Secure mounting.

[MadMaxed]

Vibration is our enemy,more so than we think. We all have old inner tubes that we dont use. Most just chuck them and say the **** with that huge un patchable hole. Which got me thinking. What about cutting them up and placing them in between the mounts and the frame. seems good enough cushion to me. plus the rubber they are made of has some pretty descent grip .Especially the dreaded gas tanks. You could also utilized your old tires you just upgraded from or have laying around. cut them into sqaure inch pieces and stick them in between the fins on the motor. on all four side dead center. I have a few other anti-vibration thought ill post pics when i am finished and show you some other methods to reduce this bolt loosening action our beloved engines cause.

 

[massdrive]

With respect... rubber mounting a motor to a bicycle frame is a bad idea. You may feel less vibration, but it actually creates more violent vibration on the frame and will cause the frame to crack and/or break. The best way to reduce those bad vibes is to securely mount directly to the frame metal on metal. Ideally clamping 360 degrees around the frame tube, and replace those cheap studs with high grade studs or SHCS's.

The picture demanstates a good solid frame mount with a custom clamp that I made.

 

[Semaj]

OR, Skip those "VIBRATIONS" all together with an electric Brushless Hub motor Added bonous- incredibly silent!

 

[MadMaxed]

With respect... rubber mounting a motor to a bicycle frame is a bad idea. You may feel less vibration, but it actually creates more violent vibration on the frame and will cause the frame to crack and/or break. The best way to reduce those bad vibes is to securely mount directly to the frame metal on metal. Ideally clamping 360 degrees around the frame tube, and replace those cheap studs with high grade studs or SHCS's.

The picture demanstates a good solid frame mount with a custom clamp that I made.

That is solid mount you got there... Where can i get some like that. My thought was based on the chinese crap mounts the dish out. good looking out on that. mind didnt wonder that far in depth.

 

[mapbike]

massdrive makes some excellent mounts, dont use rubber between engine and frame, you'll just break studs or bolts and it is harder on the frame like has already been said.

You want the best mounts going as far as I have seen, this is the place to get them
http://www.bikebobber.com/read-more-custom-parts.html

 

[graydog8josh]

^ thanks map i might look into ordering some of those today!

 

[mapbike]

^ thanks map i might look into ordering some of those today!

youre welcome, he has some great products made up, Ive got my eye set on a couple things on his site myself, I have a basic front and rear mount Steve made for me a good while back, haven't got that bike together yet, but the mounts are nice.

 

[graydog8josh]

I ended up ordering bikebobbers front and rear mounts for my race bike. He seems like a legit guy he called me and asked for my downtube and seat tube measurements so he could custom make them.

 

[mapbike]

I ended up ordering bikebobbers front and rear mounts for my race bike. He seems like a legit guy he called me and asked for my downtube and seat tube measurements so he could custom make them.

yes he's a very legit fella, he'll make sure what you get is what you need and it will be a nice set up.

 

[Davezilla]

Fully Agreed... Massdrive does mae some excellent quality stuff... not only mounts, but those mounts look great too.

Please, whatever you do, do yourself the favor and take it from those of us who know better... do Not use any rubber padding between the engine and the mounts... it's just disaster waiting to happen and the engine will vibrate the whole bike to death.

Solid and rigid is the way to go. When you get your engine all mounted up, you shouldn't be able to move it in the frame by pushing side to side from the cylinder head, if it can move, you'll need to make it more rigid somehow, whether it's by using a set of mounts like Massdrive makes or welding tabs and brackets for your engine to bolt directly to, the more rigid you can get it, the better for your bike and the less vibration you'll feel at the grips and on the seat.

 

[MadMaxed]

Fully Agreed... Massdrive does mae some excellent quality stuff... not only mounts, but those mounts look great too.

Please, whatever you do, do yourself the favor and take it from those of us who know better... do Not use any rubber padding between the engine and the mounts... it's just disaster waiting to happen and the engine will vibrate the whole bike to death.

Solid and rigid is the way to go. When you get your engine all mounted up, you shouldn't be able to move it in the frame by pushing side to side from the cylinder head, if it can move, you'll need to make it more rigid somehow, whether it's by using a set of mounts like Massdrive makes or welding tabs and brackets for your engine to bolt directly to, the more rigid you can get it, the better for your bike and the less vibration you'll feel at the grips and on the seat.

Thanks all for the info. Can's wait to test it all out.

 

[DEVILSorchard]

There's nothing wrong with rubber mounting an engine as long as it's done right. Using a rubber spacer between contact points and a bolt straight through sandwiching the rubber is not the right way. You will have problems with the bolts tension tightening and loosing with the cycling vibrations and possibly fatigue cracking your hardware and mounts or you cult have problems keeping them torqued. For these engines I can't see this being a serious issue if regular torqueing of the hardware is kept up on.

I'm not sure I agree with the comment that it will add more violent vibrations to an engine that you just won't feel. I can see where your going with this. The engine will vibrate and rock in the mounts further than a solid mount but would the rubber not dampen the impact rather than things being solid with less motion but no damping?

If your looking to rubber mount an engine to last the best way is to use rubber bushing where the bolt can go through and torque tight against a solid mount and have the rubber isolating that entire assembly. Like a transmission mount on a car or have a look at the 2003 and earlier solid mount harley engines vs the 2004 up. Almost the exact same engine other than provisions for rubber mounts.

 

[Davezilla]

There's nothing wrong with rubber mounting an engine as long as it's done right. Using a rubber spacer between contact points and a bolt straight through sandwiching the rubber is not the right way. You will have problems with the bolts tension tightening and loosing with the cycling vibrations and possibly fatigue cracking your hardware and mounts or you cult have problems keeping them torqued. For these engines I can't see this being a serious issue if regular torqueing of the hardware is kept up on.

I'm not sure I agree with the comment that it will add more violent vibrations to an engine that you just won't feel. I can see where your going with this. The engine will vibrate and rock in the mounts further than a solid mount but would the rubber not dampen the impact rather than things being solid with less motion but no damping?

If your looking to rubber mount an engine to last the best way is to use rubber bushing where the bolt can go through and torque tight against a solid mount and have the rubber isolating that entire assembly. Like a transmission mount on a car or have a look at the 2003 and earlier solid mount harley engines vs the 2004 up. Almost the exact same engine other than provisions for rubber mounts.

This has been gone over at least a trillion times in here and the proven mount type for these is solid. We see people in here all the time complaining about vibrations and Every time it was due to poor mounting with rubber where it doesn't belong.
Several other members in here including myself have Harleys and Buells as well as other brand large V twin cruisers and there's a huge difference between an 800 pound Harley and a 50 pound bicycle, but the reason Harley switched over to rubber isolation mounts was when they began making counter balanced engines, All the EVO engines and older were solid mounted except for a few of the Dyna type frames.
You can mount these engines in Your bike however you wish, we will be there to help when you crack your frame and we'll also answer all your questions on how to get rid of these aweful vibrations. Take it from those of us who know... Solid is the way to go on these if you want a smooth ride and to keep the same frame for more than a few months. Like I said, there are just tons of posts on how to properly mount an engine, and it's no secret that rubber has no place on these mounts. The more solid and rigid these are mounted, the less vibes you'll feel at the bars and seat, and the longer your frame will last.
There are Very, and I mean Very few people in here that can come up with a successful isolation mount setup with these so to keep it simple and to help the guys who have never worked on a bicycle before let alone install an engine on one, the general concensus is to help the new guy who needs all the help he can just to get the kit installed and not confuse them with the "fab up this, weld here, cut here' etc, etc, etc...
Now if you can come up with a properly functioning isolation mount setup that's dead smooth and doesn't crack the frame in a month, please feel free to do a write up on it, but when helping the new guy out, we can't assume he has 40+ years experience building these, and anyway, it's been proven time and time again that mounting everything nice and rigid is very dependable and smooth.

 

[mapbike]

This has been gone over at least a trillion times in here and the proven mount type for these is solid. We see people in here all the time complaining about vibrations and Every time it was due to poor mounting with rubber where it doesn't belong.
Several other members in here including myself have Harleys and Buells as well as other brand large V twin cruisers and there's a huge difference between an 800 pound Harley and a 50 pound bicycle, but the reason Harley switched over to rubber isolation mounts was when they began making counter balanced engines, All the EVO engines and older were solid mounted except for a few of the Dyna type frames.
You can mount these engines in Your bike however you wish, we will be there to help when you crack your frame and we'll also answer all your questions on how to get rid of these aweful vibrations. Take it from those of us who know... Solid is the way to go on these if you want a smooth ride and to keep the same frame for more than a few months. Like I said, there are just tons of posts on how to properly mount an engine, and it's no secret that rubber has no place on these mounts. The more solid and rigid these are mounted, the less vibes you'll feel at the bars and seat, and the longer your frame will last.
There are Very, and I mean Very few people in here that can come up with a successful isolation mount setup with these so to keep it simple and to help the guys who have never worked on a bicycle before let alone install an engine on one, the general concensus is to help the new guy who needs all the help he can just to get the kit installed and not confuse them with the "fab up this, weld here, cut here' etc, etc, etc...
Now if you can come up with a properly functioning isolation mount setup that's dead smooth and doesn't crack the frame in a month, please feel free to do a write up on it, but when helping the new guy out, we can't assume he has 40+ years experience building these, and anyway, it's been proven time and time again that mounting everything nice and rigid is very dependable and smooth.

Ditto......

I started to ring in here earlier but figured id let someone else take the lead...lol!

i have several ideas on ways to fabricate a mounting system that I think would eliminate most of the engines high frequency vibes from being transmitted into the frame, but its not anything to do with putti g rubber or anything else for that matter between engine and bike frame, that just flat out doesn't work.

 

[DEVILSorchard]

Well I can't argue with experience. Thanks for clearing that up so I'm not leading people down a bad path. You are right in me thinking about a larger frame designed for the purpose not a re-purposed bicycle frame.

 

[Davezilla]

Ditto......

I started to ring in here earlier but figured id let someone else take the lead...lol!

i have several ideas on ways to fabricate a mounting system that I think would eliminate most of the engines high frequency vibes from being transmitted into the frame, but its not anything to do with putti g rubber or anything else for that matter between engine and bike frame, that just flat out doesn't work.

I tried a few things too back when I first built mine but nothing worked as planned until I just decided to mount it as solid as possible and it made a world of difference...

 

[Davezilla]

Well I can't argue with experience. Thanks for clearing that up so I'm not leading people down a bad path. You are right in me thinking about a larger frame designed for the purpose not a re-purposed bicycle frame.

No harm no foul... This is just one of those things we've experimented on over and over again and everyone agrees the easiest way to rid the vibrations is to mount it as rigid as possible, There are a few really well built mounts with urethane isolators that are strong enough to do the job as well as get rid of the vibes, but it's nothing we can advise a new builder to do.

2door in here has a really nice one he made that works, but like I said... not something a motorized bicycle newb could do easily... Maybe he'll chime in and show the pic of his mount, it's really nice with a single urethane front isolator and I thnik he has the rear mount solid.

 

[2door]

I'll just post a link to another engine mounting thread that's currently running.

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=58148&page=5 The mount Dave mentioned is shown in post #48

There is some good pros and cons to read here for anyone interested.

Tom

 

[MadMaxed]

I'll just post a link to another engine mounting thread that's currently running.

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=58148&page=5 The mount Dave mentioned is shown in post #48

There is some good pros and cons to read here for anyone interested.

Tom

love it thanks 2door

 

[boxcar]

I will start by joining the group that calls for solid mounts (IF YOU ARE A FIRST TIME BUILDER WITH LIMITED EXP. AND OR TOOLS. Keep it simple.
If you don't fit that category, a properly executed dampening system is far better.
Comparing the CG to a Harley or any other V-twin is unfair.
Comparing it to any single cylinder 2 stroke motorcycle engine mounting system would be a better bet.
Pick your brand , All mounted with dampening mounts ....
As stated by 2door , there has been a lengthy conversation explaining this in the thread he recommends . You should read it and make up your own mind.
I take offence to blanket statements that have been made on this subject.
Solid mounting is the easiest , simplest type of mount. It can be accomplished by
even the most in experienced builder with limited tools.
But if you are asking for the "BEST" mounting system I'm sorry to say a solid mount falls short...
PLEASE LETS NOT START THIS DEBATE ALL OVER AGAIN. It's been covered fairly well.
I will say this Soft rubber / holes drill'd through bicycle frames etc . ALL BAD IDEAS.
The proper dampening mounts will have to be custom made for your specific build and chosen frame.
I have not seen any that will work for all builds.
See my first statement.........