Sprocket @ Wheel, Coaster break issue

Deadend

Deadend

New Member
I'm new to coaster brakes, by the time i was interested in suping up a bicycle, i was in the realm of bmx freewheels and MTB cartridge hubs.


Whats the deal with this thing? I've googled and followed the instructions found on these two sites :

Park Tool Website

Bicycle Coaster Brakes


I pulled the brake apart, but i did it backwards, and backed the break arm out first... anwyay when i reassemble, it all fits and goes together well, but the exception is that the axle is locked up ( when i turn the wheel, the axle itself spins with the wheel, instead of remaining in place)

The clutch, pads , all that stuff are in there right, but its like they are perma engaged


I'm just about over this thing and im about to say "f' it" and pull the brake pads out and have it act like a normal freewheel.

Any suggestions on what im doing wrong? Thanks!:-||
 
I will come clean here- two summers ago I took apart a Huffy (wal-mart model 1999 or so) and even with the help of all the kings horses and all the kings men I could not get that sucka back together (right) again. It was doing what you have described.

I threw it into my dam, into the place where all bad things go and used another wheel.
I never did figure out what I was doing wrong, and have taken apart many before and after that.

You could take it to the "experts" at the bike shop, and for about 10-20 dollars gain a good piece of knowledge.
 
pretty much what im planning on doing - im not sure its worth another 3hrs of struggling, was just curious if the result sounded familiar to anyone
 
Yeah, I am pretty sure I got SOMETHING in there backwards. I have only had that problem once.

I will say I am definitely NOT a wizard when it comes to bicycles.

Maybe take it apart, leave it overnight, then come back to it fresh and start re-assembly from scratch.
 
the shenans were lastnight, i didnt notice the failure until AFTER i already had the drive sprocket from the kit on. So i have at least a 15min removal of that coming to me after work.

I'm going to say screw it and take the wheel into a bike shop and pick it up tomorrow, after 9hrs of work, im over screwing with this p.o.s coaster brake lol
 
One of the wisest things I have ever read on this site is Bikeguy Joe's signature... "If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be."

As far as fixing your wheel... make sure you didn't accidentally tighten the axle when you tightened the lock nut onto the brake arm.
Make sure the bearings are all in the correct way.
The other thing to check is that you didn't install the little brake shoes backwards & that they are properly in the little lock slots to keep 'em straight...
 
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im also curious about this :


The coaster break has an arm which is used to actuate the brake. But yesterday after i had the sprocket on - it was pressing up against the brake side cup and there was no way the rectangle (which the brake arm fits against) is NOT rotating with the sprocket.


Does this sound right? Or how are you guys mounting the rear drive sprocket for the kits against a coaster brake?

heres a fast diagram on what im talking about :


DIRECT.jpg


FRONT.jpg



* NOTE - the sprocket cut out is not large enough to allow the brake cap to slip through the sprocket

thanks in advance :D
 
It sounds like you have a much larger hub than normal...
Trim the edge of the dust cap to clear the hole in the sprocket. Or make the hole in the sprocket bigger.

Also... The brake arm doesn't actuate the brake!! (pedaling backward does.) the brake arm mounts to the frame to keep it from turning during braking.
 
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VENICE BOY said:
It sounds like you have a much larger hub than normal...
Trim the edge of the dust cap to clear the hole in the sprocket. Or make the hole in the sprocket bigger.

Also... The brake arm doesn't actuate the brake!! (pedaling backward does.) the brake arm mounts to the frame to keep it from turning during braking.
Click to expand...

Yepo !


I came to this conclusion about 5 hrs ago, and my assembly of the coaster is spot on dance1



So the sprocket went to a local machine shop for some lathe work.



I had read about Manic Mechanic's conversion but my fear was sending away, waiting 2weeks ( 5business days + 3 - 5 days payment processing ) and having it come back still needing machine work

NOT a knock to their work or craftsmanship - its more like "i have that kind of luck" - because i have had that kind of luck with this whole f*cking build /roflmao


The Desert Fox ( as seen in the chop sub forum) is my first build.


Im starting to think im doing things the hard way zpt
 
I had kind of the same problem with the first Huffy cruiser I bought and it wasn't from Walmart but another local mega-store. No matter what I did I couldn't get the bike to reliably stop, I mean I could literally put all my weight on one pedal and it would just slow down but when I would go to pedal again it was like the brake was stuck and I'd have to force it forward. Messed with that thing for two hours before I just gave up, returned the bike and went to Walmart.
Even the one from Walmart didn't have great brakes but I didn't know better because the last bike I had with coaster brakes was a 20 BMX over 30 years ago. The best thing that happened was when the bearing race broke and I got a heavy duty wheel from the LBS for $43 only then did I find out what a good coaster brake felt like.
 
really the issue was the sprocket center spindle not being large enough and it creating force towards the brake dust cap, perpetually engaging the coaster brake.


I tore the son of a ***** apart again, cleaned it, re-greased it with fresh booty hole grease, and re-assembled....

****s flawless and grips like whoa.


The issue i was having was 2 fold : Mental retardation , and the sprocket was grabbing the clam shell.


The fix? I have a local machine shop openning up the kit's sprocket spindle hole, 45$.


Its a hobby, but she aint cheap zpt
 
most, if not all the custom cnc'd sprockets you can buy have already fixed that problem, and they come with a larger hole.

coaster brakes rule. i've rebuilt 100's of them on old cruisers, and just about everytime, i sit there staring at the stupid thing trying to figure out how it goes back together. eventually i figure it out, but i always think "did i lose something? how come this don't fit...."

i just got a brand new wheelset with a shimano cb-e110 coaster brake, and that thing locks up instantly. it's almost too good. which is better than my 40 year old bendix hub, which will still lock 'em up, but all the chrome burnt off it from raging it around at 35mph all day. scary.
 
Here is a web site that should give yoiu all the information you need.Asfar as Jim's sprocket adaptor and sprockets you can call him or look on the web page and order the wright size adaptor from him. I have three bikes that i have used the adaptors on 2 Electra Coaster bikes and 1 Schwinn Legacy coaster and they worked great .You will mount the sprocket and then rebend the brake arm to clear the three mounting bolt heads. If you have set of torchs it will made bending easer but a good strong vice will work. When you get it done you will have a good solid set up. Hope this helps.

Overhauling a Coaster Brake Bike
 

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damn thats some really nice work. I'll have to contact him after my wedding as money is a little tight right now (15days! EEK! )
 
I think I'm having the exact same issue here, but I was hoping to verify with some of you. So Deadend posted some good diagrams that make me think I'm having the same issue and may need to have my sprocket widened.

The picture I attached is of my coaster bike. I'm confused about a couple of things...
1. to get the sprocket on, do I have to disassemble the brake hub entirely, or is there a way to get the sprocket behind the lock-arm (A) without that?
2. the sprocket is supposed to go flush against the spokes (D), correct? if so, it seems like the chain will hit the tire.

thanks for any help!

t
 

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mts said:
I think I'm having the exact same issue here, but I was hoping to verify with some of you. So Deadend posted some good diagrams that make me think I'm having the same issue and may need to have my sprocket widened.

The picture I attached is of my coaster bike. I'm confused about a couple of things...
1. to get the sprocket on, do I have to disassemble the brake hub entirely, or is there a way to get the sprocket behind the lock-arm (A) without that?
2. the sprocket is supposed to go flush against the spokes (D), correct? if so, it seems like the chain will hit the tire.

thanks for any help!

t
Click to expand...

Just take off the brake arm "A" to get the sprocket on.
Put one of the rubber donuts between the sprocket & the spokes "D" & the other one on the other side of the spokes "C".
If the sprocket touches the dust cover "B" you can trim the edge of it with some tin snips.

Make sure the sprocket spins perfectly straight as you are tightening it!! Tighten it slowly in a 'star pattern' & keep checking that it's still straight!!!
 
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Deadend said:
damn thats some really nice work. I'll have to contact him after my wedding as money is a little tight right now (15days! EEK! )
Click to expand...

Heck, money has been tight for me ever since my wedding.....1992.

I make a good living....but loosening it from the Missus' grip...that's tough.
 
Hough, Sure You Have Heard This One; The Wife Says; Why Do I Only Get 25 Percent Of The Money?? Husband Says; Its A Fifty Fifty Deal! You Get Half Of My Money And Then I Get Half Of Yours.
 
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