Woot just got my first dremel.

E

Elixys

New Member
I cant wait for all my parts to come in so I can get everything cleaned up at once. Just got my first dremel tool and will be extra careful not to screw everything up. so kind of rough surface on the intake port and glossy smooth surface on the exhaust. Ill gitter done. (5 day weekend coming up so should have plenty of time)
 
A dremel or other rotary tool is so handy for bike work. There are some jobs that would take much longer or be nearly impossible without it. To replace one I lost in a fire I bought a Chinese clone version of a name I can't remember. I believe Harbor Freight sells the same one. It is reddish orange and has a flexible shaft for getting in to tight places. Reasonably priced, it is holding up to my abuse so far. Whatever the kind, I have to have one in my bike tools. I don't have much beyond wrenches and screwdrivers, a grinding wheel and power drill, but ya gotta have a dremel!
SB
 
when i was into modifying nitro rc engines and playing with crank timing (doesnt apply here) i was the only engine modder to leave the inside surface of the crank (the intake tract) rough. everyone polished theirs to a mirror, which made NO sense at all. the rough surface aids fuel atomization and prevents pooling.
 
i just got some stones and paper for mine i was totaly siked till i found out it was faster to just use a file then clean up yht file burrs with the dremel

but i agree the dreml is neccasary for certain jobs im glad i have one
 
yep,took the smashed /jamed door off the nissan last sunday needed mine to cut the door apart to save the electrics lol
 
Hey Wild, try the carbide burrs,they will cut steel like butter,and last a long time . They are brittle though and will break if you let them chatter hard.

Wayne Z
 
i use those tiny sanding discs to clean up solder lumps on my copper tanks, and they work awesome. better than anything else i've tried.

the problem, is the discs don't last for more than a few minutes.

so, i made my own discs.

i use the wet/dry sandpaper from Ace, then put a strip of masking tape on the back.

trace circles onto them with a nickel, then cut them out with some old scissors.

then, when i put them on the dremel trip with the screw in it, i put a little polishing wheel on first so it gives it some soft support, then just push the screw through the center and tighten it on there.

they work better, last longer, and you can get a ton of them out of one piece of sandpaper.
 
The best bit of advice I can give about porting the engine with a Dremel tool is DON'T touch the piston at all, or the exaust & intake port hights at the piston!! (you can widen the ports a little at the piston.) The top & bottom of those ports (at the piston) control the timing of the intake & exaust & shouldn't be touched!!
The only thing you want to do is 'blend' the ports (case to cylinder) & the 'ports to manifolds' together for a smoother air flow without changing the timing (at the piston)!!! ;)
 
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Reviving an old topic:

Anyone know the best dremel bit for port matching my exhaust and aluminum exhaust gasket, I've got quite a bit of material to go through. Thanks!
 
Use a metal cutting burr. Most of the stones will clog if used on aluminum. Read the package. Dremel will tell you which cutting tool to use for what material.
Tom
 
Ok cool, at first I'm going to do the steel expansion exhaust then the aluminum gasket. I'm off to Home Depot tomorrow to get some inexpensive goggles and a couple of the cutting bits.
 
2door said:
Use a metal cutting burr. Most of the stones will clog if used on aluminum. Read the package. Dremel will tell you which cutting tool to use for what material.
Tom
Click to expand...
absolutely!
i am use to carving glass so i have a bunch of stones.
the first time i port matched it didn't look half as good as when i used a burr.

just be careful. when using the burr the aluminium peels away. so it makes more splinters compared to stones that make powder.
 
I use the solid carbide bits for port matching. Cuts steel manifold material like butter . You have to be carefull and not let it chatter much because they are brittle and will break very easy.

I tried using stones on the steel manifolds and the stone wears away nearly as fast as the metal
 
picked up a carbide bit and a multipurpose bit today on lunch and worked on the exhaust flange this evening. The carbide bit worked well but catches and chatters easily so I finished it up with the grinding bit. Next I used the mutlipurpose on the aluminum flange and it worked great. I put it all back together and wow, what a difference! Next up will be the intake tube.
 
I use a carbide bit in my die grinder, since I have a large air conpressor in the shop most all of my tools use air. You may find as I did the weld in the intake was very rough, after I cleaned all of that up I used fine sand paper to polish it.
 
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