Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Motorized Cruiser Bicycles' started by fishguts, Sep 13, 2010.
Real steampunk kinda bike. Amazing!
I guess I could wrap it in regular old aluminum rod stock, too, but I wonder if this would add significantly to the mass to make any real difference, aluminum being what it is.
Well, I'll see how it behaves and go from there. I've seen experimental stationary motors start up by the steam flushing through as condensed hot water and then once the cylinder is heated steam returns and it starts to work fine. I'm thinking as this will be a mobile engine with air moving over it it may need insulation at least, or maybe not. Just have to run it and find out.
some type of fire proof great foam stuff spray it shave off excess to match the fins then sprayed with some grill paint for color?
I'm guessing such a thing doesn't exist, spray foam being pretty darned volatile. But that may not matter as the cylinder shouldn't exceed more than 250F.
Gee I hope the warranty is still valid.
well that litenet it up some,and got rid of those pesky clutch pucks too,lol
Now that I have the motor all apart ... I have to say I'm surprised these things last as long as they do! There was no oil in it, no grease - nothing. There was just a thin oil film on the internal parts, and not much of that. Rust is starting to form on the crank counterweights. Then there were several machining burrs left behind. Maybe mine missed inspection, but you gotta wonder...
I was hoping to get a motor with the spark plug in the center of the head because of the way I'm going to set up the steam inlet, but the plug on this one is at an angle. So ... I decided to make a new head.
I cut down the original to use as a pattern, sculpted over it with Sculpy and baked it. I added an old timey "H" and the word, "steam" just for fun. Tomorrow I'll use it as a plug in a sand mold and then cast a new one in my backyard foundry.
Clay leaves a lot to be desired, so we'll see how it looks when I get it cleaned up after casting.
This build is w/o a doubt one of the most epic undertakings I've ever seen on this site! You're not "raising the bar" with this 'un, you're creating a whole new category lol, not only are you delving into a radically different method of propulsion unlike anything that's been around for I unno... a hundred years? You're also managing to make it look awesome as well!
My hat is off to you man, I wish you the best of luck
VERY INTRESTING? I thought your gas tank was neet. Had not seen the rest untill today. YOU ARE ONE CLEVER GUY.........Curt
Thank you, but I just fell out of the box a little, that's all. We'll have to see if it actually works ...
Fired up little Dante and made some shiny stuff. While it cools I'll post some photos. When I get it out of the mold I'll post some more. No guarantee I won't be turning right around and casting another one if this one isn't decent.
Got lucky and the first pour was a good one. After cleaning it up I sprayed a little flat black on it and tried it out on the motor. The center hole will be larger and tapped for 1/4" NPT thread.
Woo-hoo, lookin like a steam engine!
OK ... did you notice? I have the head on backwards ... oh boy.
Congratulations... one step closer to steam power!
I could use some advice on this one. I want to use a carb as an oiler. I will run steam oil in the supply water but that still leaves the crank, etc. in need of oil. The challenge is to get a carb to do the job. Could I run a much lighter oil such as trumpet valve oil and larger jets perhaps? Anybody know the viscosity of the 2-stroke's gas/oil mix?
Any input appreciated.
in-line oiler like is used on air ratchets and other air tools?
That's a cool idea! I wonder if there's enough vacuum at the carb inlet to make it work?
in the steam line for top oiler ,,,crank case will need an oil level for the bearings like a 4 stroke,,,the intake transfer ports from the crankcase to the cylinder need to be closed and the carb intake manifold hole needs to be an oil recovery crankcase vent for blow-by control
Good ideas but there are some challenges. An inline oiler for air tools won't be steam rated so can't be certified as safe (although airline psi ratings would make it appear safe, pneumatic psi is not the same as steam psi). I guess with oil in the crankcase there would be enough splash to take care of the bottom end and with a vent as mentioned, there wouldn't be any compression/vacuum in the case as with a stock 2-stroke, so that would work. Steam oil will take care of the piston from the top. But I was thinking of oil vapor for the bottom end (like stock but without the gas) with a drain plug in the bottom of the case so I can drain any water that happens to blow by the rings. With oil in the case, frequent oil changes should take care of that, but I was thinking that with the stock 2-stroke crankcase evacuation system as it is, errant water may all get sucked back into the cylinder. There would be some unburnt oil in the exhaust with this setup, of course, but there will be steam oil there anyway. No idea as to what this would actually amount to in terms of oil blowing out the exhaust.
Could mount a small paddle on the conecting rod to help lube if needed
I was thinking of that. Of course, there would be a lot of splash in there anyway if it's running oil in the case.
But if the oil comes in as a mist instead via the carb or whatever, I guess I wouldn't need steam oil in the water because with this setup oil vapor would be pulled from the crankcase. Any steam that gets past the rings might get sucked back into the cylinder on intake.
I bet in either case I would be smart to have a bung TIGed into the bottom of the case so I can put a drain plug in it.
petcock in the bottom, open till the water stops flowing and the oil begins ,shut it then check the oil level