off.
Norman
YES do learn how to operate your Dad's lathe, machinery operation is a hoot plus like you said you can make your own parts!!!!
Twist it for about 1/2" in length then bend it over on the tip to put the sharp cut off end out of the way so it won't stab you.
There has to be a photo of my process some where on one of my posts I just don't know where right off.
Norman
YES do learn how to operate your Dad's lathe, machinery operation is a hoot plus like you said you can make your own parts!!!!
Rocky_Motor
New Member
Will have to clean out the garage soon then. There's tons of tools hidden underneath years of things getting piled up. Except our table saw (huge, it aint moving anywhere), drill press, sander/grinder thing, band saw, and any and everything you can think of that cuts wood. Most of which can be re purposed to cut metal with the right blade.
I have another question.. If you have replaced your studs with higher quality steel pieces, is there anything wrong with using duct tape or rubber between your mounts?
I have another question.. If you have replaced your studs with higher quality steel pieces, is there anything wrong with using duct tape or rubber between your mounts?
Rocky_Motor
New Member
I've put about 25 miles on so far. I noticed that my chain used to be very tight, about 1/2" of play on the top. But now it is muuch looser, maybe 2" of play? My chain tensioner hasn't moved so it must be part of breaking it in. I was wondering how long I can expect this to go on if at all before I can stop removing more chain links.