Using a SkyHawk 66cc Angle Fire at over 8000 Feet

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oldtimer54

Member
Hi guys I just installed my new Silver Grubee SkyHawk 66cc Angle Fire Bike Engine Kit with a shift kit.
Has anyone got one these kits to run well at over 8000 feet? Ive been trying diffrent jets but if I jet it so it seems to have all the power it should I have to keep the choke on all the way if I turn off the choke just a little the motor revs to high. The throttle does little. If I jet it just one size bigger it seems like a dog and has a hard time getting me up my road (little hill) Iam about 185lb how fast should this motor be being brand new? Should I use a diffrent carb? This is a Speed carb. Any help would be great.
 
Ok Ive tryed rejeting the carb tried all the clip settings on the needle and Ive takin the SBP shift kit apart to make sure its not binding. I can now peddle much easer (had to add a link to a chain) but the motor still has a hard time getting up my dirt road with out my peddling? Iam using 8oz of 2stroke oil per gal of gas to break in the motor. I have no ideas as to what to do? Is 8oz of oil per gal gas right? Does anyone have any ideas? When I can Iam going to try to get a better plug and am wondering about premium gas? Or is this what I should expect with a new motor? Has anyone used the new SPEED carb up here? I realy need to get this bike going as I need it to get to town. Anyone else think I should get one of the old stock carbs or is there a diffrent ver carb that would be better?? What would the BEST carb I can use on this motor? Where can I buy stock or a High Performance carb that would work with out any mods to hook it up and make it run? Any ideas? Thanks
 
Where in CO are you? I've ridden at over 8k ft with stock carb with no problems other than idle to half-throttle were slightly rich.
 
I ordered the stock NT carb it should be here tomorrow. I just installed a bike computer and when I start the motor the computer goes nuts? I have the CDI as far away as I can from the computer and its wires same with the wires from the magneto for the computer and its wires. Does anyone know any way to get around this problem? Thanks
 
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I remember reading a post about bike computers going hawire but I cant seem to find it? It seems to be the magneto? Someone must have gone through this allready by now? Cant anyone help out?
 
The electric signal going through the wires between the magneto and cdi can interfere with alot of the bicycle computers, not all of them but alot of them.
It is called "radio frequency interference" or RFI.
 
Whereas I and a friend had big problems with interference until we swapped out the plug and replaced it with the resistor version, the NGK BR6HS.

There's a lot of variables I suspect, instrument location, wiring location and method, perhaps even frame composition... but the "R" plug fixed that right up :)


What fixed it up even better is when I belatedly remembered I already owned a Garmin Geko and got rid of the speedo altogether. I know they're not the ten bucks or so - but you can get a Geko GPS for around $60ish if you hunt around and not only does it not suffer from RFI - it even tells you your actual speed... amongst other things lol
 
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Ya I have a GPS that would fit but it doesnt hold power very long so Ill have to rig up a 12 volt charger and a Battery. Iam going to try a balun and a NGK BR6HS first. Thanks guys.
 
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Really? What type of batteries does it take? My Geko takes 2 tiny AAA batteries which is kinda annoying, but I picked up two sets of sweet new NiMH rechargeables for it and just one set will last for a coupla days of riding... unless I forget to turn it off at night lol
 
everytime i see this thread i always think someone's building an airplane with a chinee motor...
 
Thread hijack:
Very cool idea, oldtimer54.
I have been contemplating a small 10 plate dry cell like what EBN/ Scarecrow labs has available.
 
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