What mod should I get.

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by JOBAfunky, Jun 19, 2014.

  1. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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  2. Davezilla

    Davezilla New Member

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    Cool... Thanks... added to my wishlist... I've seen those seats in a local bike shop but they want way too much for them, the shop I saw it in wanted almost $40 for the seat but that shop was in the more ritzy part of town and they sold mostly high end road bikes... They did have a fat tire mountainbike there but it was outrageously expensive like the rest of the stuff they had there.
     
  3. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    You're welcome sir,

    Yeah with tax they are $30 at my local bike shop, I have always bought mine there just to help them out, they're nice people and I try to shop at home for a lot of things when I can even if its a bit more, it helps my local economy and plus I get to have good conversation when I go down there most of the time, we talk bikes, politics and world events most of the time since thats what the fella seems to have on his mind a lot, plus I enjoy some of that conversation myself from time to time.

    map
     
  4. JOBAfunky

    JOBAfunky New Member

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  5. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    Yes they are.... easy on the back side....!

    Map
     
  6. JOBAfunky

    JOBAfunky New Member

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    Ok, got an NGK B6HS in there. Unfortunately I half stripped the hole when putting it in. Used a little Teflon tape on the middle of the plug and now it seals. Going to see if Bikeberry will do a warranty replacement on the head since the hole was not run straight in the first place.( had to tighten too much to keep it from leaking) I ran it at gap .03 and it was better and took it up to .04 and I get that hum about 50% of the time now. Should I make it any wider? Or is that crazy talk?
     
  7. Davezilla

    Davezilla New Member

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    Ouch... once the threads are stripped, the head is pretty much done for... You could helicoil repair it, but the cost of the helicoils and the tools to install it would be more than the head is worth IMO.

    Option B is to get a Puch Hi Hi head from treatland for about $40 which will help keep your engine cool way way better than the stock head, or you could get a Fred head. Fred heads cost around $70 but they're really nice looking and excellent for keeping an engine cool. there's a new head out called the Diamond head which is really nice too, it's pretty much the same as the Fred head except that it's square instead of round so it matches the engine a little closer... Any of these heads will give you better cooling ability so adding more power later is nice and safe to do.

    Best options are (budgetwise)
    A... Try to get a warranty return - Free, Hopefully...
    B... Puch Hi Hi $40
    C... Fred head or Diamond head $70 to 80

    Best options (performance and cooling wise)
    A... Fred head or Diamond head
    B... Puch Hi Hi
    C... Stock head, modified by sanding about 1mm off the combustion chamber side
    D... stock

    The Puch and the Fred head have been tried out and the performance and temperature difference isn't really that big, but the price difference and appearance difference is there so it depends a lot on budget and your personal taste, I'm assuming the same for the new Diamond heads as they are very well built as well.
     
  8. JOBAfunky

    JOBAfunky New Member

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    wait. can you tell me a little more about what you mean by sanding the stock head down and what exactly that's supposed to do? I've never heard of that one before.
     
  9. Davezilla

    Davezilla New Member

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    It's a way to get more compression out of a stock head, it can be milled down, but since it's small and pretty easy to do by using a piece of sandpaper over a sheet of glass, you can sand away about 1mm or 040" to boost your compression up and it'll give you more power.
    The idea is to close up the squish clearance between the piston top and the combustion chamber so there's only about a 1/2 to 1mm gap between the piston crown and the combustion chamber, you'll also need a compression tester so you can target for about 140 psi cylinder pressure, but typically, you can shave off about 1mm safely without going too far on a stock head. On the performance heads tho it's better to use thinner head gaskets like the copper ones Juice sells, but on the stock heads, they need all the help they can get since their combustion chambers tend to be huge...
     
  10. JOBAfunky

    JOBAfunky New Member

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    D'oh Plug came loose/blew out on my way back to work from lunch. Spark plug boot got melted a little. Finally got a hold of BikeBerry and they won't take the return. So it looks like I'm ordering a replacement head, but to get $10 off I need to order $40 more of stuff. Was hoping to get some feedback on their exhaust systems in a new thread but nothing yet. 'Heavy sigh' It'd be nice if it wasn't one thing or another on this old bike.
     
  11. allen standley

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    Excellent! Thanks again Davezilla... You guys in Texas are awesome!
     
  12. allen standley

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    Hang in there JOBA you are in the right place for answers. Sanding the head professionally known as lapping the head. Find a pane of glass 12x12 or whatever and spray down the back side of a sheet of 400 wet/dry sand paper with spray glue. With cylinder head in hand, using circular motion the goal is to sand down the squish band so it is even and shiny. I usually count 100 motions, then twist the head grabbing each quarter of the 4 sided head (400 motions) altogether. I use Marvels mystery oil as a lubricant on the sandpaper surface and with each interval I mop up the sand paper with paper towel and apply a fresh dousing of marvels. This works well for me. Others may respond with diff techniques that are equally effective.
     
  13. allen standley

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    As far as the $40 get a spare Magneto, CDI (ya kno the black box) and if your already broken in and running with an NT Carb, checkout the BB expansion/muffler. My son has one on his bike and loves it! good luck!
     
    #33 allen standley, Jun 23, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2014
  14. JOBAfunky

    JOBAfunky New Member

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    did he get the speed demon on the other one?
     
  15. Davezilla

    Davezilla New Member

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    Woah... Bikeberry prices are kinda high... maybe buy from Dax and forget teh discount, his prices seem better... The pipe you're talking about is on this page, and there's also a new head on the same page for $18... Check it out and compare the prices... http://thatsdax.com/ENGINE_KIT_PARTS_PAGE_2.html
     
  16. Davezilla

    Davezilla New Member

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    I do have a stock head sitting here on my desk and I've never used it because I bought a Fred head the same time I ordered my engine kit, I'll never use it so you can have it, just pay the shipping and it's yours.
     
  17. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    You beat me to the punch Dave, I think I have a New straight plug head I was gonna make the same offer with since im not sure Ill ever use it, if funds are ever tight on a build Ill still probably order at least a Puch hi hi 70cc head.

    Aweful nice of ya Dave.... bravo!

    Map
     
  18. Davezilla

    Davezilla New Member

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    Mine's the slant plug type, I know I'll never use it myself, but if it helps someone else, he's welcome to it...

    Yeah, I'd buy a Puch head if money was tight over here too so this one is just collecting dust. I really like the Fred head I got on mine right now, that thing is rock solid and I've never seen it get over 320 degrees after a hard ride. I can assume the new Diamond head is about the same way too and wouldn't mind trying one for whatever I build next. I know one thing for sure, my next frame will be a cruiser after all the issues and fab work I had to do to shoe horn that engine into a small frame mountainbike...
     
  19. JOBAfunky

    JOBAfunky New Member

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    Either of you have a Paypal account?
     
  20. Davezilla

    Davezilla New Member

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    send me a PM for the paypal account and your info
     

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