Thats it cauter pin time!

TerrontheSnake

TerrontheSnake

New Member
I have been riding my bike for a while and I have noticed a harmonic vibration that is really erking me. I have used locktite, thread lock, High temp epoxy, and even tried a Lil JB weld. Problem is right at about 6500 rpm my bike will basicaly spit my exhaust nuts off regardless of what I have used. Not above or below 6500 but right at. I have decided that I'm going to lowes and I am going to fasten my exhaust nuts cauter pin style. Has anyone done this?
 
many people have used a spring to hold there exhaust on along with there regualar nuts.

try using double nuts on everything,i do and it works.
 
I bet that will work. The tricky part will be drilling the holes in the studs that you'll put the cotter pin through. It's not hard to do just kind of tricky...................
 
I do it like this, just barely nic both sides of the bolt with an angle grinder just enough to clear a few threads then you have a much easier time getting the drill to stay and catch right. LoL I would have done it already but I do not have a metal bit that small so I have to buy one.
 
I might just try locking two nuts together though that is about the only thing I haven't tried and one of the most obvious options. Sometimes I'm brilliant other times I should probably wear a helmet indoors, depends on the day I guess.
 
If you take a centre punch with a sharp point and place the tip along the threads right at the face of the nut you will punch a small hole that will hold the nut in place. The nut and the stud sort of get welded in place but will still be easy enough to remove it if needed.
 
yeah if the double nuts don't pan out, I'll do a cauter pin with springs before the nuts because I like that idea I'm pretty sure my old chainsaw exhaust is setup like that.
 
Another option is to get rid of the studs and nuts and go with Allen head cap screws with lock washers. There is no requirement to use studs. Ace Hardware has 6mm grade 8 capscews (black ones) I think they need to be about about 30mm (1 1/4") long for a standard exhaust manifold flange. Part of the problem with the nuts is the weld at the flange that will not allow the nut to seat properly. Test and you'll probably see that the nut will contact the weld bead and not lay flush against the flange when tightened. To remove the original studs simply double nut them and back them out with the nut closest to the cylinder. You'll want to stay away from the red loc-tite. It holds, requires lots of heat to soften and can damage threads if you ever need to remove the nuts or studs. Good luck, keep us posted on your fix.
Tom
 
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Thanks, I would try that but I have replaced those studs and I locked them in place with titanium high temp epoxy. I am not so sure they will be easy to remove, if all else fails I will get them out though. I'm going to try a few other ideas first. I do see what your talking about with the nuts not being flush like they should be. I love this place! Congrats on the Moderator Status 2Door!!
 
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Thanks Terron,
Be careful trying to remove the studs. That titanium stuff might not let you get them out. I've used a grinder and shaved some of the weld bead off the flange, just enough to flatten the nut seating area. Use new lockwashers under the nuts, tighten them just enough to flatten them then double nut. Good luck my friend.
Tom
 
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