Thanks for that info, the inside tube thing for softer metals is a good idea.
I thought of you mentioning about sanding down the crankshaft to get a clutch on. If there is rust or something on it that that helps to remove the rust by sanding off with a 400 grit. I though did that and sometimes I could put the clutch like you have on and other times not.
What I found is that there are sort of two keys for the keyway.
Attached my 2 pics and view the webpage with a video of this guy turning down on a lathe a crankshaft that is larger than ¾ inch that came from a lawn mower engine. There are two woodruff slots that are seen right away in the beginning of the video. This I saw as from searching on converting vertical shaft to horizontal shaft engine, but I saw the two spots for the keyway and it reminded me of if I didn’t have a full length keyway the crankshaft I’m using for the clutch I have would have the same two ground out half moon shapes.
see post #29
http://motorbicycling.com/f14/would-you-like-help-bunch-teenagers-35791-3.html
The view of the crankshaft with two slots cut in it:
3.5HP Briggs - Vertical to Horizontal Pt. 3 - YouTube
I found that I was able to turn the inside separately from the outside of the clutch. There is little nub on the cylindrical looking part that is exposed as I disassemble to free up the rusted shoes and everything else I was cleaning. Sort of a dimple in the metal of the cylinder is what it is. It must line up with the full length key way on the crankshaft. Note on the other side which my pictures don’t show, but has a slot that is part of where the shoes are has a key that must be put in and align with the full length key way to make them turn as one.
I really don’t know why they did that than other than the torque may rip the little weld between the shoe side of the clutch that also has turn together and is attached to the cylindrical part. **(Correction)** I just realized the sleve bearing surface allows the bell with the gear teeth to either spin with the engine speed when above idle or stay motionless at idle. This means that most of the time when the engine is running and you are moving it would be better to have the cylindrical thing at engine speed so there is no friction on the parts at they rotate at the same speed. While at idle and not rolling at all, but a complete stop. Then the idle speed of the crankshaft makes friction with the cylindrical thing.
In reality the cylindrical thing could have been made to be independant of turning with the bell or the shoes as it is just a mounting point to have for the bell. The idea of less wear and tear I suppose then was there idea in building it this way.
This is almost analogous to how in Popular Science Magazine I saw in the past that to prevent wear on aircraft tires that they would have a motor to spin them to the right spped just before touching down. This never became reality though it seemed a good idea.
Just to fully explain, the part with the tooth gear attached to the bell fits over the cylindrical part and is held in with a circlip which I removed to get the whole thing apart to clean.
Once I realized I had sort of a built in second key that had to line up on the crankshaft I was no longer scratching my head what the @$%^#!
Measure Twice