You can get with this... or you can get with that

no dont do it! i will give you a dyno frame if you pay the shipping. dennis
 
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please help me understand why i shouldnt put this motor on this frame. Im not so stubborn that i wont listen... I just dont understand, steel is steel. Unless someone has done some kind of ultrasonic analysis of these frames? Is a dyno or a felt made of a higher tensile strength material? What is going to break first? I have my own doubts and hesitations, but i planned up beefing up this bike anyway with better wheels and a pretty overkill motor mount and gear reduction. I am also looking into getting crash gear far beyond just a regular helmet and jeans while im finding the limitations of a fast MAB. Once again, I really wish someone would share something that would help me make an informed decision.
 
There are different grades of steel, but unless the better brands are chrome moly steel that wouldn't be the biggest issue. The real issue is the wall thickness and the weld quality. If you plan on using a cheaper frame it would be a good idea to gusset up every corner and maybe even add in some extra metal in the more critical areas like the bottom of the frame where the lower frame tube and the rear tubes meet the pedal crank opening, where the upper rear tubes meet the seat post, and the steering head should have some extra metal to reenforce the connections there.
 
put the banana seat on with some homemade thicker mounting brackets
 

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going to do the motor mount plate today hopefully, then looking at wheel options. I keep telling myself not to buy any more bicycle parts until i see how the motor and jackshaft fit in the frame. but i really want to get smaller stronger wheels.
 
i ordered a rear wheel with 12 gauge spokes today. going to see if i can squeeze/tilt the motor mount and motor in without altering the stock gearing or cutting the frame
 
mock up in frame. doesnt really fit well going to go with chopping and stretching the frame.
 

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