Wont start......please help!

[jkflyer]

I'm new to the whole motor bicycling world and taking it day by day.
I can use all advise I can get.

Here's my problem....
I've been riding around town with no trouble what so ever for the past week.
Then I head out today and I cant get the motor to turn over. I pedal and pedal and when I release the clutch all I get is sputter like its about to go, but know start up.
...WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?

Nothng has changed, I've just replaced the fuel filter but no other changes....
It just won't kick in
Please, I need help
Thank you

 

[bluegoatwoods]

Okay. Most likely you're not getting either fuel or spark. I'm betting on spark. But let's start with fuel.

If you have clear fuel line, then you'll be able to tell by looking whether fuel is getting to the carburetor or not. If yes, then set this issue aside for a few minutes.

Prop your bike up so that the rear wheel can spin freely. Then pull off your spark plug wire and remove the plug from the head. Re-attach it to the spark plug wire. Now, while holding the spark plug threads up against the engine, turn the rear wheel. You don't have to try to spin it at riding speed or anything like that. Just moderately fast. You should see spark jumping across the gap.

Come back here with your results and someone'll be able to get you going sooner or later.

Best of luck.

 

[crassius]

after changing fuel filter, it isn't strange to find that a small scrap of fuel line got rubbed off and sent down into the carb

 

[rhodeisland]

If it is not getting fuel I sometimes tap on the carburetor bowl with a screwdriver handle to free up the stuck fuel float.

 

[jkflyer]

Thanks to everyone.
I work late, just got home thought I'd try the bike out... and again no start just sputter
I noticed that the fule filter was full as if it wasn't drawing through. it usually is about half full
(Again I'm guessing) so I thought to check the line...& it was clear.

Then I removed and cleaned the screw that connects the full line to the carb it was a little gunked up. Replaced it all, and sadley still no start up. Lol Im assuming it could have easily gunked up the carb as well so I'll have to clean it out.
It all seems pretty basic but as I mentioned I'm new to this whole thing so I can use the advice.
I will try the spark check as blue goat mentioned and heed the advice of the rest.
Then get back to you all
Thanks again

 

[jkflyer]

So I've tried the spark check method you spoke of and I got no spark
..to be honest I'm not even quite sure I done it correctly. I simply removed the spark plug, reconnected it to the cable, held it against the engine casing, spun the rear wheel
and nothing.
Then I did the same on on my girls bike (which is running) but with my spark plug and still no spark. This may all seem a bit elementary, but as I said this is new to me.
...any suggestions on the repair?

I'm assuming I should remove and clean the carb as I may not be getting fuel....
any advise before tearing into this little guy to clean it?

 

[crassius]

if you can't see the spark, hold the plug in your hand and your hand against the motor and see if it bites your hand

 

[bluegoatwoods]

Wait a minute.....did you say that you got no spark and then tried the same spark plug on a bike that is known to run and still got no spark? That sounds like a bad spark plug.

Try your girl's spark plug on your bike.

 

[jkflyer]

Haha I had the same thought so I tried and no spark. However, much to my embarrassment If I must tell I had previously locked the clutch ( engaged) while working on the bikes and then ran the spark test ...it didn't even dawn on me until later. So I tried again this time correctly and I HAVE SPARK!

So im assuming my carb needs work or a cleaning???
Any suggestions?
I did just notice my carb seems to be slowly leaking from beneath the bowl. Could this be My no start issue?

 

[crassius]

it never hurts to clean it out and adjust everything right (as long as you don;t break it or lose parts)

 

[CTripps]

Check the gasket between the fuel bowl and the carb, they are often slightly misaligned and pinched.
It sounds like the float isn't floating enough to close the fuel intake or the fuel inlet isn't closing properly.
While apart, make sure there's no debris keeping the fuel inlet open and check the float and make sure it isn't taking on gas.

 

[2door]

If you had the float bowl off there's a chance the pin that the float tang swivels on has moved and is now blocking the bowl from seating properly. That will cause a fuel leak as well as keeping the float from working like it's supposed to.

While you're checking that, make sure the float,floats. They are notorious for leaking and sinking. A float that is full of fuel won't do its job. Look at it and shake it to see if there is fuel inside it. If so, throw it away and order a new one. They can't be fixed effectively as a rule.

Tom

 

[rhodeisland]

Check the gasket between the fuel bowl and the carb, they are often slightly misaligned and pinched.
It sounds like the float isn't floating enough to close the fuel intake or the fuel inlet isn't closing properly.
While apart, make sure there's no debris keeping the fuel inlet open and check the float and make sure it isn't taking on gas.

If the float is stuck in the up position it will prevent fuel from getting in the carb. tap on the bowl with a screwdriver handle just a thought because it happens to me.

 

[jkflyer]

So I have good news and bad news.
The good news being that I took apart, and cleaned my carb. ( which was flooded with fuel and a bit dirty) I put it all back together, and the bike started and ran smoother than ever!
Victory!!!

However, this victory was short lived....this being the bad news.lol
As I made it around the block and just about home, my main drive chain jammed up and locked in place. Thinking that it was simply loose I tried to put it back on. But the way it was jammed required me to remove the left rear cover with the clutch arm attached. Being the motobicycle newbie that I am removed the cover to hastily revealing the engine sprocket and a ball bearing and rod fell to the floor.

It seems im worse off then before, so heres my questions.
how does this go back together???
Does the ball bearing go in first then the rod rest against the clutch arm??? ( if that makes sense)
Why did this happen?
Did I just break something?
I can use the advise.
Thank you

 

[brown]

No Biggie. The ball bearing goes in first. Then the rod. Add a little stiff bearing grease to both while you are at it. It will help them from falling out when you remove the cover. Also provides some lubrication. You haven't broke any thing yet. Although you need to work on your chain alignment or your idler. You don't want that chain coming off. It will break the case if it keeps doing it.

 

[2door]

No Biggie. The ball bearing goes in first. Then the rod. Add a little stiff bearing grease to both while you are at it. It will help them from falling out when you remove the cover. Also provides some lubrication. You haven't broke any thing yet. Although you need to work on your chain alignment or your idler. You don't want that chain coming off. It will break the case if it keeps doing it.

Ditto:

Chain/sprocket alignment is critical as well as chain tension. 1/2" to 3/4" of slack. No more or less. Make sure the chain and sprockets are aligned properly and the rear sprocket is exactly concentric with the rear hub.

Glad you have the carburetor issue solved. Now address that chain and sprocket problem and you'll be golden.

Tom

 

[Greg58]

One of the best ways to check your chain alignment is to walk beside the bike with the clutch lever locked in and watch the path of the chain as it goes over the chain tensoiner, since everyone is mounted different you will have to make adjustments to the mount. Most everyone that has built a few of these has had to bend or twist the tensioner some to get the chain to run center.

 

[bluegoatwoods]

Looks like this thread is turning out well. The OP has now worked through three very common issues for happy time engines.

Being now familiar, they won't be daunting when they come up again.

If the weather ever warms up and quits snowing, then you'll be riding in no time, jkflyer.

 

[jkflyer]

Thank you to everyone, this forum has proved more useful then I could imagine.
Thank you for the assembly advice, I found the same info on YouTube and got my bike running this morning. But I do have one more question if I may...

My girls bike has a tensioner on the left side as well due to chain legnth issue.
The plastic wheel that the chain rest on has broken its outer lip causing the chain to slip.

My question is, where can you find these little things? (Tensioner wheel) I'm sure it was homemade and it has no bearing, simply a bolt through. Anybody have an idea on what I could use?

Haha and I'm in Bakersfield ca this place never sees snow.

 

[2door]

A better replacement for the kit plastic wheels is a modified skateboard wheel. The good ones are solid poly urethane. You'll need to grind/cut a groove in it for the chain. They also have bearings as opposed to bushings. Usually they are either 3/8" or 8mm.
Use the search feature, key word, 'skateboard wheel' and you'll have plenty of information about this old but popular modification.

Just a word of advice. The cheap skateboard wheels are two piece. They have a hard plastic inner core and a soft rubber outer layer. If you try to groove them they come apart and will be unusable.

Tom