Stoker motor

Jug has to be spaced up to match. The larger bore and larger stroke will increase crankcase compression. Going to slip fit the crank and clutch so I can easily brake it down if I want to stuff the case later.
 
Guys at MZ are pretty sharp. Good people to deal with. Having a lined bore will be a great thing!
Is this 4mm on a 38 or 40mm crank? Other words what is the total stroke?

The Stihl conversion I'm attempting (same as Zeda MS) is designed for a 40mm stroke. The unknown at this point is the piston pin height. Still waiting on the parts. What you are doing is similar enough to be of help to me on my project. Will follow closely.
Interestingly you can button the ends of the piston pin to also raise primary compression.
 
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Look like the pins in the same spot and the difference is taken up at the base gasket makes sense as the exhaust duration is low in these motors

Left is the 48mm right is the stock short rod motor
It look like a zeda kit not my video
 

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Bearings (6202 RS) should be here today working on finishing the intake opening the plate from 14mm to about 1 inch
 
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New bearing are cleaned and installed one bearing on the clutch is now slip fit for easy disassembly. Forgot my bottle of gasket goo at the shop so will be tomorrow before bottom end is back together.
 
Well almost back together ran into a problem the keyway on the crank is a little thinner then the old one so the keys do not fit.

Talked with my local auto parts store they carry vp-110 fuel
 
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The woodruff key problem will hold this up there metric and could not find 2mm ones on Ebay in USA so had to order from the UK.
 
yes, all factories use either thick or thin for all 4 keys - one kit recently changed the units on the shaft to thick key types while leaving shaft keys thin so all keys are loose fit
 
Well the carb fits nicely.
The cut up reed setup
But this is strange may have a problem ( not a problem)
 
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With the intake opening up to the top of the piston this setup will only work with reed valves. When it is at that point the reeds will be closed making the intake path a 3rd transfer port because the window in the piston is also in the intake path. Clever but made me say what the
 
cannonball2 said:
Guys at MZ are pretty sharp. Good people to deal with. Having a lined bore will be a great thing!
Is this 4mm on a 38 or 40mm crank? Other words what is the total stroke?

The Stihl conversion I'm attempting (same as Zeda MS) is designed for a 40mm stroke. The unknown at this point is the piston pin height. Still waiting on the parts. What you are doing is similar enough to be of help to me on my project. Will follow closely.
Interestingly you can button the ends of the piston pin to also raise primary compression.
Click to expand...
It's a 44mm stroke I checked
 
I was going to use a 40mm bottom end. The Stihl saw that the cylinder/piston come from uses a 40mm stroke. That keeps the port timing correct. We may be taking about two different things.
 
cannonball2 said:
I was going to use a 40mm bottom end. The Stihl saw that the cylinder/piston come from uses a 40mm stroke. That keeps the port timing correct. We may be taking about two different things.
Click to expand...
You asked me if the +4mm stroke was from a 38mm crank or a 40mm crank I was just answering your question
 
bore 48mm stroke 44mm = 79.64cc

Started to fix the head the ridge on the Jake style head is now gone
The spark plug is two short and its a long throw so got a end mill bit to take material form the top of the spark plug area. Will post pics when i get time.
 
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Plug is fixed used a router with a end mill bit. Just have to reshape the head a little.
before
20180213_072441.jpg

below is the after not sure why some will give me the option for a image and some will not
 

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Good news the crank keys are here and fit.
WOODRUFF KEYS: 2mm x 3.7mm

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The clutch side is a little to tall for the gear to go on will have to grind the key down a hair
 
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