What dosent suck on these bikes??

It probably took a lot of trial and error to make these parts as cheap as possible and yet still work if done correctly.
 
just a quik comment on torqueing bolts .

why do you think wrenches get shorter as they get smaller ?

good quality regular length allen wrenches are the length that they are for a reason . you will find that the average person ( without a pipe on the wrench ) will achieve , very close to the proper torque on any given allen head screw , when tightening ( again , without a pipe on the wrench ) when you tighten to the point where the wrench starts to flex .

but of course you have to take the torque capacity of the material you are bolting to into consideration , white metal after all , is just that , white metal , easy to pour into a mould , and easy to damage .

don,t believe me about the wrenches , test it against a tourque wrench .

torquing ( nuts ) might be a bit difficult using an allen wrench , but here is a helpful tip .
use regular lenth tools and don,t put a pipe on the end of the wrench .
 
"what does'nt suck on these bikes" is the enjoyment and freedom you get with each and every ride! to get out of the house, to go to a buddy's, to the store, a way to work, or some weekend fun! after you get rid of the gremlins, they are a blast to ride, I get a smile from ear to ear. especially when going past the gas station! the mileage doesnt stink either!
 
Outrunner said:
I also do the same as you do Venice, only because we have the "feel" for
what the difference is between firmly snug, too tight, too lose or whatever. That
ability is really acquired through experience or training I believe.
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That feel is the bolt/stud stretching. Tighten as normal, apply pressure until you feel a slight give, STOP. That is how tight it should be. The other answer is, how tight was it when you took it apart? Make it about that tight when you put it back. One exception is spark plugs, I always angle torque them to about 90 degrees .
 
Title cracked me up. Just screams of the frustration they can bring, lol

I often wonder if the manufactures of the kits read the forums. I know I would! A small shipment of 2 stroke kits was about $40 per unit shipped last time I checked. So they must shake their heads. "Cheaper, better, faster. Pick 2" The design is brilliant so can get away with lesser materials. I have never replaced a stud and only recently started using locktite. Think I did strip a stud once, but it was moved alot but still, my doing. Did the math once and guestimated it costs about 12 cents a mile.

I am not suggesting these should be primary transportation 'cause I would probably lose my job, lol. But for hrs of fun/lessons, 4 to 6K miles. Price wise, great deal.
 
Toecutter66 said:
That feel is the bolt/stud stretching. Tighten as normal, apply pressure until you feel a slight give, STOP. That is how tight it should be. The other answer is, how tight was it when you took it apart? Make it about that tight when you put it back. One exception is spark plugs, I always angle torque them to about 90 degrees .
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I'm sorry but I'm going to have to disagree with your suggestions here for the benefit of those with limited mechanical experience. If you tighten until you feel a give then you've probably gone too far. As for tightening spark plugs if what you mean by, "90 degree angle torque" I assume you mean you give it a quater turn after finger tight. That also can be too much and on aluminum heads that can spell trouble. Plugs should be tightened enough to squish the metal washer then just a slight bit more. The fasteners provided in most kits utilize lock washers. To properly tighten the engine mount, intake and exhaust bolts/studs/nut, you should tighten just enough to flatten the lock washer then a small amout of torque added, make that a very small amount. Typically we're dealing with 6mm fasteners, some are smaller and the cylinder studs can be 8mm. Over torquing and constant re tightening is the biggest cause of fastener failure with these kits. That and mounting the engine in rubber. Your suggestions can add to those problems. Nothing personal, just want to protect our newbie builders.
Tom
 
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im new to these engines but a mechanic (printing by trade) and i have to agree with 2door on the torque issue
E
 
Everythings great on my bike and engine and they were cheap to buy and maintain.
Wonderful gas mileage and speed and still starts up every time.
If you pick a good bike and take your time when installing the engine kit, it will give you many many miles of fun.
 
Toecutter66 said:
That feel is the bolt/stud stretching. Tighten as normal, apply pressure until you feel a slight give, STOP. That is how tight it should be. The other answer is, how tight was it when you took it apart? Make it about that tight when you put it back. One exception is spark plugs, I always angle torque them to about 90 degrees .
Click to expand...

When you feel a slight give thats when its about to strip out! btw you tighten a spark plug until it feels tight, but you don't reef on it.
 
To JON THE GREAT how long did it take for them to brake from slipping the clutch to kill the motor ive been doing this for a very long time and its been fine, ive replaced my stock studs with some better quality studs i bought at BOLTs PLUS and i havent had any more braking isues since but im glad i read your post and i better fix my kill switch before the studs go
 
It took about a month to break the studs the first time and then just a couple days the second time. With better studs you should be ok, cuz i haven't broken mine yet since I upgraded them, im keepin' my fingers crossed!
 
yah i learned the whole stud situation with my first build i broke 2 and then i replaced them with those black heat treated or really really strong allen head bolts my dad got from his work (he designs mining equipment so they have some good stuff there) and still i had one snap flush with the motor and i couldnt get it out as it was way harder then the nice soft metal around it ended up butchering the whole so i cut out a chunk of the the motor were the stud went into and i bolted a little block of aluminium to where i had cut out the chunck of the motor, drilled a whole tapped in my new thread and covered it with jb weld and it held up afterwards i sold it to a drunk he crashed the bike a bunch of times and it was still fine :P all the new studs i use i find they have flex in them, when i buy the 3 foot rod i can easily flex it and ive been using this rod to make all my studs and i have never had one brake :D
 
my 2 cents

spit_fire said:
yah i learned the whole stud situation with my first build i broke 2 and then i replaced them with those black heat treated or really really strong allen head bolts my dad got from his work (he designs mining equipment so they have some good stuff there) and still i had one snap flush with the motor and i couldnt get it out as it was way harder then the nice soft metal around it ended up butchering the whole so i cut out a chunk of the the motor were the stud went into and i bolted a little block of aluminium to where i had cut out the chunck of the motor, drilled a whole tapped in my new thread and covered it with jb weld and it held up afterwards i sold it to a drunk he crashed the bike a bunch of times and it was still fine :P all the new studs i use i find they have flex in them, when i buy the 3 foot rod i can easily flex it and ive been using this rod to make all my studs and i have never had one brake :D
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A 3 foot rod of 6m will flex. Most things that long and that skinny will. When I re-studed my engine I made sure that the studs were snug but not super tight into the motor. that way they weren't completely bottomed out.I also used blue locktite on the motor end and lock washers and double nuts on the bracket side. I'm no expert on these by any means but (fingers crossed) I have yet to snap or strip anything. Thanks and good luck! Evan
 
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