30 Miles and WT#!!!!

kutsuda said:
like most of everyones saying it sounds like an airleak quickest way to identify an airleak would be to start engine up let it warm up and spray carb cleaner around the carb and intake wherever u hear the engine idle speed up at thats where the leak is also let it warm up and turn choke on if engine doesnt die immediately u have an airleak most common place for airleak is around the intake manifold where the carb slides if thats where it is take some permatex high temp gasket maker and seal it best way to do this is to take off carb and manifold clean both with alcohol make sure theres no oil or gas in it u want it clean as possible then take gasket maker rub a little around the manifold slide area making sure not to get it near the very end slide carb onto manifold and wait to dry
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If I cant get it started I cant check for a air leak can I?
 
is the plug wet...if you have spark...plug wet...should fire...what carb do you have...the new speed carbs...i have no luck with...had the same thing happen..went back to old nt...thats dax has a nttc witch seems pretty good...drain that gas...start a new misture...what kind of oil...add what kind of motor...lots of variables here...good luck rw...you'll get it...Dennis
 
I will retorque the head when I get home and see what happens.

Oh, By the way, THANK YOU all for trying to help me with this problem.

Q
 
Ok, I torqued the head to specs, tried firing up with pipe off, just spewed gas on the bike, no fire. any other suggestions? I will offer a free beer (Deschutes Brewery Mirror Pond Pale Ale from right here In Beautiful Bend, Oregon) shameless plug for a great beer, to any one that can figure it out, If you do not drink beer, then a pop!

Q
 
so to recap, new plug, new cdi, getting fuel, getting compression, getting air?

it might be running extremely rich... maybe move the c-clip up a notch
 
i say you have no spark...first i'm in for the beer...and i'll pay the shipping...now we have three areas to check...cut off switch..cdi...magneto...first take off your magneto plate and check wires...connections...than follow your blue and black wires out off the engine and check these connections...tape off the white wire..if you have a headlight we'll connect it later...remember...blk to blk...blue to blue...thats it...do not hook up the kill switch...now you are wired direct..check plug...gap between .24 and .30...now does your bike move freely or do you have to pull the clutch in to move it...if the later...fine
..put your muffler back on...go out and start it...by the way what kind of carb do you have?one thing at a time from here...we must do it this way or its a hit and miss...get back to me . Dennis...i,m going for the beer...ha
 
I am getting spark but is it enough, a guy at the small engine repair place here in town said that even if it was a weak spark it should still go.

fuel= fresh 92 octane, coming out the pipe so I think that it is getting to much fuel.

spark= New CDI, new plug wire/boot/plug, when grounded there is spark on the plug. gap =.024

combustion= when I try to get it started, if im not going fast enough it will almost buck me off, so i think that is enough, is there a base point for setting the clutch i.e. so many screws in on the flower nut and then back it out, kind of like the idle screw on the carb?

Q
 
drhofferber said:
i say you have no spark...first i'm in for the beer...and i'll pay the shipping...now we have three areas to check...cut off switch..cdi...magneto...first take off your magneto plate and check wires...connections...than follow your blue and black wires out off the engine and check these connections...tape off the white wire..if you have a headlight we'll connect it later...remember...blk to blk...blue to blue...thats it...do not hook up the kill switch...now you are wired direct..check plug...gap between .24 and .30...now does your bike move freely or do you have to pull the clutch in to move it...if the later...fine
..put your muffler back on...go out and start it...by the way what kind of carb do you have?one thing at a time from here...we must do it this way or its a hit and miss...get back to me . Dennis...i,m going for the beer...ha
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The carb is the stock "speed" I think that it is the newer one with the shut off on the carb.

Q
 
if its almost bucking you off the clutch isnt slipping. try to move the clip on the carb needle 1 stop up like i said and see if that works. also make sure your idle screw is far enough in.
 
Sounds like all is in order except you are getting too much gas to the cylinder. Try starting it wide open with no choke (lever down), and pedal like ****!
 
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ok...for one i dislike those carbs...second, yes the star nut on the clutch can be set...just take the set screw off and turn it to the right, to tighten,...it sounds like its set enough to start...everthing we do from this point is to start it...the fine tuning comes later...ok...the white wire is disconnected and taped, right...because if it is grounding the bike it will cause the bike not to start...have you disconnected the kill switch...?get right back to me...i;m in reno on your time, so i'll stay with you untill we ge it started...Dennis
 
try joes suggestion next,

choke off, hold the throttle wide open and pedal like **** and get back to us on what happens with that
 
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