The Epic an electric tri car.

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indian22

Well-Known Member
Dec 31, 2014
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You know I'm on board for the sidecar Steve.

The case is coming along well. More food for thought. I doubled two fins at the top welded with a couple of rosette welds. matched heads up with those doubled fins and drilled, then tapped to secure the head bolts which for my motor two of these bolts on each cylinder are used to secure the top motor mount. The double plate gives ample threading to hold the stress on the motor mount. This method also prevents seeing the bolts between the top fins if care is taken to cut the bolts to proper length and/or use washers to allow a clean fit. It can't be detected unless you stand on your head & know what you're looking for. Very sanitary, simple and robust. Adds only an 1/8" to the total height height.

Glad you've got the carb figured out as it will really add to the completed look. On my setup I had no choice to even use a nut tacked in place under the top fin because the cylinder tube was right where the head bolt pattern fell.

Rick C.
 

fasteddy

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Feb 13, 2009
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British Columbia Canada
Hi Rick,
Same problem I have. The cylinder is just on the outside of the bolt hole in the head. The double fin is an excellent idea. The way out of a problem for sure.
Supposed to rain tomorrow but here you have to wait until tomorrow to see just what the weather will be to be certain. If it's dry I will weld the second fin on the top and tap them.

Parts are coming for the carb and I decided to alter the intake manifold so I may be able to use the carb I bought though I think the fake one may be better. I'll decide when the parts are in hand.

The sidecar is it. My nephew redid a bike his sister had when they were kids for his daughter with 48 spoke wheels and candy apple red metallic paint. I'll have to ask my brother if there is any of the mahogany left over after I built my sidecar. I'd like to build another one. Should work well with the bike. Light tube frame for the sidecar and the kid should be good to go.

I would imagine the only passengers in the sidecar will be her dolls and teddy bears. I can size the car so that's all that fits.

Steve.
 

indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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Steve sorry I hadn't shared the cylinder head mount tip with you earlier. Hope it didn't slow you down.

Welding the base plate to the cylinder tube from the backside is actually the cleanest presentation even if you had sufficient room to work from the top.

Having a removable cylinder head with a center top spark plug location can also aid with motor mounting in tight frame space. mount plug in head prior to mounting saves 1/2" top clearance.

Great progress being made Steve let me know if situations arise that cause??

I'll mention motor cooling in a completely closed space. If you recall I left my motor case partially open on the bottom & the motor case vents on the side cases exposed to air circulation as well, then added side covers that are also open on the bottom.

There is no way you folks up North have the desert heat we have in the Indian Territory, but air cooled motors still get too hot to be totally enclosed during continuous running. Controller needs to also be in the air stream for case cooling and each battery requires at least a little space around it when enclosed in a separate housing. We hit stretches of weather occasionally of 10 to 30 days over 100 degree F., though we've not experienced these for several years now, so heat is a big deal in my thinking when dealing with any air cooled motor I.C. or electric.


Rick C.
 

fasteddy

Well-Known Member
Feb 13, 2009
7,470
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British Columbia Canada
My corner of British Columbia, Canada is blessed with great weather for the most part. At 10 am its 66F and very pleasant and it may get to 80+F but no humidity and it will feel like 70F anywhere else. Pete would be very much at home here.

If I want desert heat a 6 hour drive Eastward will put me in high desert with blistering hot temperatures in excess of 100F. Very much like California with wineries and major fruit and vegetable production but cold as a witches heart in the winter.

The added top fin isn't a problem at all. Nice sunny day but salsa production is in order so I'll be delayed a bit.

Steve.
 

fasteddy

Well-Known Member
Feb 13, 2009
7,470
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British Columbia Canada
The cylinders are finished except for primer and paint. I had to search through the bucket of failed dreams to find two 3" disks from a project that I did. They were 3/16" which was perfect. The bolts in the heads went into the cylinders with just the threads touching the cylinders sides. No way to thread them in as Rick {Indian22} suggested.

I had to file groves into the disks so the all thread I used would line up with the head holes. I welded the all thread from the bottom when they were held in the head with a bolt on them allowing the proper amount of thread to stick out the bottom. Then I slid the head off and welded the sides of the rod.

I had to grind the threaded portion off where it meet the disk so it would fit inside the cylinder. The head bolt pattern is off square by 1/8". I messed one up by turning it a 1/4 turn so the spark plugs won't face the same way. Fortunately it was the front one where there will be room to install the plug. I'll have to look at it tomorrow to see what if anything can be done to correct it.

I didn't have my camera with me so all I have is photos of the finished product when I went and got it.

The two disks that are on the cylinders are the patterns I used to show where the notches needed to be filed in the 3/16" plates. Out of habit I usually make two patterns in case one is messed up or lost. I will probably leave them in place when I bolt the head down.

Steve.
 

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indian22

Well-Known Member
Dec 31, 2014
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7,740
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Oklahoma
I should have included several of the 3" disks from the cutting process Steve too welded a "cap" in the top of the cylinder. My head bolt pattern fell just to the outside of the cylinder tube fortunately, totally on the inside would have been perfect but we both got it sorted.

The work is coming along nicely.

The exhaust manifold cuts are very similar to the pattern I've chosen for the upcoming flat head case, but I'll cut them on the plasma table along with the push rod tube holes and possibly taper the fins incrementally down the length of the jug. Just playing on paper to this point.

Rick C.
 

fasteddy

Well-Known Member
Feb 13, 2009
7,470
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British Columbia Canada
Hi, Rick,
It took a little planning but I remembered the two disks I cut out some time ago for a non bike project and dug them out. Worked like charm in the end. I could have used the Chinese motor heads where the bolts fell into the inside of the cylinder and could be bolted on but they looked rather poor compared to the Jacobson heads.

Steve.
 

MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
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CA
In the middle of canning and pickling. I do the prep work and my sister in law finishes it. Have some things cut out and ready to weld but it will be a few more days before I get back at it.

So much for the great weather. It was 90F here which is almost unheard of here. No humidity though.

Steve.
Pre-heated so less amps so you'll save on gas or electric?
 

fasteddy

Well-Known Member
Feb 13, 2009
7,470
4,954
113
British Columbia Canada
Side lined with back problems again. They are letting up so I was able to work on the bike. I have to go out Monday and source some tubing locally if there is any. If not it's a trip up to the metal supply company. I made a quick tubing bender out of some scrap from the prototype buckets or if you prefer, the buckets of bad ideas, were you thinking when you did that and some really brain dead attempts.

It will be clamped in the vise and the tubing will be packed with worn out glass sand blasting media and the ends taped so it can't spill out. This will keep the tubing from crushing flat. The glass/sand will be rammed tight to compact it.

I had to make it so when I pulled down on the tubing it wouldn't lift up out of the vise. It slides in and catches the underside of the vise jaws to prevent it from moving. When the vise is tightened everything is rigid.

The hoop welded to the 3" tubing is where the tubing is inserted to anchor it. I had some 3" disks cut out of 10 gauge steel that I welded into the ends to strengthen the tubing and keep it from crushing out of round.

I'll use this to form the exhaust system.

Steve.
 

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indian22

Well-Known Member
Dec 31, 2014
4,734
7,740
113
Oklahoma
Getting ready to go to war on some tube are we? 1.25" pipe heavy wall? If so a bit of heat and she bends like taffy, quench and play! The pipe's not required to actually pass gas, ahem, through the faux exhaust so if multiple bends should be required at other points over the length of the exhaust pipe; these can be bent separately, cut to length and rejoined with inserts welded in place. Maybe not an issue on this particular fab but may be of help down the road on other projects.

Steve it's a handy tool you're working on!

Rick C.