Weed Wacker Revisited.

I think that's what I did last to the wheel and it did no good at all. Of course I did not pull the brake pieces out I can never get those things back. I'll have to check it out since I pulled the motor off that wheel this afternoon I can clean it grease and adjust it a hundred times before I put another motor on it.
 
Sounds like greasy fun, Deacon!

I've got to make or buy the pin type tool for taking apart the 6gear rear hubs.
Too many wheels around here with shabby bearings that probably just need to be cleaned and greased properly.

But I got brakes working well enough, today... So tomorrow I'll get the skyhawk making smoke and take it for at least a short spin even if the fenders are flapping... long as I got brakes!
rc
 
I did two coaster wheels today and yes that's what it needed. I even replaced the bearing on the brake side without they darn things falling on the floor. I think I have the touch now, well I'm going to ride one right now and find out.

The brake and a wheel that spins are most important to me.
 
I have been pleasantly surprised at how well this engine has held up. usually by this time I have destroyed the engine. I even moved the motor to the 20" bike I bought for the wheels, then decided to fix the old wheels and try to use it for the small ww type bikes. I had thought I might mount my spare blower motor on it, but then I bought another big motor for my (maybe) trip. So I needed the bike with the bigger frame for the bigger motor. The WW engine works just fine on the 20" so far.
 
The lifan from lowracer. I'm going to do the lift-direct friction drive- with it on a twenty inch wheel so I can mount it. without having it throw me down and jump on me
 
Great you will like it. BTW the blue ones have a 5/8 shaft that is nearly a half inch longer that the black engine. Makes it a little easier.
 
I was hoping it had the 5/8 shaft. I am more familiar with that size from the greyhound I tried to use. It is a nice beefy shaft. I hope that by staying with the 20" wheel I will be able to get on and off the bike without falling.

By the way when I moved the WW motor to the 20" junker bike I had planned to throw out I made the attachment a the seat post. It seems to be okay what little I have ridden it, but it also doesn't seem to be be secure enough for the larger engine.
 
Deacon do yourself a favor and let me make you a roller. You can get the washers and clutch collar locally. The biggest I would advise considering the hills you encounter is probably 2".
 
Thanks but I think I'm going to stay with the steel one I have sitting in the box from the greyhound. I really did like the way it worked. I will inspect it closely to make sure it is sound and runs true. I really want to stay with it. I do appreciate the offer though. I am looking forward to trying this motor. At least I Know that the gas tank won't leak right out of the box.
 
more changes and experiments with the WW bike. I changed the 6" chain ring on the 20" bike for an 8" and it makes a world of difference. I can easily keep the speed up in most cases now. Just a few pedals and the motor is back up to speed. With the 6" I had to wait till the bike had almost stalled before I could catch the freewheel. This is much better.

I also added a second scissor hinge to the motor side of the bike. I had tried to get by without one and it just won't work the motor is not secure and eventually it vibrates. The hinges does a very good job of cutting down on that.

Even though I cleaned and adjusted that wheel I had from the cheap thrift store bike, it gave up again. I decided that it was time to spring for a new one. The one I have on the WW bike is fine but I am about to start a bigger bike for it I want a good wheel.
 
I am having the worst time getting the rear bearing cone adjusted on this bike. The wheel is either loose or the pedals turn with the wheel. I adjusted the wheel again this morning, maybe this one is the one that will work.

Along that same line. I had to junk the cheap thrift store bike wheel because I stripped the threads on the axle. I expect that somewhere long the line I put the wrong bolt on it. Anyway I called the bike shop here and the guy said since he knows me, he will make me a real deal in a new wheel. Forty bucks for just the rear wheel. **** I can buy a new bike for 60 right now. I'm going to start haunting the thrift store again. At least the bike shop guy told me what to watch out for in a rear wheel.

I figure I will pick up a bike with a better wheel. Now that I know how, I'll grease the bearings, without the brakes coming out hopefully, and clean it up before I try to use it. Just have to keep working on the proper adjustment for the rear wheel, the front one was easy.
 
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Not to sound assuming here, but the difficulty in adjustment that you are describing is typical of having the bearings installed backwards.
The covered side of the bearing cage faces outwards, towards the axle nuts.
It is very common and all too easy to get them backwards upon reassembly.
 
if is possible to do it wrong, I most likely did, lol. I'll give it a chance again today, since I readjusted it after my ride yesterday, then pull the wheel and check.

One of the good things about friction drive is how easy it is to pull the drive wheel and reinstall it.
 
Hey Deacon,

Is this the right one to use?
Tnx
rc
 

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Roger that, CB2... I was just wantin' to know if it was same as Deacon's and if all the same stuff would apply. At least I hope it will !

...then I just saw where he apparently has had a serious health prob.
NOT good.

I sure hope he comes out of it OK...

I'm layin low today myself... just didn't feel up to snuff, so I ain't doin nuthin.
Band of Brothers all day.
rc
 
same engine but it came in two different drive shafts. One with a clutch and one without. The one with the clutch has a long shaft the one without clutch has a short shaft. Short shaft is what I build this with. Long shaft has the same thread on half way down the shaft as a coaster bike axle. It's even easier to hook up.
 
Tnx Deacon!
All I know abt this ryobi is that it's got compression and was too cheep to leave it behind!

Gosh I hope yah heal up well...
Best
rc
 
Im on the mend. When you take it down you will see a clutch bell or just and extencion piece.
 
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