The Wally-Banger Special build
- Thread starter pocdragon
- Start date
pocdragon
New Member
hello all
another sweaty day working on this thing
crappy bike chain that came with the kit snapped twice just trying to start it
i hate this garbage tensioner that came with the kit too
my soultion is this:
i picked up some new heavy duty chain from TSC. unfourtunatly they only had #40 chain at the time, i remeber somone using the 40 chain so i figured it would be better having a bigger chain
the first problem with the bigger chain is it rubs the left seat stay and the spokes at the same time
so when i return the 40 chain ill get some 41 instead hopfully it would be thin enough.
so at the moment im trying to get the stock chain to work enough to atleast tune my engine WITHOUT THE TENSIONER
to get my chain the right tightness i get the stock chain back together with one less link, but after pulling the axel back i find the crank side chain and sprockets get too tight and i cant get the motor's chain tight enough
im going to add a single link to the bicycle's crank side chain so i can have enough slack to pull the other motor side chain tight without having the wheel cocked to one side and rubbing the chain
the crank side chain wont need to be as precise and kept as perfect as the motor chain needs to be im hoping this will fix my problem
talk to you all later
another sweaty day working on this thing
crappy bike chain that came with the kit snapped twice just trying to start it
i hate this garbage tensioner that came with the kit too
my soultion is this:
i picked up some new heavy duty chain from TSC. unfourtunatly they only had #40 chain at the time, i remeber somone using the 40 chain so i figured it would be better having a bigger chain
the first problem with the bigger chain is it rubs the left seat stay and the spokes at the same time
so when i return the 40 chain ill get some 41 instead hopfully it would be thin enough.
so at the moment im trying to get the stock chain to work enough to atleast tune my engine WITHOUT THE TENSIONER
to get my chain the right tightness i get the stock chain back together with one less link, but after pulling the axel back i find the crank side chain and sprockets get too tight and i cant get the motor's chain tight enough
im going to add a single link to the bicycle's crank side chain so i can have enough slack to pull the other motor side chain tight without having the wheel cocked to one side and rubbing the chain
the crank side chain wont need to be as precise and kept as perfect as the motor chain needs to be im hoping this will fix my problem
talk to you all later
IamTheBear
New Member
from i have read of other peoples post best deal with the chain is to shorten it until tight and use the tensioner on the pedal side
Hey Pocdragon,The slickest and quickest and also the Trickest way to remove the grips is with a rubber tipped air blow gun with about twenty pounds of air pressure!....Just stick the tip into the streamer hole and plug the other side with Your thumb....It'll pop right off and no oily mess!....by the way,Nice bike!....I've a Schwinn Legacy that gonna be powered with a H/F 99 cc Predator....Tigmaster....
This will work if your frame/chain stays will allow. It's a tight squeeze with the Cranbrook. I've looked at it on my bike a few times. With a #41 and 26x2.125's, you will definitely rub.
Sgt. Howard
Active Member
Seeing as you've Tposted the front this will do you no good- but as a future referance, the Grubee motors fit so perfectly onto a Cranbrick that I will shim my next build on the back mount to adjust the chain. Currently I have two of those "College Cranbricks" with the green fenders... as well as two of the 'Kareoke Cranbricks' (Japanese word that means 'tone deaf') and two of the 'Panama Jacks'... and six Grubee kits... waiting for me to get off my a$$ and do the build. Gotta knock out six 'Howard Sprocket Mounts' before I can start- I HATE the rag mount.
Yes, Ive gone into the assembly buisness. Got a backer.
the Old Sgt.
Yes, Ive gone into the assembly buisness. Got a backer.
the Old Sgt.
pocdragon
New Member
pics of your front mount SARGE please
when i mounted the motor the most level carburetor position put my rear mount right on the lower water bottle mount, which was compensated with thin rubber tube because the mount wouldnt sit flush the front extended mounting rods were too small so i used the supplyed mount which works pretty well
ruby said :
i use a t mount on my bikes never had a problem with the T mounts ............
he uses cranbrooks alot too
the double nutted thick bolt wokrs well \
but you can easily crush the front tube if you orver torque it
now if only my local tractor supply with get 41 chain in stock,,,,
when i mounted the motor the most level carburetor position put my rear mount right on the lower water bottle mount, which was compensated with thin rubber tube because the mount wouldnt sit flush the front extended mounting rods were too small so i used the supplyed mount which works pretty well
ruby said :
i use a t mount on my bikes never had a problem with the T mounts ............
he uses cranbrooks alot too
the double nutted thick bolt wokrs well \
but you can easily crush the front tube if you orver torque it
now if only my local tractor supply with get 41 chain in stock,,,,
wayne z
Active Member
where would the rear mount of the motor be in relation to the two bolts in the frame?
i rode it pretty hard for a few miles after i got it together, to adjust the handelbars where id like them and the seat an such. the wheels run true, i did grease wherever i could in the hubs and on the bearings for the steering tube.
how do i get the grip off the handelbar? is is glued or anything, i dont want to just cut it, it would be nice to use it on the twist throttle is this an easy swap?
thanks all
fedex predicted my kit will be in some time today, i cant wait to get this thing together
I work an oiled long thin awl under the grip as far as i can, Then stick the straw of the WD 40can in there and give it a shot. Then you can start twisting and pulling, It'll come off. If the weather is cool or it is very stubborn, figure out a way to heat it some to soften the rubber.
Hey cool build! I was looking for a decent looking wally bike to do my first build with. Where did you get the brake setup? I apologize in advanced if you already posted that and I missed it. If I can get the bike and the brakes cheaper than I can get this: (Defective Link Deleted) then it's worth a look. I kinda like the look of the Schwinn though. I've never done this before so I hope I don't screw it up to bad.
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yodar
New Member
I needed no adpater. The u=bold adapter with the drill thru provision that came with the motor has stood firm for over a year on mine
Who will sell me a geared 4 stroke 50CC motor to put on my next project?
Everywhere I look is out
Yodar
yodar
New Member
Thank you. My searches didnt bring them up,hence my inquiry
forgive my computer density b8t will I be able to find them without a url and only google?
yodar
Oh ok, I've got some brakes from some old Razor bikes, I'll have to see if those will work for me before I spend money on new ones. Brakes aren't that expensive any way. I'm still not sure about using a front break to stop the bike, but that's why we start off slow right?
Motorbike Wanabe
Member
Cool looking Cranbrook. I used this bike for the build of the Andian. I did change a lot but the frame, handlebars, cranks and such are still going strong after about 1800 miles and two years of riding.
I did swap out the wheels for a set of Husky bicycles' (with drum brake) and could notice a huge difference with the larger spokes. NO cracks on the welds as of yet.
I did swap out the wheels for a set of Husky bicycles' (with drum brake) and could notice a huge difference with the larger spokes. NO cracks on the welds as of yet.
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IreBo
New Member
Hay all! just wanted to share my cranny pics. thy are kinda junky bikes but if you go over all parts they are just fine. i check em out in the store, spin the wheeles and check if they are true, look for any broken/missing parts.
For a $79 bike you cant beat em! people seem to comment more on this than my other bikes and elderley folks seem to like them even with the 2 stroke noise..
The t adapter is fine although the u is better but if you use the 8mm stud t it works just fine.. manny miles with no problems... just smiles
painted the tank and it looks pretty good..im thinking of doing a metallic blue flame job (blue flames on front to tan in rear) but dont want it to get too busy looking
For a $79 bike you cant beat em! people seem to comment more on this than my other bikes and elderley folks seem to like them even with the 2 stroke noise..
The t adapter is fine although the u is better but if you use the 8mm stud t it works just fine.. manny miles with no problems... just smiles
painted the tank and it looks pretty good..im thinking of doing a metallic blue flame job (blue flames on front to tan in rear) but dont want it to get too busy looking
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