Shifter Kit from www.sickbikeparts.com

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Pablo, Jul 18, 2008.

  1. datz510

    datz510 New Member

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    Mine has just a hair under 1.25" and its gonna be very very tight, clearance wise.

    I may have to ditch the 5/8" shaft collar and find a narrower one as right now it looks like my seatpost tube is JUST going to nick it a hair.

    Here is my shifter kit mocked up on the 67cc HT Im using:

    [​IMG]

    I should have it on my bike tommorrow evening. Wont be running yet, but I'll at least have the engine bolted in.
     
  2. Ghost0

    Ghost0 New Member

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    Looks good I think it should work nicely.
    And I am talking to both of you guys.
     
  3. Harp

    Harp New Member

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    I was just making my self the shifter kit.
    Finally put it on and took a test drive.
    It was hard, I'd have to admit, and caused alot of problems cause I really had no plan but had the idea and was just going along as I slowly built it.
    This is great.
    I might be picking up one from the site, it saves time ...maybe I can put it on all my bikes =)
     
  4. Clotho

    Clotho Member

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    Hi Pablo and Ghost0,

    It was a pleasure meeting you gentlemen last Saturday. I have had a blast installing the kit. Here is a picture of the results. It works great! I can now climb the hills here in White Rock. The quality of your kit was excellent. The install still required some adjustments and grinding but no more so than what it takes to do the average Happy-Time install.

    I still have much more planned for this bike. Springer forks and a Nuvinci hub amongst them.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. datz510

    datz510 New Member

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    Wow Clotho, thats a nice lookin bike!!!!
     
  6. Clotho

    Clotho Member

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    Thanks Datz!

    For the curious here is some more info about the kits.

    The first picture shows how the kit was packaged and what was included. There was a very nice note on top thanking me for my business and informing me where to download the instructions etc.

    The second picture shows the kit laid out. I was surprised to see how many parts were involved. Notice how everything is nicely separated into different bags. This makes the installation much easier as you just open the bags as you need them and you don't have to fish around in a pile of parts for what you require.

    The third and fourth pictures show the kit installed on my bike, a Felt Kingpin. I found the instructions to be very good and the quality of the components to be excellent. Still, I had to make some adjustments. I had to do a bit of grinding on the rear motor mount to clear the engine drive chain. Also I had to add some washers to increase the space between the sprockets as the chains would interfere with each other in the highest gear. This is not surprising. Every build is different and has its own challenges. In the pictures you can see a gold master link at the top of the drive sprocket. I also opted to remove this and used a chain tool to connect the chain without the master link. The master link was giving me some problems with the chain skipping off even with the proper orientation. It was a little too large. Removing it from the equation solved the problem.

    One item that made this install much easier was a crank removal tool. It was only $12 at a local bike shop and it makes removing the cranks a breeze. I found that I took mine off a few times to adjust the fit of the parts and now that I have it, it makes removing the ubolts for the rear motor mount that much easier. Just pop off the crank and the nut is right there. Perhaps this is something else that Sick Bike Parts might wish to carry? I also picked up a couple of plastic caps for the cranks while I was at it.

    I found the instructions to be very good but no doubt they will continue to improve. The only part that I found a little tricky was when I was trying to determine which way the bevels on the crank sprockets went.

    You may notice that the kit on the bike isn't painted yet. Now that I am happy with the fit of everything I will disassemble it once again and paint the parts to match the motor and frame. Don't forget the degreaser! If you don't degrease and clean the parts first the paint will be a mess.

    Overall I had a great experience with this kit and I recommend it highly. My top end has increased by at least 15kph and the bottom end is incredible. Hills that were previously impossible to climb now are ascended with ease. Without doubt the only thing limiting the top end now is hp. Time for some more mods!

    Thank you Sick Bike Parts. Keep up the great work! (^)
     

    Attached Files:

    #46 Clotho, Jul 25, 2008
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2008
  7. Pablo

    Pablo Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor

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    I am humbled. All your words will be absorbed and acted upon. (^)

    Come to think of it, neither of us have been running the master link on the supplied chain....well I don't think Jim is.:p Always best without the ML.

    On the chainring cut direction, we can look at makes most sense. I think we just do shiny side out, but whatever favors the application would naturally be best.

    We knew the left side chain would be close. My doesn't touch, Jim's does, but he was running a #41 chain. That drawing is already updated.

    PS Just want to point out that we gave clotho a recycled box, hence my greasy fingerprints!
     
  8. Ghost0

    Ghost0 New Member

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    Clotho,
    I second Pablo's comments, thanks. We are aware that due to variations in the engine kits and bicycle frames not all kits will install the same and will need some minor adjustments to be made. The more input we get from our customers the better we can make the kit and instructions. I update the instructions almost daily based on customer feedback that is why we now ask to be sure and download the instructions just prior to your build because we continually make improvements. It is also why we are here and can also be reached through the website to answer any questions.

    I see you went with the optional right bearing plate installation. I just did that to my ride last week. It was a really simple mod and now I can get to the clutch no problem.
     
    #48 Ghost0, Jul 25, 2008
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2008
  9. Clotho

    Clotho Member

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    Actually I'm pretty sure the greasy fingerprints are mine.

    Thanks to the help of Ghost0 I now see that I installed the large chain sprocket on the wrong side of the freewheel! My problem with the two chains making contact was a problem of my own creation. :oops:

    Thanks for the great after sale service!

    Every install is a little different. Just look at the variety of front engine mounts. Fitting and adjustment are all part of the process.
     
    #49 Clotho, Jul 25, 2008
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2008
  10. lennyharp

    lennyharp New Member

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    I got my Sick Shifter Kit today and love it. Now to install and use it.
     
  11. NunyaBidness

    NunyaBidness Active Member

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    I'm glad this is going so well for you guys
    I wish I had some way of coming up with that kind of money for this, was a timing/luck thing with getting the bike motor.
    I've got a TREK 6000 mtn. bike w/disc brakes and a 9 speed cassette on the back. I would LOVE to see what that shifter kit could do on a bike like that. Living in Memphis TN I don't think I would ever have to use the really low gears at all. I don't use them now when I ride that bike and I stay on the big chain ring up front. The TREK btw is not the bike I currently have the motor on.
     
  12. Pablo

    Pablo Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor

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    In a few weeks we will be offering 9 tooth gears and 11 tooth gears for the shaft "output". Stock will remain 10 teeth - it really is all you need and what you should start with. I've run the gamut.....12 teeth is just not low enough, 8 teeth is kinda fun, but 1st and 2nd are the same. For you guys with low/flat terrain, you could get the 11 tooth gear extra gear for that high speed run and the trials/hills guys could procure the 9 tooth gear. Due to volume pricing these gears will remain as an add-on. Also, we can see what the others say about the ratios but the 10th gear is pretty darn good at keeping the engine in the powerband.
     
  13. MrLarkins

    MrLarkins HS Math Teacher

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    woohoo~! high speed! i just want to cruise at 35mph...think I can get that?
     
  14. Ghost0

    Ghost0 New Member

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    35 mph is not too difficult to achieve but is more a function of horse power. I find that with my 6 speed cassette it will actually go faster in 5th than in 6th. The motor doesn't have enough power to pull that tall of a gear.
     
  15. Pablo

    Pablo Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor

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    As Jim said, a function of power, 35 mph is not much of a barrier if your engine is well tuned....40mph seems to be limiting for me, but I just don't have a lot of straight flat roads that are long enough to get it into 6th.
     
  16. datz510

    datz510 New Member

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    See.. . with gears, now we need more power, which when we have more power, we'll then need more gears..

    Its a vicious, vicious cycle.

    Once my kit is together and running on the Rotten Orange, I'll see how she does, speed wise with the 9 speed Shimano Deore cassette, Dellorto racing carb and 65cc performance expansion chamber exhaust.

    I'll Have to get some full on motorcycle protective gear before I try it though, as 50mph on a bicycle just sounds scary! :) At least she's a high end bike and will be well-assembled.

    Bonneville anyone? :)
     
    #56 datz510, Jul 26, 2008
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2008
  17. Pablo

    Pablo Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor

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    40 mph IS a lot of air.

    I took mine all apart yesterday to put a shaft from this production lot on. And finally did the clutch cover reverse bolt option. My homemade grease held up well!!

    No unusual wear was noted on the shaft, gears, chains or bearings.

    REMINDER:

    1) TAKE THE TIME TO FILE AND SAND THE KEYWAYS AND KEYS. MAKES THE FIT AND ASSEMBLY REALLY EASY IF ALL SLIDE FREELY. TAKING YOUR TIME LIKE A FINE MODEL OR CRAFT, REALLY PAYS OFF.

    2) ABSOLUTE FARTLUTELY USE LOCKTITE ON THE SET SCREWS ON THE SMALL GEAR. I THINK I LOST ABOUT 3 OR 4 SETS NOW. WITH LOCTITE, NOT ONE.

    3) MAKE SURE SMALL GEAR IS WELL LINED UP WITH OUTER CHAIN RING.

    4) GLAD TO KNOW YOU GUYS WILL PAINT YOUR BRACKETS!(^)

    Thanks,

    Paul
     
  18. datz510

    datz510 New Member

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    Pablo,

    Yep, my bracketry will all be painted semi-flat black engine enamel and sun baked out in the hot AZ sun, but I'm also going a step further.

    My brother works at a tattoo shop and I'll be having him design some custom multi-color graphics for the sides of the engine & bearing brackets that I'll have cut out of vinyl. Its gonna be sick.. perfect for a sick bike parts kit. :)
     
    #58 datz510, Jul 27, 2008
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2008
  19. bmoody

    bmoody New Member

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    The instructions say not to use a master link on the supplied chain.

    Are you supposed to just remove the required links with a chain breaker? When you assemble it does the chain breaker also re-mushroom the heads on the link?
     
  20. Pablo

    Pablo Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor

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    Yes, just remove with a chain breaker. One of the beauties of a chain breaker vs. grinding - when you press the pin back in, it will hold because it's a press fit. You press the smaller side in. It's a bit of a hassle for my fat fingers, but my chains never come apart.
     

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