Tries but won’t start. need help!

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle Trouble Shooting' started by Nnn, May 10, 2018.

  1. Nnn

    Nnn Member

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    If it is an air leak how the **** do i fix that? I tried the whole electrical tape thing and that made no difference so should I just buy a hp carb? And this engine vibrates like crazy even with bycicle inner tube and rubber handle grips around the engine mounts. If vibration how can I improve that
     
  2. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

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    you should have mentioned that inner tube thing a long time ago - that is probably your whole problem

    search the board for 'rubber' and you'll find a lot of fails from using it

    I use a section of PVC pipe in rear mount always and in front mount if needed.
     
  3. Nnn

    Nnn Member

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    I can’t believe how much vibration the rubber I put in made. It was like night and day. My engine can now idle at a decent rpm but is very inconsistent. It might idle for awhile or it might just stall out in a second of idleing. It has also lost a lot of low end power I feel like. I’m not sure if that’s because I started at a high rpm so it just went or if I had to pedal faster to get going or I didn’t have to pick up in the low speeds. It also has very inconsistent rpms in the low end. It will rev up and then back down and so on. I’m assuming it’s a vacuum leak. But I’m not sure how to fix that
     
  4. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

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    I'd first try to think of anything that was changed to try to get it running while it was shaking itself apart and undo all those things. These usually run acceptably right out of the box.
     
  5. Nnn

    Nnn Member

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    Well all I did was change the idle a hundred times and move the c clip up one notch. I moved it up because my spark plug turned black very quickly when I first got it running. Would it be beneficial to move the Clip back down to the second spot from the bottom?
     
  6. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

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    it is always good to try things that can be undone if they don't work - if it gets a bit better, then you know to do more of it, if it gets worse you know to go other way
     
    #26 crassius, May 17, 2018
    Last edited: May 17, 2018
  7. Nnn

    Nnn Member

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    Ok I’ll try moving the clip back down and I’ll se what happens
     
  8. Nnn

    Nnn Member

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    Well I moved the clip back down and I don’t fell too much of a difference except the low end is a little tourqier. Idle still sucks and won’t stay on unless it’s too high.
     
  9. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

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    occurs to me to wonder if you are warming up the motor before setting idle - most bikes take close to a mile to warm up a bit so the idle gets smoother

    during run-in period, I always set idle way too high to prevent stalls at stop signs
     
  10. Nnn

    Nnn Member

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    Well thank you for your help and I think I’m being too picky asking for his engine to run and idle perfect. I’ll just settle down for now and enjoy my bike. Although I have a new problem that The small gear connected to the piston is sheared but still functional. I ordered a new gear.
     
  11. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

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    yes, been seeing motors in which someone at factory forgot to grease that gear - all teeth go away in less than a week and that factory seems to always use loctite on the bolt that holds that gear, so is very hard to replace
     
  12. Nnn

    Nnn Member

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    Is there a specific grease you like yo use for you gears because my molly grease isn’t exactly cutting it. The gear is getting worse every ride and my new gear come in a month so I need some quick solutions on how to keep this gear from getting worse.
     
  13. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

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    once damaged, I think there is little to be done except replace - look carefully at large gear to be sure it isn't chewing that up because of damage to small gear - if you know someone in your area with a dead motor, these gears are all the same on all size, all year model motors
     
  14. Nnn

    Nnn Member

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    So would you say Molly grease will get the job done?
     
  15. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

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    that's what I use, but if you run the bad gear against the good gear, both may be ruined
     
  16. Nnn

    Nnn Member

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    I’m not sure if I am being paranoid but my engine runs pretty damn hot. Like when I touch it with my finger it burns in a second. It also warms up very quickly once I get it going. I don’t know I have the perfect fuel mixture because the new Nguyen I put in has a perfect tan colour. I have also heard not to run this engine too long like 20minites max but is it ok if I got around trails for an hour it only has about 60km or 40miles on it.
     
  17. Nnn

    Nnn Member

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    Well it’s been awhile but here’s were I’m at right now. I decided to keep with the stripper gear like an idiot because I was too excited not to ride my bike. A gear tooth cracked and the gear is now shredded to no teeth. After a painful removal of the shredded gear I realized there was thick metal fragments every where. I want to remove the clutch bear but don’t know how to. Is there anything I should look out for while cleaning behind that gear? Thanks
     
  18. Nnn

    Nnn Member

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    I should also mention the clutch gear is in good shape since I **** the engine off as soon as I heard a weird noise.
     
  19. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

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    puller that comes with kit will pull the clutch - might not need cleaning back there, but I'd do it anyway
     
  20. Nnn

    Nnn Member

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    I have another question about starting my bike. I find it really annoying to start my bike with the pedal clutch method while I’m in the school parking lot. A pull starter would solve this. I hear it’s very hard to start a bike with a pull starter but I’m not sure. It also has a 2 year full warrant and it literally covers everything so I’m not worried about that? Is it worth my money or should I forget about it
     

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