WOW ! I thought I was on my own...

[GearNut]

dougy, Flame spraying or thermal spraying can be used for all sorts of restoration or improvement applications.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_spraying

I had my exhaust flame sprayed with aluminum. No rust- ever, quick heat dissipation, looks good, easier to maintain than chrome.

 

[dougy]

Thanks gearnut I'm gona look into that.

This girder front end is driving me bonkers !
To cut a long explanation short- its worn out, Its not beyond repair though but I have got to alter it a bit by drilling out the original linc threads, the linkage bolts have huge wear points on them and try as i might I could not get them to re-screw into the fork sides on the top linkage so I've had to completely drill it out and by good luck the CG spindle is also the same size and fits perfectly I just have to cut and re-thread the end and machine some grease points into it and the jobs a goodun, I'll have to do the same to the bottom one before it goes on the road and where it bolts onto the headstock also needs machining and thinwall bush's inserting.
Heres a pic of the worn top bolt.

I got the front wheel spindle back from the engineers and he's done a cracking good job on it I think, I also got the tank back and he'd managed to get the cap off with out wrecking it an more good news is the inside of the tank is in really good nick.

I couldnt resist chucking it together a bit to see what it looks like

 

[dougy]

I had a go on the little lathe and made some wheel spaces, I got my lad Archie involved as he's bagsied the bike, it was his job to clean up the alloy before its machined an he loves making swarf as much as I do - what is it with lathes ?

VID


I've orded a 12mm x 1.25 pitch die to make the top yoke spindle fit as its a bit long, but to make it work for now I've machined up some spaces to see if it all works..and it does so the next job is to find some more alloy for the rear wheel spaces, then I can get the rear wheel centred.

I must say this is a labour of love bringing this one back.

 

[curtisfox]

Sure would have been Kool to have a lathe when i was a kid. I would have made a bunch of things. You are doing a awesome job ...........Curt

 

[dougy]

Cheers Curt.

I bought some more supplies to get me moving again this week, a big lump of alloy for the rear wheel spaces which are now done, a 12 mm 1.25 pitch die an die holder for shortening the thread on the girder forks top spinndle, a cheapo drill stand and vice an a load of big drill bits.
I ran down to Manworld to drill out the 12mm front wheel spindle but its a 30 mile round trip so for the poxy little jobs the drill stand will come in handy, I'm not used to setting it up yet though because the first two spindles were...a bit wonky, there ok though, he's a vid of me drilling out genuine off center holes. It'll be good having it on wheels proper for a change, It'll certanly make it easier for the Mrs to move it into the yard when shes cleaning up

VIDEO

Front wheel rim+ spokes+ building £205.
Front tyre £55.
Rim tape £1.50
Frame straightening £40
Front wheel spindle £30.
Split pins £1.50
12mm drill bit £7.00
Pie tax to use manworlds piller drill, 2 x mince beef & onion 1 x meat & potatoe (Hollands)
Drill stand £31
Blacksmith Drill bits £30
Drill sharpener £8
Vice for drill £8
Cutting disks £9
Alloy £8
12mm 1.25 Pitch die, & holder £15
6mm die & holder £13
Cutting oil £6

 

[dougy]

I've been held up this week by some ebay loons taking a week to post me some cutting oil an discs (stll waiting on the oil :roll: ), also lost me 6mm die an holder in the worlds smallest shed an had to order another (a pound to a pinch of **** it will turn up now I've bought another) !

The front mudguard stay had one fastener missing so have made another one to do the job, It takes me ages doing little jobs like this on the lathe but love it cos its free .
Its a bit of mild steel bar an Its only a 6mm thread and in total the length is about 2.5cm long but when cutting the thread to size it bent quite easily, would I be right in thinking by heating it up red hot and quenching it in oil it will harden the metal ?

 

[GearNut]

Quench it in used automotive engine oil. Used oil is important because it has alot of carbon in it. The red hot steel will take on the carbon and this strengthens it, like the case hardening of a padlock shackle.

 

[dougy]

Nice one Gearnut, thats my job for tomorrow mate.

 

[dougy]

I read up on the tinternet about the process which is called carburisation, its exactly as you said gearnut and also gives a lovely dark colour to your metal and a degree of weatherproofing.

 

[Ludwig II]

So that's what you call it. I've done it on some fasteners in the past. In the right place it looks superb.

 

[GearNut]

Well done, dougy!
In order to give it a weatherproofing effect you must regularly wipe it down with an oil dampened rag. If it is left to dry out it will rust. Yes, oil can and will dry out of it.
Yes, it can and will attract dust, so don't soak it down, just a "dampening" effect of oil will do. That will help it to be not so much of a dust magnet.
It is sorta like Parkerising, but not as durable.

 

[dougy]

I've done a little bit of reserch on this and found the tyres are a wierd size for a country thats always been metric... there 27 inch as standard !
They measured the fitted tyre top to bottom and by chance the big front tyre I bought is exactly 27" so fits the mudguard radius perfect the rear I think is also 27" but to check I fitted the front in the back and again I think it fits ok and the mudguard radius looks fine, so the next job is to chop out the hub get it painted and off to the wheel builder..who will no-doubt book his holidays as soon as he see's me again.

Le perfect radius

 

[Ludwig II]

27" is close to 700mm (685), so could it be the old clincher style tyres were fitted, where they measured the outsides, not the rims?

 

[dougy]

I've seen a pic of an original tyre which look massive, I could see '27' embossed on it as well as 'Balloon', I always thought a Balloon tyre was just a description of a large tyre but its also a make ! Ya live an learn, probley came in handy for soaking up bumps on crappy roads ?

 

[dougy]

I went off to the wheel builder again today and ordered the back rim, I'm going for the stainless set up again from Hagons cos they where really quick last time, I sprayed up the hub an brake plate with Halfords silver wheel trim paint an gave it a coat of matt lacquer, I'll cut the rust of the mudguard an bolt it up proper next.

 

[Ludwig II]

This is beginning to look suspiciously like proper engineering.

 

[dougy]

Going back a bike or two lol, I changed the mopeds mixture to 50-1 and its transformed the bike, starting it no longer involves a lather of sweat, and its actually a pleasure to ride now, I've just got back from a motorbike rally about 30 miles from home with no problems, HIGHLY recommended !
Just got back from the Field party an wanted to say what a great time I had, big thanks to the organisers who true to word provided the very best in entertainment, food, beer an bogs

Archie's ped even won a prize which made it all the sweeter an also puts him as a firm favourite for the schools show an tell comp next week.

...Put ya sea shells an your grandads tin hat away kids, Archie's bikes just won a NCC rosette :lol:

 

[GearNut]

Congratulations to both of you!

 

[silverbear]

Lucky boy!
SB

 

[dougy]

Front wheel rim+ spokes+ building £205.
Front tyre £55.
Rim tape £1.50
Frame straightening £40
Front wheel spindle £30.
Split pins £1.50
12mm drill bit £7.00
Pie tax to use manworlds piller drill, 2 x mince beef & onion 1 x meat & potatoe (Hollands)
Drill stand £31
Blacksmith Drill bits £30
Drill sharpener £8
Vice for drill £8
Cutting disks £9
Alloy £8
12mm 1.25 Pitch die, & holder £15
6mm die & holder £13
Cutting oil £6[/quote]
Rear tyre £55.
Rear wheel rim+spokes+ building £205
Glass fiber repair kit £17.99
Rear innertube £9.00
Halfords Silver wheel trim paint £6.99
locktight gasket seal£5.50
Haynes manuel £18.99
Rear wheel crush spacer £7.00
Rear wheel bearing £5.50

I've had the rear wheel rebuilt like the front with a stainless rim an spokes, but the rear wheel crush spacer was missing, it was cheap enough at £3 so I didnt try an make one for that but by the time it got here ages have gone by an the vat an carrage took it to £7.... I hate momentum stopping moments like that though !
The mudguards have worn real thin by the passage of time so I decided to strenthen them by adding a layer of fibreglass, tommorow I'm going to trim the fiberglass an paint the underneath with underseal to neaten them up & fit some mudflaps as I've had to trim off about 3" of rot before I found some solid steel.