Worksman Boardtracker

when I first got my S/A X-FD front drum 3+ yrs ago, I called S/A to ask which way to orient the wheel...
the tech on the phone told me it didn't matter, it would work the same in both directions
I have used it both ways with no probs :)
 
sportscarpat said:
I had the Worksman outside today so I took some better pictures. First paper mock-up of the oil tank/tool box. Also built up a nicely ported custom intake manifold.
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Sorry to digress from the topic,...but I would like to know if that was a Delorrto Carb installed?
 
Carb is a CNS. People are having problems with them turning on the stock intakes and even falling off. I had the same problem so I tightened up the carb a little too much and busted the flange. Turns out the plastic bushing in the carb opening has a slot cut to allow the bushing to compress. The slot is not wide enough so the bushing can't compress enough to get the necessary clamping force. Just sand the gap a little wider and it stays in place. Otherwise a good carb.
 
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guys,
I saw it in person and I'll tell you it looks even better than the pics. I love this design so much that
I put my order in already before it's even finished! That's how much confidence I have in Sportcarpat's work!

This will be a true piece of Art!
 
I ordered the complete Worksman crank assembly with a 36t front bike sprocket and will probably go with a 16t rear. Don't know if it fits yet with the current engine placement. Motor side will receive a manic adapter with 40t. Stock weld on chain guard brackets have been removed for better engine placement.
 
I removed the chain gaurd brackets also but wasn't able to fit the motor down on the tube (like you have it) with the 36T.
 
RedB66 said:
I removed the chain gaurd brackets also but wasn't able to fit the motor down on the tube (like you have it) with the 36T.
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I just went and looked at your set-up (I saved a couple shots of your bike). I have been using the front mounts as is on these engines and then run two rear mounts stacked up. If the sprocket interfers with the engine then I add spacers under the the first rear mount where it meets the engine. By doing this I can move the front mount up the front drop tube till I clear the sprocket. I also use this method to get the chain size I need. I will try the 36t first in this fashion and then use the 32t as a way out if the 36 does not work. Do you think that will work?
 
Your wheel holder looks great with your classic build can I ask were you got it?
Nice looking all the way around!
Steve.
 
Steve M said:
Your wheel holder looks great with your classic build can I ask were you got it?
Nice looking all the way around!
Steve.
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I make the bike stands. If you need one just shoot me an email. I can even kick start the bike (not this one but the finished one!) on the stand and then let it warm up. This stand has the Schwinn "AS" logo above the motorbike logo, but that can easily be dropped from the CAD file if you don't have a Schwinn.
 
sportscarpat said:
I just went and looked at your set-up (I saved a couple shots of your bike). I have been using the front mounts as is on these engines and then run two rear mounts stacked up. If the sprocket interfers with the engine then I add spacers under the the first rear mount where it meets the engine. By doing this I can move the front mount up the front drop tube till I clear the sprocket. I also use this method to get the chain size I need. I will try the 36t first in this fashion and then use the 32t as a way out if the 36 does not work. Do you think that will work?
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Sounds like it would work!! I am using the stock intake and clearence for the throttle cable is veryclose. A 32 may be helpful on my application. I don't have to means to fabricate parts like the intake or muffler so I have to go with what works.

You say your using two mounts in the rear... have you seen these?
Gas Powered Engine for Bicycle 3 Inch Rear Xl Motor Mount With Studs | Motor Mounts | Parts for Gas Powered Bicycle Motor Kits | Live Fast Motors - Gas Motorized Bicycles and Gas Motorized Bicycle Parts
They can be cut to the size needed.
 
RedB66 said:
Sounds like it would work!! I am using the stock intake and clearence for the throttle cable is veryclose. A 32 may be helpful on my application. I don't have to means to fabricate parts like the intake or muffler so I have to go with what works.

You say your using two mounts in the rear... have you seen these?
Gas Powered Engine for Bicycle 3 Inch Rear Xl Motor Mount With Studs | Motor Mounts | Parts for Gas Powered Bicycle Motor Kits | Live Fast Motors - Gas Motorized Bicycles and Gas Motorized Bicycle Parts
They can be cut to the size needed.
Click to expand...

I looked at your link to the mounts. So far I have just stacked up the two that come in the kits for the rear mount. A piece of flat bar with a couple holes drilled in it as additional spacer if necessary. I hear you about the carb spacing. The manifold I built for this bike is a little lower and longer to give head space and clutch linkage clearence. I did just receive my crank assembly today so will know soon enough how things fit. I plan to use the same pipe you have but with one of my full port exhaust flanges and then tuck it up a little. That with this manifold and she should run pretty good. I could make you an intake manifold and mod your pipe if you want. Thanks for following my thread, too, as you have already been down the Worksman road and your input helps greatly.
 
RedB66,
Mounted up the 36t no problem at all with a mile of engine clearence. The Worksman sprocket is extra heavy duty for sure and probably needs a fatter chain. I measured and it looks as though a 44t could fit. I could even just keep the 36t and lower the engine a good 1 1/2 inches for better carb clearence with the center straightbar tube. Thats probably the best approach as it will lower the center of gravity and help with the handling. Plenty of room for sure! I will try and get some pictures.
 
sential said:
so i'm a little confused, is the loop frame from worksman available yet?
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Hi Sential,
I have talked to the Worksman guys and they have no interest at this time in a loop frame. I have approached the loop frame idea from a different angle. I look at functionally in the sense that in the 1920s the engines being used had huge crank cases that required a large loop in the drop tube. It was a functional mod. Now here we are building little replicas of these old racers, but we use very small engines. The loop to me is not necessary and entirely non functional. I have a little engine and the Worksman INB frame has a little loop. The perfect match. Instead of spending time, money and energy on non functional aspects of the build I have instead invested my time into getting on the road quickly and safely with a boardtracker that rips. I still mod the frames but only as the functional need dictates and right now it just does not dictate that I stretch the frame 4" and add a new down tube to what is already an excellent motor bike frame. That's my angle.
 
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well that makes sense,Are you able to purchase the inb frame directly from worksman? What does just the frame go for?

Also what do one of your tanks go for?
 
If you leave your wheels, engine, tank all bare metal it'll be good color contrast for the bike. Looks really good. rusty mullet
 
Here are a few updated pictures. 26 x 2.125 Quick Brick tires, Worksman crank assembly with 34 tooth sprocket, 16t rear sprocket, Brooks B67 saddle with custom layback seatpost. Oh, and a set of my boardtrack drop bars. It is certainly getting closer. I have redesigned the oil tank/tool box about 4 times now and think I am ready to cut the first one in stainless.
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