Shifter Kit from www.sickbikeparts.com

badmoon said:
yeah sorry for my english im french :) im talking about the cooling fins .
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No problem, just took me awhile to figure it out. Those really don't make it quieter and certainly don't do anything for vibration. I took mine out, but may try them again now that my muffler is much more quiet.
 
So far three post launch discoveries:

1) We are changing a screw entry direction, not a big deal. The screws have a hair longer protrusion due to a spacer change - so the assembler can put the screws in the other direction or just cut/remove the extra screw length.

2) And rather than purely for 1 1/8" seat tubes, the kit will fit 1 1/4" seat tubes, out of the box or only the most minor material removal to two supplied clamps.

3) Due to popular demand and the amount of one piece cranks, we are exploring the 3 piece crank swap kit.

4) Oh yeah, #4 rotfl people are asking for other parts - studs, petcocks, spark plugs, and of course 4 stroke kits, etc. We are pedaling as fast as we can!! :ride2:
 
MrLarkins said:
how bout offering a tuned muffler for the so called 80cc
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That seems to be a tough nut. People sell the Pocket Bike pipes in the US for less than our China price.............and no one seems to want to deal with us.
 
Pablo said:
3) Due to popular demand and the amount of one piece cranks, we are exploring the 3 piece crank swap kit.
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For the one piece to 3 piece adapter I would recommend something like this one:
Bottom Bracket Adapter

They can be found a bit cheaper and I have found them made by FMF and Asamo.

The bearing cups and bearings will still be needed but they are easy to obtain.
 
Thanks Clotho. We eyeballed that one - we are starting with the lower cost unit that comes with "everything". If it turns out to be weak, we'll get samples of that one as well. So much fun, so little time!!
 
Awesome guys, you have cracked one of the holy grails of motorized bicycle riding! (^) May I ask what size sprocket is between the jack shaft and wheel? Or could I buy one from you? It is for a pusher motor project. Again, great job!
 
Dan said:
May I ask what size sprocket is between the jack shaft and wheel? Or could I buy one from you?
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Not sure that I follow......jackshaft and wheel? Left side is 17T, right 10T (stock).
 
Sorry about not being more clear in my question. I am having trouble finding a sprocket that will fit on a jack shaft and has 3/32 or 1/8 teeth to drive a bicycle wheel. Or am I searching with the wrong criteria?

I can't wait to try out your shifter kit. Have a brand new MTB that was just waiting for kit. Will be ordering ASAP.
 
I got confused-id. never mind. Was looking at your web page and thinking some thing else. I over looked your large forward sprocket.
 
Well I ordered two of the conversions due to the min order of 20 bucks. Figured they were going to charge me 5 bucks might as well invest it.

Got the kit today and checked all the parts lined it up on my 28 inch wheel bike and not a chance in heck it was going to fit so Im going to have to put it on one of my others.

Later.Terry
 
jezusjonz said:
Well I ordered two of the conversions due to the min order of 20 bucks. Figured they were going to charge me 5 bucks might as well invest it.
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You mean the crank conversion kit???

jezusjonz said:
Got the kit today and checked all the parts lined it up on my 28 inch wheel bike and not a chance in heck it was going to fit so Im going to have to put it on one of my others.
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So you mean the shifter kit won't fit because the space between the wheel and seat tube is too close, right?
 
Yes the crank conversion kits....I laid the the clutch side cover up to the bolt holes and the center of the jackshaft bearing hits at the middle of the tire and rim. I didnt have time to get into it to much. I'll send you a pic when I get a chance my desktop bit it and cant do pics for a few days.
Later
 
Jezusjones,

I'm doing a shifter kit installation on my bike which also has a very close tire to seat tube distance. I have mocked it up and I believe the installation is possible (I'll make it work on my bike).

Keep an eye on the Rotten Orange build in the photo section for more info on how I make this work. I have a number of similar obstacles that I have to overcome with my build, but it will work in the end, just clearances will be extremely tight.

Judging by the mock up on my bike, I may even have to round off the edges of the shift kit bearing plates to clear the tire... that's how close mine is. So, dont give up. I believe its just a matter of shifting the engine forwards as needed and shimming here and there until the jackshaft and related components clear both the seatpost and the tire.
 
Thats cool I'll be watching everyones setups on this. After looking over the kit and all the talks we had about it we knew up front that we were going to be moding it alot due to the different bikes we ran. I have a old schwinn freewheeling crank that I want to try and I'll have to make a whole new set of brackets for it...so winter ought to be fun...
but I 'll be watching.
 
What is the distance required between the seat tube and the rear tire? I have a MTB that has vertical dropouts and there is NO adjustment for moving the tire back....
 
The distance from the back of the seat tube to the back of the jackshaft is 1 and 1/8 inches. So if you have over 1 and 1/4 inches you should be fine.

misteright1_99 ,
I looked at your bike and you have a ton of room, no problem assuming you plan on using your red frame.
 
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Ghost0 said:
The distance from the back of the seat tube to the back of the jackshaft is 1 and 1/8 inches. So if you have over 1 and 1/4 inches you should be fine.

misteright1_99 ,
I looked at your bike and you have a ton of room, no problem assuming you plan on using your red frame.
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Jim, here is a pic of the bike I would like to put an engine and shifter kit on...
There is only about 2" between the seat post and the rear tire...
 

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