By different technique I think he means starting it but he will have to elaborate. Because of the front freewheel you actually have to pedal to start it. You cannot bump start it by just getting the bike moving and dropping the clutch.
No clutch action is required to up-shift or down-shift. It actually won't work if you do. Just like when you are riding a bike normally you have to have the chain moving to shift. The only time I ever use the clutch is starting or stopping. If you are coming to a stop just shift in to first and then just before you stop pull in the clutch. Because of the rear freewheel you pretty much can up-shift or down-shift at anytime.
Rolling off and back on the throttle will make your shifts smooth. You don't have to but you will put a lot of stress on the drive, freewheels, cassettes and axles if you don't.
Since my last post I have destroyed the Shimano 3S hub. My Dellorto SHA got fouled with dirt and caused a erratic running condition which overloaded the hub. The second one seems stronger and is running well.
I still have a 19mm PHBG to setup. I am waiting for jets to arrive.
At this time I am using the stock carb and a another Shimono 3S (I have a few) as it gives a smoother power delivery to the hub.
I will continue to develop this setup with a stronger Sturmey Archer Hub and the 19mm Dellorto.
I find the 3 speeds are enough, 1st for hills, 2nd is direct drive and 3rd is great for the flats. It can shift when stopped as well.
I was reading your post about diving a 3 speed hub and how it failed from the pulsing from a rough running engine. The standard mount that comes with the Happy Time also struggles with this condition, IE, broken spokes. I have considered this for a while, and have tried to figure a way to make a dampened drive at the rear wheel. All the small motorcycles have a drive hub that propels the bike through rubber pads. On our sprockets we would need to find a simple way to do the same, there would be no broken hub in your case and not broken spokes on the other side for the happy. The fact that the engine pulses are transmitted to the hub is hard on parts, but to remove them is a bit of a design dilemma, I have an idea but I have never tried it, I will let you know if I do. I like your set up. Have fun,Dave
I'm really very new to this, as I've stated in other posts. Nevertheless, after having read up on all this for the last 2 or 3 days it occurred to me that I would like to build a motorized bike with the shift kit and an internal shift hub. I was about to start a new thread asking about this when I came across this one.
My concerns were exactly dealing with the stresses on the hub and how durable it would be when subjected to a motor drive.