The Raven
- Thread starter 16v4nrbrgr
- Start date
Ok so I got a couple KTM50 NGK-R plugs B8HS, and it still won't start, I have spark and fuel and compression, not sure wassup yet, will investigate further tonight.
That sucks she won't start. What does the plug look like after you try starting? wet, dry?
Ever have the magneto stator off? If that's on backwards(it happens), that'll cause no start too. gl.
Ever have the magneto stator off? If that's on backwards(it happens), that'll cause no start too. gl.
I think its not enough fuel, as in the float bowl never primed correctly. I'm going to try some things I read on the Dellorto manual http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/dellorto_guide/dellorto.html
and the KTM50 manual and forums regarding the base settings of 3 turns off closed for idle mixture and 1 turn off closed for idle air, I'm assuming they call 360 degrees one turn, like any sane engineer would, I've always hated the unit "turns" in carb screw tuning, lol.
It might be a thing where tipping the bike sideways and flooding the carb once to fill it up will be all it takes. Glad I put some mobil 1 on the cyl walls and sprayed a lil JB in there before all these tries. The motor has been run on a dyno, so the bottom end will be lubricated.
I think the reeds make starting it under suboptimal conditions a no go.
and the KTM50 manual and forums regarding the base settings of 3 turns off closed for idle mixture and 1 turn off closed for idle air, I'm assuming they call 360 degrees one turn, like any sane engineer would, I've always hated the unit "turns" in carb screw tuning, lol.
It might be a thing where tipping the bike sideways and flooding the carb once to fill it up will be all it takes. Glad I put some mobil 1 on the cyl walls and sprayed a lil JB in there before all these tries. The motor has been run on a dyno, so the bottom end will be lubricated.
I think the reeds make starting it under suboptimal conditions a no go.
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Yea a turn is usually 360. Maybe a shot of ether will wake'r up, but if the floats empty that won't last long.
You are using fresh gas right? Just a thought, gas barely lasts two months in the can unless using Stabilizer.
You are using fresh gas right? Just a thought, gas barely lasts two months in the can unless using Stabilizer.
Wow awesome build, youve given me ideas.. hope you got it running by now bet it would be a fun ride. Id like to ask where is the front wheel off and did those k10 forks bolt right up to the frame or was there additional fabbing required? Id like to order some off ebay.
No, its not running yet and I'm getting mega pissed. It's like the POS CDI is too weak to make it spark in the cylinder. No kill switches hooked up, nothing, this is BS, this thing hasn't popped once.
Edit: Plug tip arcing to frame X-P
Edit: Plug tip arcing to frame X-P
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Okay got it to start and run, now I gotta put something on the idle screw threads, it leaks and high idles, can't tune til its sealed.
To be honest, it sounds a lot like my HT did before when I had it running the long poo, maybe a bit louder.
Still sounds like a dirtbike, lol.
More to come!
To be honest, it sounds a lot like my HT did before when I had it running the long poo, maybe a bit louder.
Still sounds like a dirtbike, lol.
More to come!
Still arcing to the frame and misfiring, need a better boot and prolly to remove more of the frame around the plug unfortunately. Pretty insane, I thought the cdi was bad, it shocked me and its pretty damn good as far as cdi's go from the ol' jolt-o-meter, lol. It misfires and I can hear it arcing through the damn boot, don't think its gonna ride today because of the work required to rid the misfire.
But hey, it runs!
But hey, it runs!
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You can see my low tech engine temp gauge, I've got some digital "high tech" thrermocouples to use daily because it can be shut off. It says to remove it from the meat, ahh it'll be fine, lol, so far I've only seen about 140 degrees F idling it.
I managed to get it to stop arcing to the frame by opiening up the gusset relief for the plug more, and using a silver/copper silicone insulated coil wire and silicone plug boot, and using an axle protector from shipping as a frame grommet, as well as spraying the hole with liquid electrical tape and filling the backside of the hole with neoprene. WHen the plug top is close to steel you need to insulate well and make the plug the lowest resistance gap.
I couldn't get the clutch to engage even at the limiter using Redline D4 ATF, opened it up and respaced the pins outward by about .0034" with the 1/4" hardened washers from the HF machine screw assortment box. With only about only 15 thou or so til engagement now, and the washers still ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) it should be progressive and come on early, which I care more about than overall power, I wanna cruise at first anyways.
Glad I made these tools, they make clutch removal straightforward. I decided to make a gasket of sorts with the black silicone by waxing the clutch cover edge and siliconing the engine, now after it warms up I'll have a permanent automatic gasket for if I want to play with the clutch more.
An interesting fact:
This engine is so balanced I could run it with the engine mount bolts loose to access the plug easily today, without the frame vibrating much at all!
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Well there's several ironic things depending how you look at it lol, anyways
She's a motorbike! Took the maiden voyage to the post office, The clutch picks up damn near redline but its mega progressive. I gotta go get some crappy atf to put in it, this redline stuff makes the clutch slip so much, it would be great for racing but I sound like a drag bike taking off! lol
I also need to stuff two more stainless brillos in the muffler, its too loud, I want to use it everyday.
Now I can put the Schwinn Stingray emblem back on the frame and polish up the Mercedes star to stick on the forks
She's a motorbike! Took the maiden voyage to the post office, The clutch picks up damn near redline but its mega progressive. I gotta go get some crappy atf to put in it, this redline stuff makes the clutch slip so much, it would be great for racing but I sound like a drag bike taking off! lol
I also need to stuff two more stainless brillos in the muffler, its too loud, I want to use it everyday.
Now I can put the Schwinn Stingray emblem back on the frame and polish up the Mercedes star to stick on the forks
I picked up some Redline friction modifier which I'm going to try and use at their recommended ratio, and add a stainless puff to the exhaust to quiet it down, I don't want to get banned from riding it because its a ridiculous drag bike currently, lol.
If that doesn't work it'll need a stack adjustment or some hardended washers that are thicker to shim out the pegs.
If that doesn't work it'll need a stack adjustment or some hardended washers that are thicker to shim out the pegs.
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Just got back from the first high speed ride, if my speedometer is correct I just did about 60mph effortlessly, it rides rock steady! The directional stability from the heavy alloy with balloon tire on the k10's is unreal, and I have so much grip I can use both front brakes to whoa it down simultaneously along with the rear brake. The rear still needs adjustment, as it doesn't engage enough rotor.
The clutch on this thing is weird as heck, it acts like its glazed or something, takes forever for it to get going to speed like it won't grab unless the throttle's pinned, and I need to pedal, but I can go 60mph according to the cable speedo which is set up for 20" wheels, these balloon tires make the wheels almost 26" diameter and I was wrapping needle. I went past a sheriff and was worried I would get pulled since I was going along at 35 to claim the lane.
The clutch on this thing is weird as heck, it acts like its glazed or something, takes forever for it to get going to speed like it won't grab unless the throttle's pinned, and I need to pedal, but I can go 60mph according to the cable speedo which is set up for 20" wheels, these balloon tires make the wheels almost 26" diameter and I was wrapping needle. I went past a sheriff and was worried I would get pulled since I was going along at 35 to claim the lane.
So I think the speedometer must be optimistic by 5-7 mph, today the "WOW" wore off and I went for another ride of about 10 miles.
I think it would make crazy power if I pulled the stuffing out. It would also make me go deaf, lol. Its okay right now.
The air fuel ratio looks good on the plug, and I checked and regreased the rear wheel.
The CRF50 brakes could use ceramic pads instead of the crap on it now, and some more adjustment. The scalloped rotors eat pad like crazy.
I'm pretty happy though, it won't do really steep hills with no run up though because of clutch slip, on the other hand on regular roads I can keep up with cars, stop and go will suck for sure, lol. I gotta pedal up to about 10-15 mph to get to to the take up point. I don't know whether the pads will wear faster or the spring washers will flatten out first, I think they're supposed to wear out in tandem to self adjust, at least that's how I'd design it.
I think it would make crazy power if I pulled the stuffing out. It would also make me go deaf, lol. Its okay right now.
The air fuel ratio looks good on the plug, and I checked and regreased the rear wheel.
The CRF50 brakes could use ceramic pads instead of the crap on it now, and some more adjustment. The scalloped rotors eat pad like crazy.
I'm pretty happy though, it won't do really steep hills with no run up though because of clutch slip, on the other hand on regular roads I can keep up with cars, stop and go will suck for sure, lol. I gotta pedal up to about 10-15 mph to get to to the take up point. I don't know whether the pads will wear faster or the spring washers will flatten out first, I think they're supposed to wear out in tandem to self adjust, at least that's how I'd design it.
Nice bike. What a monumental build. You got skills for sure.
I just thought I'd mention I'm running Red Line D4 in my Tomos, and I couldn't tell any difference from the stock fluid. The clutch feels about the same.
I also run Red Line 75/90 in my Sportster, and the clutch works great in it too.
I just thought I'd mention I'm running Red Line D4 in my Tomos, and I couldn't tell any difference from the stock fluid. The clutch feels about the same.
I also run Red Line 75/90 in my Sportster, and the clutch works great in it too.
Thanks for your kindness Biknut!
I'm glad that the D4 is working out for you, I like how it's locally available at NAPA auto parts because I'm tired of running around to specialty retailers for all this stuff. Same reason why I'm using Lucas two stroke oil, its just easy, lol. If you want more grip out of your fluid you can try a squirt of their limited slip additive, that helped a bit with lower speed takeoff. The clutch is picking up smoothly around 10mph now.
I think the synthetic oil run at 250cc with a slippy clutch should work well, as long as the stones aren't wearing too quickly. I'll drain and inspect the oil next week, the case was full of crud from the factory break-in so its worth cleaning out again to see what type of wear is occurring.
I might get a 56t sprocket for it if it turns out to need more torque and less speed, I'd like to try a commute first, then decide on the gearing.
I'm glad that the D4 is working out for you, I like how it's locally available at NAPA auto parts because I'm tired of running around to specialty retailers for all this stuff. Same reason why I'm using Lucas two stroke oil, its just easy, lol. If you want more grip out of your fluid you can try a squirt of their limited slip additive, that helped a bit with lower speed takeoff. The clutch is picking up smoothly around 10mph now.
I think the synthetic oil run at 250cc with a slippy clutch should work well, as long as the stones aren't wearing too quickly. I'll drain and inspect the oil next week, the case was full of crud from the factory break-in so its worth cleaning out again to see what type of wear is occurring.
I might get a 56t sprocket for it if it turns out to need more torque and less speed, I'd like to try a commute first, then decide on the gearing.
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Well this is a case of me thinking like a man and not reading the label, lol. I read the LSD friction modifier additive and it's a friction reducer, so what I'm doing with it is prolly raising the stall speed and just generating more power through revs. That's why I need this dang analog tach to work! lol
