Tries but won’t start. need help!
- Thread starter Nnn
- Start date
I know why it warped. It was because when i first got the bike I tighten the bolts down like an idiot. Not in a cross pattern and not evenly. Now I am going to order a new one but also want to sand this one. What grit sand paper would I use for sanding a head?
Well interesting enough I got the bike started at a low biking speed. When I pedal really fast it starts for a bit but then stops runninv when I slow down. I then decided to release the clutch at like 17kmh and it started up no problem. Have zero clue why this is the case but not complaing.
I honestly lost myself at this point as well. This motor is the most inconsistent thing ever. Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn’t, sometimes it runs good sometimes it doesn’t and I can’t understand why. I tried to start my engine at low speeds and it worked good. I then shut the engine off for 2 minutes went back to try to start it and it would start for my life. It was still hot and the fuel valve was off while my engine was also off so it didn’t flood. I have no clue what’s wrong with it and why starting this thing is literally like trying to get Jesus to sin. It is impossible.
I think your right bit the problem is that the nearest seller is 2 hours away from me and there's no way I'm getting to him. It has to be something simple but I can't pinpoint it. I noticed some gas leaking from the air filter. Could that make the engine impossible to start? Is there a common reason engines are hard to start like this?
I'm asking people for advice and assistance on my motorized bike and how to fix it. I then take that advice and go fix it MYSELF. No sent away to some random person to fix and give back to me and yeah I sand I wanted to take it to someone before I realized that these bikes are learning projects to mess with and maybe I would still be bending prongs if I didn't join this forum and wasn't told any better. If your not helping me or being constructive I don't wanna hear it
When I have the carb off the engine and check for open an closed float valve, I do this. With it fairly dry I have the bowl off and see that mechanically the float and valve work, but also hold the carb up right and level and blow into the fuel inlet. I expect to hear a hissing as air from my breath goes through the carb. Then I turn the carb upside down and level and do the same and expect to not hear any hissing of any air going through the carb. My breath in my lungs should not escape any in this case. If it does, then the valve or the seat could be worn. Some seats are replaceable. Looking at the valve and seat with a 15x magnifier might show pits in the seals.
To note that this only lets me know that the float valve can stop the fuel flow, but the height of the float adjustment is something that is an adjustment that also may be necessary. The measurements and adjustment for that others would maybe have a better idea. I usually end up taking it apart and putting it back together again a few times to get it right if it is not set right.
I know this additional comment may not help now, but just thought worth mentioning anyway. If you get into working on engines enough and have another whole running engine of the same type, you can be more assured that a part off of the running engine swapped into the problem engine can at some point be better than a new part. I just got a whole new carb for a weedeater 2 stroke engine and noticed it has what looked like fuel in it. I would hope that it was just tested and would have been better if had been dried out too. If it was used, I could not tell that it was worn in anyway. Still too hot to go outside yet to work on it unless I get up real early. Going to 110 is no time to mess around with this.
To note that this only lets me know that the float valve can stop the fuel flow, but the height of the float adjustment is something that is an adjustment that also may be necessary. The measurements and adjustment for that others would maybe have a better idea. I usually end up taking it apart and putting it back together again a few times to get it right if it is not set right.
I know this additional comment may not help now, but just thought worth mentioning anyway. If you get into working on engines enough and have another whole running engine of the same type, you can be more assured that a part off of the running engine swapped into the problem engine can at some point be better than a new part. I just got a whole new carb for a weedeater 2 stroke engine and noticed it has what looked like fuel in it. I would hope that it was just tested and would have been better if had been dried out too. If it was used, I could not tell that it was worn in anyway. Still too hot to go outside yet to work on it unless I get up real early. Going to 110 is no time to mess around with this.
That's good. I did think also to say that the float if it is a hollow one that could have a small leak and gas gets inside would change the buoyancy and make it denser. If it sinks when it should not, then the valve stays open. Some people I have hear fix the metal ones with solder. The plastic ones maybe are harder to fix and just replace. Now it seems the after market carb can be low enough cost to just change it. Gaskets get worn and cutting my own from material can be done if I need something quickly and don't require a rebuild kit which is so close to the cost of a carb sometimes it is not worth it. On one carb type I saw that there was a nylon washer used to guide the linkage to the float valve which could be worn and stick. But in that case it was not that as the engine needed a little throttle above idle to start, even with choke on.
