test cdi and ignition coil using fluke meter?

2door said:
Terry, by any chance did you remove the magneto rotor (magnet) from the shaft? It can be installed backwards and will keep an engine from running if it's on wrong. I believe Aleman and Dave have some photos of the right and wrong way to install the rotor. One of them will probably speak up now that I've mentioned it.
Tom
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I sent a link about the instillation of the magnet in above post.
 
I haven't touched the magneto since I last rode it. I have a new aftermarket air filter that is new. I figured "what have I got to lose...take it off and try it". Nothing! Okay here is another question. I am running 100:1 opti2 in gas with no additive. What would the ideal plug gap be? I tried .020 and .030. It has to be something to do with the spark. There is air and gas.

Terry
 
are you sure. there is gas? have you checked all your fuel components (petcock, fuel line, carburetor) for blockage? have you also checked everywhere for air leaks? if you have spark, I don't thibk the problem is electrical.
 
I've always had better luck with a little less gap; somewhere in the .018 to .024 range. I doubt seriously that is your problem unless like Goat said, your plug isn't firing under compression. In that case a smaller gap might help.
Things to check:
1. Is the carburetor slide (barrel) opening when you twist the throttle?
2. Is the choke open?
3. Is there fuel flowing to the carburetor?
4. Does it seem flooded? Wet spark plug?
5. Did you put a quarter in it? The coin slot is the third cooling fin down on the right side :)

Tom
 
Its getting gas into the carb. I checked that. I think I'll run to Auto Zone to see if they have on of those testers. I'll also pick up a can of throttle body cleaner.

Terry
 
I gave it a shot of cleaner and it started on the first pull! I ran it a little to warm it up and she idled like a kitten purring. Now I'll let it cool down and try it again without the cleaner.

Terry
 
It cooled down and 1 pull on the rope and she took off. The only thing I can come up with was moister. It sat for a week or so with high humidity and lots of rain. It was under the carport and covered also. But it has been damp.

Terry
 
Amazing what a little Starting Fluid/Throttle Body Cleaner will do.

OH, yea...where should I send my bill to? Never mind....I still have your address :>)
 
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So now your a comedian! :-) I figured the bike being out of the rain, plus covered, it would be okay. I guess not!

Terry
 
what does putting a quarter in it do? Can someone post a pic because I don't know where the 3rd fin is. No clue what that means.

Also if it's a joke, I don't get it.
 
Fulltimer said:
I'm having an electrical problem also. I checked the CDI with a volt meter but the reading was so fast I couldn't read it. All I could tell was it was putting out something. I have no idea what a Fluke Meter is. But, I will find out thanks to everything being on the internet!

Terry
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Hey fulltimer you might wanna check your seals the ones behind the magneto and the clutch if either of them are popped out you will never get your bike to start and it's not that uncommon for them to pop out I'm almost 100% sure that's why your bike won't start. Good luck
 
2door said:
I have no use for digital meters. Especially when trying to read voltage. I rely on my venerable Simpson 260 analog VOM that is rock steady and reliable.
Here's some ohm readings that have proven to be reasonably accurate for testing the electrical components. Readings can vary but if you're in the ball park you should be good to go.
And Barley Awake is right, Fluke is an overpriced product with a word-of-mouth reputation. Simpson is the better choice.

Use Low Ohm-Meter Scale About 200 Ohms

Magneto Coil

1) Check Ohms between BLACK wire and WHITE wire. Reading should be around 2 Ohms
2) Check ohms between BLUE wire and WHITE wire. Should be around 300-400 ohms.

CDI

Use Ohm Meter High Scale About 200-K
1) Positive lead on BLUE wire and Negative lead on BLACK wire should read infinite (no activity)
2) Positive lead on BLACK wire and Negative lead on BLUE wire. Should be about 130-150 K-ohms
3) Positive lead on Spark Plug wire and negative lead on BLUE wire. Should read between 135-155 K-ohms

Switch to Low Scale 20K
4) Measure between Spark Plug wire and Black lead. Should be about 2.5 - 2.7 K- ohms

Tom
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Glad to hear that Tom is "Old School" and has practical experience! The Simpson 260 meter is a required meter for
business band radio alignment. Digital meters are about worthless unless you are checking a power supply for
critical supply voltages on a digital device but is absolutely worthless for tracking a voltage for alignment and
adjustment. A VTVM meter is used for high impedance insertion using a RF probe since the meter does not load
the device. I've built and worked on CDI systems since the middle 60s and a Techtonics storage scope is the only
device for analyzing the CDI systems since the rise time on a capacitor discharged through a SCR high and
voltages are lethal from 400+ volts up and fast. You will know the mistake if you get across the coil! The SCR
switches the high voltage across a ignition coil and the spark is hot on the plugs and will fire through oil. CDI
ignition systems are the only way to go. Good knowledge Tom! (^)
 
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