Sportsman project coming up...questions

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Cool. Im thinking those white grips with white 2.125" tyres would be nice, & a Brooks Flyer seat. Are there any other good options for vintage looking sprung seats?
 
baslok said:
what type of shimano hub is pat useing for is wheels, anybody know that?
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was just on the site again & on there it says Shimano CB110.

This leads to another newbie question again.
I see that the Shimano coaster brake has a lever to actuate it. I assume this means that you have to have a lever on the bars to apply the rear brake?

Im trying to keep the bars as uncluttered as possible & have fewer cables if possible.
Are there coaster brakes that are actuated simply by back peddling? that dont need a cable & lever?
 
Brett those grips may infact fit the standard throttle, i dunno. But why would you want to? You will have these nice looking grips fitted to a cheap low quality plastic barrelled throttle assembly. Personally im not a fan.....

I bought these Amal throttle assembly, they wouldnt be much dearer then your standard throttle with aftermarket grips, and the Amal assembly is all metal and no plastic.

Only downside is they are longer (they need to be shortened-easy), and thicker....

eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d?r
 
harry76 said:
The lever on the hub you are referring to has a hole in it. And you should get a flat strap as well. The strap is wrapped around your chainstays

http://www.exploratorium.edu/cycling/images/coasterbrake.jpg

I just bought a NOS Shimano CB110 for like $20. What is special about Sportsman's rear hub? The sprocket adaptor?.... if so can this be bought seperately as i may need one
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Thanks for the info. So the lever is held there by the bracket. And then when you peddle backwards a bit, this actuates the rear brake then?

Re the hub, I dont know if his is any different but he said it wont cost much :-) & yeah the sprocker adapter is on his parts page, apparently much better quality than the one with the Chinese kits.
 
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Personally I am not a big fan of the Schwinn style springer on a motorbike. They have a see-saw type action so as they travel the front wheel moves forward and back in the frame. There are pretty bad under braking, too. If I do the Schwinn style I try to find a decent vintage one. Thoses were nicely built and much stronger then the modern versions. Of course the vintage forks are very expensive.
 
I am a big fan of the early Schwinn springer forks, they're great on the road. Pat's negative comments stemmed from use on the track under high corner loads. Having never had my bike on the track I can't comment on that. As for on the road, I find them quite nice.

As for the cheap springer in the ebay add... watch out! The steer tubes are junk. I purchased a similar pair for one of my daughters bike. I couldn't figure out why the handle bar stem kept coming lose, until I noticed the head tube was deforming, the neck wedge was actually deforming the tube. So if it's not good for kids bike, watch out on a motorbike.
 
oh well, will keep looking.
the monark repops are available locally, which would save on shipping, so I guess I could get the local engineer to do Pat's mods on them for me, to improve them.
cheers for the info :-)
 
sportscarpat said:
Personally I am not a big fan of the Schwinn style springer on a motorbike. They have a see-saw type action so as they travel the front wheel moves forward and back in the frame. There are pretty bad under braking, too. If I do the Schwinn style I try to find a decent vintage one. Thoses were nicely built and much stronger then the modern versions. Of course the vintage forks are very expensive.
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This bike will mainly be for business display, for our Bobber parts business, & get ridden around the block. So high specs are not so critical.
Having said that, we dont want the forks to break while we're riding around the block LOL
 
Itchybird, i wish i hadnt read that..... i just put a set of those newer Schwinn style on my girlfriends bike...... you can weld the newer monark forks to strengthen them, but what can you do about a crap steerer tube?
 
I'm sure some are better than others, so shop quality if you can. I notice that companies such as Felt sell them as well. If they're using them, I suspect the quality of their product is probably better. I run the vintage schwinn springer stuff, and even at 60 years old, they're solid as they come.
 
Someone needs to modify a set of the Abraham Linkage forks with a 1" threaded stem. That would be cool. I hear they are pretty strong forks.
 
Im also organizing ordering the motor. They are gonna leave the decal off for me :-)

They have one that has a 'CNS' carb with a pod & apparently that carb is a little better. Or they have a grey/alloy one with the other carb. Or...they can bolt up the CNS carb with pod to the grey/alloy motor.

I dont really want a choke lever on the bars so I might stick with the old style carb. Still trying to decide before I put the order thru.

I do like the pod filter tho.
 

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Best to run a slant head engine for more clearence with the center tube. Also, it gives slightly higher compression.
 
thanks Pat, i heard they were better. but noone has them here. will the top of the plug still clear the center tube ok?
 
Not entirely sure. I have a slant head kicking around somewhere if you need one. There was a thread awhile back where someone mentioned the straight head engines run smoother. Not looking to kick up any controversey, but I have run both. My opinion is the straight plug heads do run smoother but have just a bit less power.
 
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