bike makes strange noises

I think is was getting the same sound but wouldnt kno since we never got a vid or recording on it. I think the was from the pin that hold the piston rings cause my motor seized up a week later and here is wat it looks like when the head was pulled. notice the small hole punched thru the head gasket as well as wat i think is the pin that holds the rings. Going to take it apart to learn more. My sound was a very loud ping or tinging like sound coming from th top of the motor kand of sounded like a bell ringing. Didnt happen all the time but did make it a few seconds before it locked up. U can duplicate the sounds if u tap on the spark plug with a wrench. But notice that the spark plug was not hitting.

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I wish more people could give definitive sound descriptions like what you gave - though I also wish your bike didn't seize!

So far we know you need a new top end, but I hope it's not much more serious.
 
Ya I am going to tear into it tomarow. I found that my exhaust was leaking i think saw a little bit of oil by the exhaust port wen i pulled it off. But i got this whole bike from someone off the internet so dnt kno wat they did to it before i got it. The piston already had that much carbon on it wen i got it and it was tuned like crap. This was my first bike to learn everything i have and now i get to learn how to tear the top end apart.
 
Lol, top end's easy enough, hopefully everything below the piston is alright.

How long did you ride it for and "how used" (that you know of) was it when you got it?
 
That owner sais ii had less then a 100miles on it but the piston was prtty black already scine then i have put 600+ miles on it but i had it for 2 weeks before i got the speedo and kept track.
 
Someone's been inside that motor before. Those are Sick Bike Parts head studs.
The motor has regular nut fasteners instead of acorn nuts I'd bet.

It might be more used than you think.
 
I think it was more used then 100miles cause the piston has all that carbon on it plus it was the prev owner buit it to go to wrk wen they lost their license.
 
No it still has the crappy acorn nuts on it gonna replace them tho wen i rebuild the top end and i think the studs are the stock ones too cause wouldnt they have a grade or something stamped on them. So far I kno I need a piston,rings,studs(if they are stock),head nuts,gasket,jug, anything else that is recomended for a top rebuild after all this is my first one.
 
The piston is siezed into the jug so hard i cant get it off. I have tried banging it but it still won't come off so I can try to tell what went wrong.
 
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Can you see anything caught up in the ports? Can you remove the cylinder studs to allow you to move the cylinder and perhaps look up from underneath it?
 
Thanks Gear but I didn't see anything but I finally got the jug off. I had to get a bigger hammer. But didnt find the piece that was jamming it up. I tried shaking the case nothing, but did notice that the cranck shaft moves side to side about 1/4". Will post pics shortly.
 
ToxicAz520

I had an engine do this very same thing, what caused mine was that one of the pin/needle bearing on the crankshaft broke and a piece of it made it up through the transfer port, it hung between the port and the piston as it was moving upwards in the cyclinder after it had been bouncing around on top of the piston for a short length of time, I knew this because it had put a bunch of dings in the top of the piston before it hung between the piston & port, it knocked a chunk out of the jug and tore down the side of my piston and looked just like yours looks, new piston, jug, rings, gaskets, different crankshaft, new upper wristpin bearing, I had it running again and it was my strongest engine until last week when the crankshaft shifted toward the clutch side of the engine and caused my mag rotor to eat into the block and crank seal and kill this engine once again..........420 miles later

My advise is go through that engine with a fine tooth comb so to speak and make sure that lowerend is perfect before you even consider a rebuild, if the crank and rod bearing has any play in it or looks suspect, I suggest making it a parts engines for the gears, block, clutch parts, head. and then just buy a new engine from BGF/Luckyearlybird for about $78 and be done with the cooked one, you cant rebuild that old engine for $78 when you figure the time and trouble involved.

http://cgi.ebay.com/motor-motorized...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5531e8e6

Best wishes......

Peace, Shan


ToxicAz520 said:
Heres the Pics not the best but I tried if you need more or diff angles let me know.

View attachment 36136View attachment 36137View attachment 36138View attachment 36139View attachment 36140


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That pin on top the piston looks like a roller from the rod bearing. If your rod has that much sideplay, it's prolly from the lower rod bearing.
 
I agree with the bearing failure assessment. Unfortunately the bearings used in these engines are not the best out there, and no matter what type of lubricant was used, certain types of failures are unavoidable. Gotta love the Chinese quality control! :-{
 
thank a lot guys the assesment of the rod bearing make sense since i was hearing a load pinging before it seized up. i will ue it as a parts motor now
 
Yep mine made that pinging as well right before it bit the dust......

Peace & best wishes


ToxicAz520 said:
thank a lot guys the assesment of the rod bearing make sense since i was hearing a load pinging before it seized up. i will ue it as a parts motor now
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I am in the same boat as you guys. My best running motor seized yesterday. It was making all kinds of noise even at the death race, pinging was one of them. The top of the piston was pitted and the rings were broke, the needle bearings on the piston were gone.

Tried a piston from another donor motor and it still hangs up, it’s now a parts motor, this is the second motor to die in a month. Like they say the motor that ****s big don’t last long.
 
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