Has anyone baught from daemonbikes.com?

GoldenMotor.com

bfgmovies

New Member
Aug 28, 2010
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Statesboro, GA
Hey everyone, this is the first post I've created here, but I've been reading alot of what has been posted here over the last 4 months. I just wanted to know if anyone has purchaced any of the engines from daemonbikes and how they compare to other engines like the Grubee Skyhawlks. I've read alot of bad reviews about engines coming from gasbike but I've heard alot of good reviews about the engines coming from Bikeberry, however I've only seen a few posts on people who have built bikes from daemon bikes. The reason I an considering daemon bikes is because they offer free shipping and the engine kits only cost $140 vs. $180+$40 on Bikeberry.

Thanks!
 
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Goat Herder

Gutter Rider
Apr 28, 2008
6,237
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N.M.
While it is definitely true a guy wants to [should] buy from a reputable seller. All these motors came from Chinalaff
 

Goat Herder

Gutter Rider
Apr 28, 2008
6,237
20
38
N.M.
There's a newer batch of chinas coming out the ports are a bit cleaner is my guess. I have have good luck with the carb I got with an older kit . Works perfect.
 

bfgmovies

New Member
Aug 28, 2010
49
0
0
Statesboro, GA
Yeah, this is going to be my first purchace and I'm really low on cash (thanks to college) which is why I'm looking at the daemon engines but I really want my engine to last

While it is definitely true a guy wants to [should] buy from a reputable seller. All these motors came from Chinalaff
 

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,837
252
63
up north now
I don't care who sells it, just because it says Grube skyhog or what ever on it, doesn't necessarily make it better or worse than any other engine from China. You are kind of subject to the luck of the draw. I have heard good and bad from EVERY seller/manufacture of these engine kits.
 

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,837
252
63
up north now
Too many variables there....I have gotten them in less than a week, and as long as a month. Different sellers ship differently.
 

bfgmovies

New Member
Aug 28, 2010
49
0
0
Statesboro, GA
I emailed them about that warranty. They said they'd forgotten to remove that part, and pointed me to their "returns and shipping" page. That, however, only talks about returns up to 30 days. I asked for more clarification about, say, a defective magneto, but no response yet. I'm guessing their actual warranty is 30 days.
hmm, thanks for that info, seems kinda sketchy that they 'forgot' to remove warranty info
 

bfgmovies

New Member
Aug 28, 2010
49
0
0
Statesboro, GA
Too many variables there....I have gotten them in less than a week, and as long as a month. Different sellers ship differently.
yeah I'm going to Jekyll island in two weeks with my friends and I would love to bring a motorized bike there which is why I was wondering, but yeah hopefully they can ship in a week
 

chainmaker

Well-Known Member
Jan 19, 2010
2,634
69
48
Ma USA
huh, zoombicycles seems like a good company to buy from, at least from everything I've read, and they are pretty cheap. How long does it usually take for your engine to arrive from purchase to door?
Took 10 days My entire vacation...
brnotCheers
 

bfgmovies

New Member
Aug 28, 2010
49
0
0
Statesboro, GA
Hey guys, thanks for all the input! I finally went with Zoombicycles and it's being shipped now.. I'm pretty pumped and I can't wait to get it on my bike haha!
hails!
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
Hey guys, thanks for all the input! I finally went with Zoombicycles and it's being shipped now.. I'm pretty pumped and I can't wait to get it on my bike haha!
hails!
When the engine arrives just take your time and get everything straight and make sure you go down to your local auto parts store or wherever you choose and get a bottle of BLUE LOCTITE thread locker, use it on every nut and bolt, and dont over tighten anything just get it good and snug and then give it a little tweak past that, the bolts and nuts that come with these kits are a little soft so they will strip out and/or break pretty easy if you get to rough with them, just double and triple check everything as you go together with it, more then likely you will need to make some minor adjustments even after you think you have it all right but just dont get in such a hurry that you create an issue that will frustrate the living crap out of ya, been there done that..........!

Good luck I wish you lots of happy FUN riding......
God Bless, Shan

dance1
 

bfgmovies

New Member
Aug 28, 2010
49
0
0
Statesboro, GA
When the engine arrives just take your time and get everything straight and make sure you go down to your local auto parts store or wherever you choose and get a bottle of BLUE LOCTITE thread locker, use it on every nut and bolt, and dont over tighten anything just get it good and snug and then give it a little tweak past that, the bolts and nuts that come with these kits are a little soft so they will strip out and/or break pretty easy if you get to rough with them, just double and triple check everything as you go together with it, more then likely you will need to make some minor adjustments even after you think you have it all right but just dont get in such a hurry that you create an issue that will frustrate the living crap out of ya, been there done that..........!

Good luck I wish you lots of happy FUN riding......
God Bless, Shan

dance1
Thanks for the input man! yeah should I actually replace the bolts? scratg I've heard that the China imported bolts are crap so I was thinking about doing that as well, unless the bolts aren't compatible with the engine
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
Myself I replaced the rear mounting studs with grade 5 bolts that I just cut the heads off of and make studs of them, that is a good idea in my opinion because I had issues with the rear studs breaking on me until I made that change, somewhere like a good hardware store or a place like Fasten-All will have what you need, those rear studs are about 75-80mm's long I just bought some 6mm X 100mm bolts and cut them to length, I also replace the machine screw/bolts that hold the clutch cover and sprocket cover on with grade 5 allen-socket head bolts (optional), and I use allen-socket head bolts for the front engine mount instead of the studs that came in the engines I have, by doing this all you need to have as far as tools is a 5mm allen wrench, a 10mm open end boxed end wrench, and a #2 philips screw driver, on the carb studs pick you up some good quality nylon inserted 6mm lock nuts and I highly suggest that you get you a piece of 1/32" fuel safe gasket material and make you another gasket to go between the intake and the cylinder and apply some gasket sealer to both sides of gasket, I prefer the permatex aviation gasket sealer that comes in a can that has a stem with a brush on it attached to the inside of the lid, it is much better than silicone in my opinion, it actually glues the gasket but stays flexable and seals under heat and pressure much better than silicone, be sure and check the head stud nuts for tightness and use double nuts on the exhaust studs when you mount your muffler also remember to use the blue loctite on every nut and bolt, these little rascals will vibrate the nuts right off in many cases if you dont, I know this all sounds like a lot of info. here but I'm just telling you what I've learned on my engines through trial and error.......so bare with me here and just maybe I can save you some headaches and help you to get off and running without to many mechanical issues.

Go to a parts house or a motorcycle shop and get a NGK B5HS, B6HS or B7HS Spark Plug any of these will work fine, and also go ahead and spend 3-4 bucks and get a NGK spark plug boot I use this one NGK part# LB05EZ this will save you a headache believe me, the ones that normally come with the motors dont last long at all just a few miles in my case on 2 motors before they came apart on me.

Now another very important thing is....when you mount the engine at the rear which will be on the upright tubing that the seat post is in make sure that the rear engine spacer that goes up against the tube is flush and flat against the upright tube no gap at bottom or at top if not it will put a bind on your rear mounting studs when you tighten them and most likely the engine will become loose and/or break the studs, this is very important so dont overlook this one. now if you have a drill and a small drill bit set you will want to perfom this little very important tweak to the chain tensioner once you get it in place and you know the tensioner is where it needs to be with the chain roller in it's lowest position so it can be raised to take up the slack as the chain stretches and the sprockets wear in, the pic below shows what I'm suggesting you do to your tensioner where it clamps around the frame, now keep in mind your tensioner will not look like the one in the pic because this is one I rigged up for the latest bike I put together, but the lower part will be very simular and you will see what you will need to do, this will keep the tensioner from rotating inward and getting into your spokes on the wheel, imagine what this would be like @ about 30mph.....! not good.....! all you will need is one small self tapping sheet metal screw and you will drill a small whole through the tension bracket and the bike frame just large enough for the screw to thread into, this will eliminate the chance for the tensioner to rotate inward and make a big mess of things and possibly get you hurt in the proccess.

I know this is a lot of jabbering but if you will follow these directions when you go together with your bike it will sure give you a better and much more dependable set up.
Good luck and I wish you lots of fun safe miles in the future on your bike.

Shan
 

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