The Wally-Banger Special build

Discussion in 'Motorized Cruiser Bicycles' started by pocdragon, Jul 2, 2011.

  1. Ruby478

    Ruby478 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2011
    Messages:
    212
    Likes Received:
    0
    i got over 700 miles on my motor i gonna switch out my motor and get a new one but my bike is still going strong i have pictures of mine on my profile i dont know how to resize them or else i would post them on here
     
  2. Ruby478

    Ruby478 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2011
    Messages:
    212
    Likes Received:
    0
    the chain i use is a KMC Z Chain 410H 1/2x1/8...........it's a heavy duty bike chain never had one snap on me but i never use the master link
     
  3. Ruby478

    Ruby478 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2011
    Messages:
    212
    Likes Received:
    0
    i mean you can i just dont
     
  4. pocdragon

    pocdragon New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2011
    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    0
    hello all

    another sweaty day working on this thing

    crappy bike chain that came with the kit snapped twice just trying to start it

    i hate this garbage tensioner that came with the kit too

    my soultion is this:

    i picked up some new heavy duty chain from TSC. unfourtunatly they only had #40 chain at the time, i remeber somone using the 40 chain so i figured it would be better having a bigger chain
    the first problem with the bigger chain is it rubs the left seat stay and the spokes at the same time :-||

    so when i return the 40 chain ill get some 41 instead hopfully it would be thin enough.

    so at the moment im trying to get the stock chain to work enough to atleast tune my engine WITHOUT THE TENSIONER

    to get my chain the right tightness i get the stock chain back together with one less link, but after pulling the axel back i find the crank side chain and sprockets get too tight and i cant get the motor's chain tight enough

    im going to add a single link to the bicycle's crank side chain so i can have enough slack to pull the other motor side chain tight without having the wheel cocked to one side and rubbing the chain

    the crank side chain wont need to be as precise and kept as perfect as the motor chain needs to be im hoping this will fix my problem

    talk to you all later
     
  5. IamTheBear

    IamTheBear New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2010
    Messages:
    77
    Likes Received:
    0
    from i have read of other peoples post best deal with the chain is to shorten it until tight and use the tensioner on the pedal side
     
  6. tigmaster

    tigmaster Member

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2011
    Messages:
    139
    Likes Received:
    2
    Hey Pocdragon,The slickest and quickest and also the Trickest way to remove the grips is with a rubber tipped air blow gun with about twenty pounds of air pressure!....Just stick the tip into the streamer hole and plug the other side with Your thumb....It'll pop right off and no oily mess!....by the way,Nice bike!....I've a Schwinn Legacy that gonna be powered with a H/F 99 cc Predator....Tigmaster....
     
  7. flatblack

    flatblack New Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2011
    Messages:
    374
    Likes Received:
    0
    This will work if your frame/chain stays will allow. It's a tight squeeze with the Cranbrook. I've looked at it on my bike a few times. With a #41 and 26x2.125's, you will definitely rub.
     
  8. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2010
    Messages:
    145
    Likes Received:
    0
    Seeing as you've Tposted the front this will do you no good- but as a future referance, the Grubee motors fit so perfectly onto a Cranbrick that I will shim my next build on the back mount to adjust the chain. Currently I have two of those "College Cranbricks" with the green fenders... as well as two of the 'Kareoke Cranbricks' (Japanese word that means 'tone deaf') and two of the 'Panama Jacks'... and six Grubee kits... waiting for me to get off my a$$ and do the build. Gotta knock out six 'Howard Sprocket Mounts' before I can start- I HATE the rag mount.
    Yes, Ive gone into the assembly buisness. Got a backer.
    the Old Sgt.r.ly.usflg
     
  9. pocdragon

    pocdragon New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2011
    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    0
    pics of your front mount SARGE please

    when i mounted the motor the most level carburetor position put my rear mount right on the lower water bottle mount, which was compensated with thin rubber tube because the mount wouldnt sit flush the front extended mounting rods were too small so i used the supplyed mount which works pretty well

    ruby said :
    i use a t mount on my bikes never had a problem with the T mounts ............

    he uses cranbrooks alot too

    the double nutted thick bolt wokrs well \
    but you can easily crush the front tube if you orver torque it

    now if only my local tractor supply with get 41 chain in stock,,,,:-||
     
  10. wayne z

    wayne z New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2010
    Messages:
    1,746
    Likes Received:
    0
    I work an oiled long thin awl under the grip as far as i can, Then stick the straw of the WD 40can in there and give it a shot. Then you can start twisting and pulling, It'll come off. If the weather is cool or it is very stubborn, figure out a way to heat it some to soften the rubber.
     
  11. pocdragon

    pocdragon New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2011
    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    0
    thanks all i got the grip off a while ago
     
  12. riminicat

    riminicat New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2011
    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hey cool build! I was looking for a decent looking wally bike to do my first build with. Where did you get the brake setup? I apologize in advanced if you already posted that and I missed it. If I can get the bike and the brakes cheaper than I can get this: (Defective Link Deleted) then it's worth a look. I kinda like the look of the Schwinn though. I've never done this before so I hope I don't screw it up to bad.
     
    #32 riminicat, Jul 23, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 23, 2011
  13. yodar

    yodar New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2010
    Messages:
    147
    Likes Received:
    0
    I needed no adpater. The u=bold adapter with the drill thru provision that came with the motor has stood firm for over a year on mine

    Who will sell me a geared 4 stroke 50CC motor to put on my next project?
    Everywhere I look is out
    Yodar
     
  14. zean

    zean Member

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2010
    Messages:
    184
    Likes Received:
    1
    Hi yodar. Bicycle-Engines has the 4G belt drive 49cc 4-stroke kit and the 4-cycle 49cc engine kit with the stageIII gear box available. They will have the 5/8" shaft 49cc 4-stroke HS engine only available next week. Thankyou.
     
  15. yodar

    yodar New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2010
    Messages:
    147
    Likes Received:
    0
    Thank you. My searches didnt bring them up,hence my inquiry

    forgive my computer density b8t will I be able to find them without a url and only google?

    yodar
     
  16. pocdragon

    pocdragon New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2011
    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    0
    the bike has the coaster brake built in, the front brake was from an old mountain bike i had
    just extra parts
     
  17. riminicat

    riminicat New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2011
    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    0
    Oh ok, I've got some brakes from some old Razor bikes, I'll have to see if those will work for me before I spend money on new ones. Brakes aren't that expensive any way. I'm still not sure about using a front break to stop the bike, but that's why we start off slow right?.duh.
     
  18. SlowBalt

    SlowBalt Member

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2010
    Messages:
    759
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hay Pocdragon. If you nead any help let me know. I live in Providence, and i have a few bikes under my belt.
     
  19. Motorbike Wanabe

    Motorbike Wanabe New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2009
    Messages:
    189
    Likes Received:
    0
    Cool looking Cranbrook. I used this bike for the build of the Andian. I did change a lot but the frame, handlebars, cranks and such are still going strong after about 1800 miles and two years of riding.

    I did swap out the wheels for a set of Husky bicycles' (with drum brake) and could notice a huge difference with the larger spokes. NO cracks on the welds as of yet.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2011
    Messages:
    156
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hay all! just wanted to share my cranny pics. thy are kinda junky bikes but if you go over all parts they are just fine. i check em out in the store, spin the wheeles and check if they are true, look for any broken/missing parts.
    For a $79 bike you cant beat em! people seem to comment more on this than my other bikes and elderley folks seem to like them even with the 2 stroke noise..
    The t adapter is fine although the u is better but if you use the 8mm stud t it works just fine.. manny miles with no problems... just smiles

    painted the tank and it looks pretty good..im thinking of doing a metallic blue flame job (blue flames on front to tan in rear) but dont want it to get too busy looking

    Picture 012b.JPG

    Picture 019b.JPG

    Picture 028z.JPG

    Picture 069a.JPG
     
    #40 IreBo, Aug 2, 2011
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2011

Share This Page