wiring up a light

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bluesmanmike

New Member
How do I wire up a small headlight from the white wire on motor. I have two wires coming from light. I hook up the white wire to one wire from light. As soon as I take other wire from light and touch ground, it kills.
Whats Up????
Help me mister wizards.
 
What light are you using? The mag is 6v and can only put out about 3watts. Sounds like your light may be beyond the capabilities of the mag.

You might also want to run a off/on switch so your light does not run all the time unless thats what you want.
 
The white wire needs to be isolated from the + cycle of the CDI circuit. Put a diode in line (1/2 wave rectifier). large enough to handle your lights. Also use a battery as a regulator should work.
White wire --diode >|-- battery--switch, onside to light other to ground -- light --ground.
I'v aloso been thinking of using LEDs for the lighs, to simplicate the circut.
But what do I know I dont get my engen till Wednesday.
 
It puts out around 6volts 3watts and 0.5 amps so you can find lights with those numbers you will have betterluck. And add a on/off switch so you can star your engine with the lights off.
 
make sure you have a good plug wire when working with lights. I had the same problem ONCE! changed out the plug wire and BAM ,had lights!
 
You only need diodes when using LEDs or a battery (DC equipment).

Otherwise it just robs .6v per diode and you will have to run a floating or isolated earth with the resulting DC you are making or it can interfere with the timing of the ignition (DC bias)

Full wave rectification using a W04 or similar is double the power of half wave (single diode) if you go down the DC path.

The bulb used with some 6v lantern batteries is the biggest the white wire will run. Eveready part No. 1417 (PR12) is flange base or 1163 (GE31) is screw base
 
wildemere said:
You only need diodes when using LEDs or a battery (DC equipment).

Otherwise it just robs .6v per diode and you will have to run a floating or isolated earth with the resulting DC you are making or it can interfere with the timing of the ignition (DC bias)

Full wave rectification using a W04 or similar is double the power of half wave (single diode) if you go down the DC path.

The bulb used with some 6v lantern batteries is the biggest the white wire will run. Eveready part No. 1417 (PR12) is flange base or 1163 (GE31) is screw base
Click to expand...

You do not need a recitifier diode when using LEDs (the LED is a diode!).

You do not have to run a floating ground when using a half wave rectifier diode.

Full wave is double the power but it robs even more voltage and, unlike the half wave rectifier, the full wave rectifier requires an isolated (floating) ground.

Do what ernie said earlier. Not very powerful but it works OK.
 
The stock bulb won't take it, but you could use it with a RadioShat bulb rated around 7-9 volts, or some 12v automotive bulbs.

I'm using a Maglite 4d bulb right now, been working for a week. I haven't put the replacement bulb from Norman in there yet.

Cabinfever1977 said:
Walmart has a 6v $3 latern that might work.
Click to expand...
 
I never actually tryed any bulbs yet, cause ive been using a battery to power my lights.

I should try some that i have laying around, if any work i wil post it here.
 
Posted by scotchmo

You do not need a recitifier diode when using LEDs (the LED is a diode!).

It works better with a bridge unless you enjoy the flickering and or epilectic fits. A non polarized cap would help..

You do not have to run a floating ground when using a half wave rectifier diode.

This is Ok for a battery setup...- then to a fully isolated DC circuit.

Full wave is double the power but it robs even more voltage and, unlike the half wave rectifier, the full wave rectifier requires an isolated (floating) ground.

LED's are current, not voltage based devices, so the voltage drop is not an issue. The isolated ground is only a second insulated wire anyway.
 
wildemere said:
Posted by scotchmo

You do not need a recitifier diode when using LEDs (the LED is a diode!).

It works better with a bridge unless you enjoy the flickering and or epilectic fits. A non polarized cap would help..

You do not have to run a floating ground when using a half wave rectifier diode.

This is Ok for a battery setup...- then to a fully isolated DC circuit.

Full wave is double the power but it robs even more voltage and, unlike the half wave rectifier, the full wave rectifier requires an isolated (floating) ground.

LED's are current, not voltage based devices, so the voltage drop is not an issue. The isolated ground is only a second insulated wire anyway.
Click to expand...

All true but there is still a problem. Because of the way the coil is designed, drawing power during both phases of the AC cycle weakens the spark, often to the point of killing the engine. The same problem exists with a full wave rectifier or bridge. A ½ wave rectifier eliminates this problem. Unfortunately, the ½ wave rectifier provides a very wimpy power source for running your electrical system. A battery then becomes a necessity. The ½ wave output is then used merely to trickle charge the battery.
 
I agree with all that, it all depends on what type of setup you need and your riding patterns.

A W04 or similar is over 100 times lighter and smaller than a battery and easier to mount, it could even fit inside the mag case. Its fine for occasional use and when drawing less than 400mA it wont affect the spark system.

For a regular night rider a battery powered setup is probably better. A ½ wave rectification charging system would be of little benefit unless your riding heaps of hours with the lights off.

Better to just mount a suitable battery on a quick release setup and charge it on the bench, at work where the power is free...
 
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