Exhaust system looks nice and tight. You know people are wanting to know what your speed was on the straight?
EZR's 2nd full suspension Project
- Thread starter Easy Rider
- Start date
It seems like it was hitting somewhere in the mid 40s but the mid range pull was really strong once it got on the pipe. I didn't push it all the way down the straight because the straight had a slight downhill and it was winding out pretty good at the end of the straight so I didn't want to blow the motor up.
I like this pic better.......
Yep, that is you on a hot, hard day of racing.....congrats on a top place finish once again! Had a blast racing with you and the rest of the faster bikes, glad you were able to get your engine fixed and make it down for this race......you were smokin'!
See you in October Ken,
u know who.....#3
I understand what you mean when you say I don't want to blow my motor up. My jug is being stripped and re-chromed right now. I had some ring wear that caused the pistion to score the cylinder wall. Also upgraded from a single to a dual ring 44mm pistion. $400.00 bucks down the drain (with shipping).... Dam it!
Thanks for the pic Scotto!I like this pic better.......
See you in October Ken,
u know who.....#3
It's always fun racing with you and Ice. I just relized that my only saving Grace is you guys race back to back! LOL So my hat you Iron men because after our race, I was sucking some serious wind!
I wish I can make it to the race in two weeks but I have a Saturday appointment and I'm on call that weekend as well.
44mm!?!?!?!
That's big! Isn't stock like a 36mm piston.
I dumped about $600 in my bike by upgrading my clutch and pipe.
I guess I will blow mine up one day? My stock air cooled has been red lined a bunch! I got to the point that I don't even think about it. Guessing that Easy Riders bike has a slight timing mod? He is prolly doing another couple thousand rpm's than I have seen? heh heh
Thanks Jeff, I think the new pipe was the difference. Was I the only one having a challenging time going clockwise? I already know the Iceman is going to be on fire the next race...especially going counter-clockwise.
BTW:
Your new bike is definitely a looker. It's nice to see a work of art.
No timing mods Goat. The ignition is completely stock. Pretty much its a stock 49cc with a retwisted FMF Gold Series Fatty pipe, 21mm carb and a Tomar clutch.
Gosh well shoot somebody has to see what the limits are?
Whats been your max RPM at sea level? The most I ever got was about 12,000 here at my altitude. I run at about 11.000 RPM's quite a bit and is usually about all it will do..21mm carb.. It may very well finally give one day. Don't wanna think about that? Been gonna put a fresh piston bearing in the BoXer motor sitting at about 9,000 miles now. I do wounder about that bearing sometimes? Shoot I thought about this motor in general a lot lol since day one. It is still ticking. I beet the crap out of my motors.
You have blown these motors up aye?
I did have one motor get garbage at the jug cylinder. Tore the whole motor down and found nothing wrong with it. Suspect sabotage? I know.. hate to even say that as I've very good friend's here where I live so I never did bother anyone. . Could have been a piece of slag in the exhaust but I've ruled that out as it would just not be at all possible. It is just about darn time for a big bore kit as the motor looks cherry for the task.
Or it can simply serve as a spare parts ditty for the air cooled and the two liquid's in the long haul.
My currant silencer carb cover serves a duel purpose. As a anti tamper device too. It is a pain in the butt to take on and off but stays in place very well without any trouble of up keep just hangs out peacefully with me.. I mean one never knows in this world? Lock the bike up outside for a few and somebody could throw something in the carb and slap the filter back on?
Whats been your max RPM at sea level? The most I ever got was about 12,000 here at my altitude. I run at about 11.000 RPM's quite a bit and is usually about all it will do..21mm carb.. It may very well finally give one day. Don't wanna think about that? Been gonna put a fresh piston bearing in the BoXer motor sitting at about 9,000 miles now. I do wounder about that bearing sometimes? Shoot I thought about this motor in general a lot lol since day one. It is still ticking. I beet the crap out of my motors. You have blown these motors up aye?
I did have one motor get garbage at the jug cylinder. Tore the whole motor down and found nothing wrong with it. Suspect sabotage? I know.. hate to even say that as I've very good friend's here where I live so I never did bother anyone. . Could have been a piece of slag in the exhaust but I've ruled that out as it would just not be at all possible. It is just about darn time for a big bore kit as the motor looks cherry for the task.
Or it can simply serve as a spare parts ditty for the air cooled and the two liquid's in the long haul.
My currant silencer carb cover serves a duel purpose. As a anti tamper device too. It is a pain in the butt to take on and off but stays in place very well without any trouble of up keep just hangs out peacefully with me.. I mean one never knows in this world? Lock the bike up outside for a few and somebody could throw something in the carb and slap the filter back on?
I semi blew up my motor. The Wednesday night before the race, I changed the plug. It ran good for one 70 yard sprint after that it ran like crap. I did a plug check and the porcelin inside the plug cracked off and bounced around inside of the cylinder and destroyed my piston. Thanks to Dean, he got me a piston and installed it on Friday but had some business to take care of that weekend so I went to the race solo.
I tried to trick Steve (Mag Rider) to adjust my clutch but he wouldn't bite! LOL
Dean has 4 years on his motor and it still runs stong on the same rings.
At the last race at Grange, I noticed that my clutch was engaging too soon and not allowing the motor to get on the pipe coming out of the corners. Granted I pedaled my butt off to fend off Ice and Scotto for 2nd. (excluding the mopeds) I finally had time today to adjust my clutch. I thought it would be a pain in the rear but it only took me 15 minutes to drain the fluids and check out the clutch. I found out that one of the spring allen can loose allowing the clutch to engage early. I decided to check all the allens and was suprised how loose all the allens were at the correct height. I blue loctite all the screws and hope it will be enough from coming loose again. Hopefully I'll be able to hang with the big boys at Adams without pedaling my butt off again but we'll see because I was told Adams is a fast and less technical track. Regardless...I just want to have fun come race day!
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Alternative clutch oil
I did a little research today with alternative Tomar clutch oils. Tomar Cool Blue runs for over $20 a quart plus shipping. (roughly$30/quart) I kind of semi flipped out on the price and lucky for me, no one had it in stock. I made a few calls to shops that sells Tomar clutches and asked what different oils I should use. One shop said B&M Trick Shift works okay and another shop said that some people have luck with using Trick Shift but others have not. I asked what they would recommend and they said Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. At $9 a quart and sold at Winchester Auto, I’m going to give it a try it. I use Mobil One in all my cars and trust the quality. I’m going to test it out at Baird’s race at Adams.
I did a little research today with alternative Tomar clutch oils. Tomar Cool Blue runs for over $20 a quart plus shipping. (roughly$30/quart) I kind of semi flipped out on the price and lucky for me, no one had it in stock. I made a few calls to shops that sells Tomar clutches and asked what different oils I should use. One shop said B&M Trick Shift works okay and another shop said that some people have luck with using Trick Shift but others have not. I asked what they would recommend and they said Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. At $9 a quart and sold at Winchester Auto, I’m going to give it a try it. I use Mobil One in all my cars and trust the quality. I’m going to test it out at Baird’s race at Adams.
Finally the season is over. My motor limped through the last two races with a bad crank seal. My motor was constantly mixing my clutch fluid and two stroke oil into my cylinder and stalling after the straight. During the main I ran only 2 oz. of clutch oil and it did help out but it still sputtered at the end of the straight. I was lucky because I TRIED "lol" to stay in front of the Mopeds for most of the race and it was taped.
Chris from Tomahawk Mopeds is a fricken awesome racer and one **** of a nice guy. He had his bike cam on and video taped.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7EsYbA831Q&list=UUpmRXys5jX0-1m51Xh0Ixew&index=1&feature=plcp
Chris from Tomahawk Mopeds is a fricken awesome racer and one **** of a nice guy. He had his bike cam on and video taped.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7EsYbA831Q&list=UUpmRXys5jX0-1m51Xh0Ixew&index=1&feature=plcp
Man that motor was running strong despite the oil mixing problem. . Bummer that happened. You sir make me even more proud I own 4 of these motors !! That was some good riding you folks were doing. Looked like at the end of one of those runs you folks had almost lapped a few people that were in the back of the race?
I am still patiently paying my dues. That second bike I got will be mind blowing quick. Prolly have it perfected by spring, with the new work job I have holding up.
I am still patiently paying my dues. That second bike I got will be mind blowing quick. Prolly have it perfected by spring, with the new work job I have holding up.
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Well shoot I am still learning something about oils to try. Was wondering how well just plane ol baby oil would have worked on that clutch? Well being that it was slipping and you cut it back to only 2 ounces .
The trans fluid you got in it at one time was overheating the clutch from slipping from not having the right additives in it?? Dunno? Guessing? Like mebbe there is too much ''lubrication'' qualities in the Mobile One brand Trans fluid? From what I have read I think it has a ''CD'' rating in its ingredients and that don't work well with wet clutches?? Dunno?
Quote: In order to prevent clutch slippage (since the engine oil also lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical additives with the oil or use oils of a higher grade than "CD". In addition, do not use oils labeled "ENERGY CONSERVING II" or higher. http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-33614.html
https://www.google.com/search?q=mob...2da361fb107ce2f&bpcl=35466521&biw=640&bih=309
Dimethylsilicones (dimethylsiloxanes) is commonly used as anti-foaming agent in lubricants.
http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=additives_in_lubricating_oils
All these wet clutch oils are basically mineral oils from what I have read with some additives put in them like friction modifiers that actually add grip to there oils for these applications..Which is where I hypothesis they get their bragging rights about their brand oils helping a wet clutch run cooler?
My thought was that one would have a better clutch cooling factor in the equation with out the slip at pennies on the dollar. I know prolly should have kept this crazy baby oil idea to my self lol
Had done some reading today and some of the commercial blends are mineral oil/synthetic blends.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil
http://www.buzzle.com/articles/mineral-oil-uses.html
http://www.multitherm.com/multitherm-pg-1.html
Another thought I had was about flash points. Mainly because the fellow mechanic that told me of this idea said it might be highly flammable if it vaporizes enough?
My assumptions are that with a common anti foaming agent added to it and a few other uber cool ingredients and ya got what folks are selling at 20 dollars or so a quart lol.
The trans fluid you got in it at one time was overheating the clutch from slipping from not having the right additives in it?? Dunno? Guessing? Like mebbe there is too much ''lubrication'' qualities in the Mobile One brand Trans fluid? From what I have read I think it has a ''CD'' rating in its ingredients and that don't work well with wet clutches?? Dunno?
Quote: In order to prevent clutch slippage (since the engine oil also lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical additives with the oil or use oils of a higher grade than "CD". In addition, do not use oils labeled "ENERGY CONSERVING II" or higher. http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-33614.html
https://www.google.com/search?q=mob...2da361fb107ce2f&bpcl=35466521&biw=640&bih=309
Dimethylsilicones (dimethylsiloxanes) is commonly used as anti-foaming agent in lubricants.
http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=additives_in_lubricating_oils
All these wet clutch oils are basically mineral oils from what I have read with some additives put in them like friction modifiers that actually add grip to there oils for these applications..Which is where I hypothesis they get their bragging rights about their brand oils helping a wet clutch run cooler?
My thought was that one would have a better clutch cooling factor in the equation with out the slip at pennies on the dollar. I know prolly should have kept this crazy baby oil idea to my self lol
Had done some reading today and some of the commercial blends are mineral oil/synthetic blends.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil
http://www.buzzle.com/articles/mineral-oil-uses.html
http://www.multitherm.com/multitherm-pg-1.html
Another thought I had was about flash points. Mainly because the fellow mechanic that told me of this idea said it might be highly flammable if it vaporizes enough?
My assumptions are that with a common anti foaming agent added to it and a few other uber cool ingredients and ya got what folks are selling at 20 dollars or so a quart lol.
Goat,
I've only used two different types of clutch fluids.
1. Tomar Cool Blue clutch fluid
2. Mobil One ATF.
I liked the Cool Blue but man was it expensive and is Hard to find. The Mobil One ATF worked good and is a third of the price. I changed the oil at the last race a couple of times and the one thing I noticed was there were fiction plate partials in the fluid after draining the ATF. I know in the off season, I'll be buying a couple of friction plates.
I can remember who told me but someone said the oil is mainly used for cooling purposes.
I've only used two different types of clutch fluids.
1. Tomar Cool Blue clutch fluid
2. Mobil One ATF.
I liked the Cool Blue but man was it expensive and is Hard to find. The Mobil One ATF worked good and is a third of the price. I changed the oil at the last race a couple of times and the one thing I noticed was there were fiction plate partials in the fluid after draining the ATF. I know in the off season, I'll be buying a couple of friction plates.
I can remember who told me but someone said the oil is mainly used for cooling purposes.
This weekend, my son and I decided to have a garage sale to help get rid of some of our old stuff(Junk). I guess it is true what they say: One man's trash is another man's treasure. We racked in over $1k in two days that ended before noon.
It's funny when you clean out drawers that you haven't opened for years, you find treasures you thought you'll never use again. I found these goodies that I'm going to try to make them work on my BoXer.
First thing is my old Mychron3. I couldn't find my beacon to register lap times but I think it might be in my trailer.
Second thing is a VForce stuffed reed cage with 8 carbon fiber reed petals. This reed set up is one that made a difference on my BZMs. When I do my rebuild for my Morini, I'll be definitely doing my best to make this cage fit.
It's funny when you clean out drawers that you haven't opened for years, you find treasures you thought you'll never use again. I found these goodies that I'm going to try to make them work on my BoXer.
First thing is my old Mychron3. I couldn't find my beacon to register lap times but I think it might be in my trailer.
Second thing is a VForce stuffed reed cage with 8 carbon fiber reed petals. This reed set up is one that made a difference on my BZMs. When I do my rebuild for my Morini, I'll be definitely doing my best to make this cage fit.
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I finally had a chance to work on the bike and pull the motor. Everything looked good but I found that the crank case gasket was letting coolant into the crankcase. I don't plan on any mods but a new set of gaskets and replacing the Tomar disk.
