Motorized Bicycle Carburetor pictures how to install and rebuild

Pictures from taking the carb off the bike and taking it apart to puting it back together and some info. on how and what it all does well sort of and ways to change the main jet for those who want to and areas that can bite you by plugging off and sort of how to fix them. I hope this will sort out your questions if not let me know. I think this is a very nice and simple carb I think its great some of you hate it, can't make everyone happy. Here's the pictures.
The pencil is pointing to where you can turn this out and take up some of the slack on the throttle cable.


you can see a hose attached to the intake manifold it was for testing a boost bottle after testing them I now have the hole plugged with a pipe plug. My finding are the boost bottle does a couple of thing the first is it boosts your money from you pocket into the sellers pocket. second is you are stuck with a hole in the intake after wards unless you either plug it or weld the hole shut.

Re: Carb pictures how to

off the bike and on the bench.

Re: Carb pictures how to

bang its apart. My dry board doesn't have spell check and my penmanship needs work.

Re: Carb pictures how to

I wanted you to see the IDLE SCREW and the little throttle slide guide and the fuel tickler, push it down for a few seconds and it lets fuel in the carb for a cold start along with using the choke. I don't use it myself.( the tickler)
when you go to put the slide back into the carb make sure, I mean damn sure you put the slide in the carb matching the long slot of the slide with with the small pin in the carb (aka. the slide guide0 it is on the opposite side of the idle screw. Look it over closely work the throttle twist grip while looking into the throat of the carb(air cleaner off ) making sure the throttle slide closes all the way and opens all the way. If you don't do this step you might get a "Mr. toads wild ride' the first time you fire up your bike. YOU DO HAVE THE KILL SWITCH HOOKED UP RIGHT? Good for you now letsw continue with tearing this unpolished turd up.


I have the idle screw label inside as idle speed tit in slide body. It should be just the tip of the idle speed screw. the idle speed screw works on the short notch of the throttle slide holding the slide open just enough for the engine to idle when you get the idle speed screw adjusted to your liking, the slides short notch is angled for the idle speed rounded off end to sit against as you turn in the idle speed the rounded end pushes against the angled notch making the slide open up a little for the proper idle. How fast it idles depends on you or what you like for an idle speed. If your running lights then you might want a faster idle if it dies when your light are turned on .

Re: Carb pictures how to

this should explain its self.

Re: Carb pictures how to

.026 is stock dia. of main jet on my carb to go leaner solder shut and drill smaller my suggestion is one size at a time ( what affects wide open throttle is main jet dia.). Most adjustment can be made with the e-clip on the needle. This mostly affects the less than wide open area of throttle. If you can't get it tuned with the e-clip and want to go richer make sure of your stock size then drill the next size bigger then test your bike. I have found some other carbs have 0.025 main jets.
I've also found that if the needle is not tapered or taperd properly your engine will not rev up ask Pablo. you can measure the taper at the tip by the grooves it should be arond 0.070 and down at the pointed end about 0.068 or so more taper the richer it will get you can ruin it in a heart beat by sanding it but sometimes you have to do this by chucking it up ina dremel and use 600 wet/dry and very lightly spin the needle while holding the paper to the needle check it often and try it in the bike until you are happy with it or ruined it and need to get a new one. Dam I hate it when that happens.

Re: Carb pictures how to

screwdriver points to the mainjet on the very end of the emulsion tube

right under the chokes mounting nut and a little to the left is the carbs floats chamber vent hole it can become plugged but I've not seen one plugged yet.



if your choke keeps vibrating to the choke on position the nut you see on the choke lever can be tightened just a little bit to stop the choke going on problem. after a slight tightening work the lever. All you want is some resistance to movement over tightening it will break the bolt off.

Re: Carb pictures how to

pointing to the place where if you get trash in the tank if you do not run an inline filter this is where it will get to first and cause the engine to flood you got to take it apart to get the dirt/trash out. this can be removed by taking off the fuel line and unsrcewing the fuel inlet pipe carefully and don't loose the red gasket hard to make and will leak if you mess it up.

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explains its self

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float how it looks when its upside down I'm sure there's a measurement in china but I don't know what it is I should have measured it in the pic. this photo the float isn't setting level but it should be my mistake when I took the photo. With the float setting level it should get you in the ball park.

Re: Carb pictures how to

adjusting the float for the fuel level this is something to do only if you can't get it to stop flooding or over filling the bowl with fuel. If you ruin it you most likely will have to get a new carb. I haven't checked on parts at the cycle shops. I'm showing where to bend it I don't recommend bending the tangs as it would be hard to get them the same and they probably are not the same anyway but if you can try to get the tangs close to being the same then bend where I'm showing in the photo try to get the float level with the carb upside down. messing with fuel level in the float bowl will affect rich to lean to a degree how much on this thing I don't know. lower fuel level equals learner mixture and can starve engine and you might burn a hole through the piston. something to think about. Do a plug check when messing with the carb.
A quick and easy cave man check to see if the needle and seat are working. attach a short piece of fuel line to the carbs inlet fuel nipple hold the carb right side up using your lungs blow into the fuel line as your blowing into the fuel line turn the carb up side down you shouldn't be able to blow through it then. Hey don't do this with fuel in the carb fuel is not good for you and don't suck on it for cryin out loud!

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I'm not a big fan of silicone but there is a time and a place for this stuff. This will seal the intake to carb very, very, I do mean very well. YOU WILL NOT SUCK SOMETHING into your engine and cause you a big heartache this way. I ,m showing you how easy it is to do step by step.
I'm finding that good silicone works very well on these engines just a thin skim of silicone on each side of all fiber gaskets will really help seal it for a leak proof fitting.
I like the black high temp stuff. Like what is in the photos I don't think this tube is high temp but you get the idea.

Re: Carb pictures how to

push it together. you can do this on the bike if you got the room sometime you will have to remove the aircleaner to mount the carb on a tight fitting frame. after pushing it together just a little twisting to help spread the silicone and aline up the casting seams on the carb and the manifold tighten the bolt and TADA.( I polished off the seam fooling around with the polishing wheel and never mind the weird fitting its for a boost bottle and I wanted to try one so I made one. I would recommend a tuned pipe money better spent and thats my 2-cents but they don't hurt anything and if you want it to look cool sticker and all go for it. I did find the engine will idle at a much lower setting on the idle screw and the thing seems to run smoother but top end nada.
I realy don't think it's worth the money for a boost bottle and besides you end up with a holed manifold so now I will need to make a steel one someday. I make offset intake manifolds on special order for $30.00 shipping is $5.00 if you want to make your own I can sell you the machined part that goes into the carb its a little short stub of machined steel for $10.00 if you can't find one or don't have the tools to make one. PM me and I can knock you out one even an off set one

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as the picture says no part of a o-ring sticking out in the bore and no need to worry about it coming loose and the engine eating it. the carb should not come loose or leak and you don't have to worry about keeping the carb pushed up tight against the ring while tightening it. I rest my case.

Re: Carb pictures how to

airbreather exploded view. I cut the opening where the air comes in on the breather teeth opened it up a little. the gain? more noise for sure.

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I thought I'd show the choke and the symbols we all know what they mean . you can read chinese can't you. The filter ain't the best but it works for me and I'm cheap. #2 pic. almost done the last parts to go in the carb and again the stock setting and parts aligned on sequence of assembly

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I should delete as this didn't turn out real well. I wanted to show you how to make the cable end for the carb made out of a single strand of copper phone wire wrapped around the cable and silver soldered and there is an example of the wrapping and a finished end I made these just for this post on a scrap piece of cable ther's more ways to do this I find this very simple to do. The silver solder to me is important don't want the end to get loose and go through the engine and that is where it will go if it gets a chance. Nasty picture.

Re: Carb pictures how to

bottom picture is a little out of focus but shows how the thing looks assembled correctly