Recoil, back into the recoil...

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,508
10
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
OK then 4-stroke masters, does anyone here know how to put the recoil back into the recoil starter on a Huasheng 49cc engine? I was giving a pull on a new motor tonight and the knot pulled right through the cheesy plastic pull start grip. It's a most bizarre looking recoil, unlike any that I've re-built or replaced in the past....help would be appreciated on this matter and thanks in advance. Who really knows these engines?

Of course I just did the easy quick repair to get her started...did the three nuts swap off my older Huasheng for temp fix.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,191
49
38
northeastern Minnesota
I don't know how you would fix one... just plastic stuff in there. I saw the knot in mine did not look convincing so added a second knot. Glad I did. We need to also find a source of parts for these HS motors. Having a second recoil around just in case would be a good thing.
SB
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,508
10
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
I don't know how you would fix one... just plastic stuff in there. I saw the knot in mine did not look convincing so added a second knot. Glad I did. We need to also find a source of parts for these HS motors. Having a second recoil around just in case would be a good thing.
SB
Yeah, luckily I've got a second engine....think I'll pull the new one apart and see how it's sprung.

My buddy pulled his through like I did and got it working again, but doesn't remember what he did. I'll letcha know when I figure it out...
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,508
10
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
Welp I've come to the conclusion that the knot slipping through the pull starter and and the rope shooting back into the housing somehow dislodged the recoil spring, thus no mo recoil. And the wonderful thing about the pull starter unit is that they make it un-rebuildable....it can't be taken apart. It's brand new with less than 20 pulls on it...should be under warranty me thinks.

Just a little word of warning as silverbear can attest to....check the knot in the pull start handle (grip) and make sure it's large enough not to slip through the hole that the rope goes through. You'll be glad you did.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,191
49
38
northeastern Minnesota
Well, that's not good. It must happen frequently enough that there is a brisk market in recoil assembly replacements. So, the question is, where do we get them and is the Honda the HS was cloned after a better bet, maybe even is an 'upgrade'? We need links to suppliers. Anybody?
SB
 

Tad Bit Tipsy

New Member
Jan 2, 2010
478
0
0
Pensacola,FL
Dax has the whole unit for $30. No one has individual parts for the workings as far as I know. I don't understand why the thing is plastic personally. And the little L pins are way too small. Mine has broken once so far in the first two months. I would modify mine but it's still under warranty. Dax replaced it for free.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,191
49
38
northeastern Minnesota
That's good to have those links. Does anyone know if the Honda engine the HS is a copy of has a pull start that is interchangeable but better made (I hope)?
SB
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,508
10
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
That's good to have those links. Does anyone know if the Honda engine the HS is a copy of has a pull start that is interchangeable but better made (I hope)?
SB
That's a good question SB, would be nice if they are. And thanks BMP....20 bux is cheaper than DAX 30 bux for the cheap pisa youknowhat! Cheers, goin fer a ride....wee.
 

ocscully

New Member
Jan 6, 2008
373
0
0
Orange County, CA
I had my Honda Recoil Starter apart this spring. I took it apart to set a brass grommet into the outside housing for the rope to run thru. I managed to dislodge the spring and and pulley in the process. I found some videos on you tube that show how to get the spring wound back up and the unit back together. Here is a link to one of several videos on how to replace the rope and rewind the spring. YouTube - How To Replace The Starter Rope On Your Recoil Assemblies But none of these videos will do you any good if you can't take the HS unit apart.

ocscully
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,508
10
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
I had my Honda Recoil Starter apart this spring. I took it apart to set a brass grommet into the outside housing for the rope to run thru. I managed to dislodge the spring and and pulley in the process. I found some videos on you tube that show how to get the spring wound back up and the unit back together. Here is a link to one of several videos on how to replace the rope and rewind the spring. YouTube - How To Replace The Starter Rope On Your Recoil Assemblies But none of these videos will do you any good if you can't take the HS unit apart.

ocscully
Yeah, thanks for the links oc but the screw that holds the assembly together on the HS recoil must be epoxied in...that thing won't budge no matter what......unbelievable:-||
 

MotorbikeMike

Dealer
Dec 29, 2007
477
1
18
Sacramento
Hi, here is a little about the recoil assembly, the screw can (sometimes) be backed out, and the Honda is a direct replacement for HS, tho I do not know how much better the Honda unit is.

Mike
 

GlueKill

New Member
Jun 16, 2010
26
0
1
Columbia, MO
I don't know how you would fix one... just plastic stuff in there. I saw the knot in mine did not look convincing so added a second knot.
I wound up having the knot in the pull cord get yanked through the handle. It had recoiled with such force that the knot had snugly wedged itself in the assembly. It took some pliers to get it to come back out. I cut off the old knot, threaded the cord through a small nut that would fit inside the handle, and then double knotted it for good measure.
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,508
10
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
I wound up having the knot in the pull cord get yanked through the handle. It had recoiled with such force that the knot had snugly wedged itself in the assembly. It took some pliers to get it to come back out. I cut off the old knot, threaded the cord through a small nut that would fit inside the handle, and then double knotted it for good measure.
That is what musta happened to my friends as he was able to fix his.....mine is a different story as the spring musta un-sprung internally and it's NOT coming apart. I've tried everything except extreme heat and C-4 explosive to get er open.....no go.:-||
 

JackShaft

New Member
Oct 10, 2010
7
0
1
Auburn, Ca
If you can get it apart:

Wind the spring back in starting from the outside of the coil.
Use a pair of needle nose pliers or tweezers to put the inside end of the spring into the slot when you reassemble it.
Be careful or the spring will jump out.
Pretension the assembly so the cord pulls back.
Put a small washer over the cord before you tie the knot or it will pull out again.
 

Dan

Staff
Staff member
May 25, 2008
12,775
106
48
55
Moosylvania
Just a side note, the Honda pull start is a lot more stout. If ya end up having to get a whole new assembly. Bummer when some thing that simple keeps ya from ridding and having to spend money.

But am sure you will get it working.
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,508
10
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
Just a side note, the Honda pull start is a lot more stout. If ya end up having to get a whole new assembly. Bummer when some thing that simple keeps ya from ridding and having to spend money.

But am sure you will get it working.
Yup....just took the one off of the ol' Black Ale, my udder 4-stroke. Thanks for the word on the Honda starter, much appriciated.
 

mirage

Member
Oct 31, 2010
79
0
6
england
HI,everyone. I had the same problem, cord broke, spring jumped its slot. I could not unscrew the screw either, eventually i decided to drill off the head of the screw, easy, use a drill a bit smaller than the head of the screw, fortunately, it was a philllips head plus 2 shallow blade type slots. so it was easy to find the centre. took a few seconds. all came apart. the inner part of the spring Had come out of the slot in the center of the plastic moulding.

OK how to get it all back together as new, when you drill off the head, you will see it looks like a thick screw, it is not, what you are looking at is a stepped steel bush, with a small 8mm screw going through it. the decimal diameter was 1.91 thou. i think thats 8 mm. i am an old engineer, i only used decimals. well it turns out that, there is a brass splinned tapped fitting in the boss centre, of the plastic cover. this is pressed in and epoxed in. the must have epoxed the screw in as well. as i found out when i drilled the remains of the srcrew out. as luck would have it. i did a perfect job.

the brass insert thread was perfect, and could be used again, so i epoxed it back in, it was still a nice tight tap in fit, considering it came out on the end of my drill. note keep all the bits. there is a tension spring on the central boss, this is to help with clearance and working of the drive mechanism and the pulley. you need a 3/4 in long cup head screw thats a domed head, not strickly neccessary but has a bigger head. as i said it was 1.91 thou thick.

you can tighten this right up as the manufactured tolerances will make sure it does not lock up, i also made a washer out of a no longer used copper english halfpenny, as i wanted a small center hole and a large surface for a bearing. i also put some epoxy, we use araldite rapid in the uk. put some on the ends of the springs and the holding slots to stop it jumping out. part one
 
Last edited:

mirage

Member
Oct 31, 2010
79
0
6
england
part two husheng recoil fix. as i found out when it came to bits, i could have used a much smaller drill, to get the head of the screw off. you only need a drill a little larger than the thread of the screw. ie. 8 mm. but i did not know this at first as it looked like a thick special screw. It was of course a bush. which fits in the drive plastic peice. this drive plastic fitting you will notice it has inserted in it something like an O ring this appears to lubricate and centralise the bush.

now if you make a mess of the skilled drilling part, all is not lost, even i was surprised i managed to do it, playing by ear as i went along. all you need to do is putt a suitable bolt right through the whole unit, nice shallow head on the outside for apperance sake,then a nylon lock nut on the inside. this is the easy way, but try to keep all the items the bolt goes though, as close tollerance as possible, this helps with allignment and fitting. I like a challenge so did it the hard engineers way.

assembly this was a bit of a pig, coiling the spring in its housing easy, just mahe sure there is a nice bend in the middle end of the spring so it holds firm in the slot of the plastic boss. NOW when locating the spring onto to the central bearing boss. if you keep it at a slight angle you can see underneath it and locate the end of the spring in the slot, now the spring holds in the housing pretty good due to the built in tension of the spring,

the main drive part with the drive pins, can be put in last, as you can see through the centre hole as an extra check. now as there is no screw through the centre yet, it is to tilt the drive part and locate it in its correct position. note the position of all the pieces before out take things apart. FROM THE START. another tip to eliminate cord breakages, go to a chandlers and get some stainless steel braided cable they use for dingys, you only need somthing a bit thinner than the normal cord, use solderless cable nipples to secure the ends, two on each end foe extra security. should last a life time. maybe the hond version wiil unscew, a saw a parts list of one, and it showed a repacement screw looked like a thick self tapping screw, so maybe the honda is made to come apart, as member stated the part No of the honda is 2800-zm7-003 this is identical to the huasheng, not sure about the holding screw though. good safe riding.
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,508
10
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
part two husheng recoil fix. as i found out when it came to bits, i could have used a much smaller drill, to get the head of the screw off. you only need a drill a little larger than the thread of the screw. ie. 8 mm. but i did not know this at first as it looked like a thick special screw. It was of course a bush. which fits in the drive plastic peice. this drive plastic fitting you will notice it has inserted in it something like an O ring this appears to lubricate and centralise the bush.

now if you make a mess of the skilled drilling part, all is not lost, even i was surprised i managed to do it, playing by ear as i went along. all you need to do is putt a suitable bolt right through the whole unit, nice shallow head on the outside for apperance sake,then a nylon lock nut on the inside. this is the easy way, but try to keep all the items the bolt goes though, as close tollerance as possible, this helps with allignment and fitting. I like a challenge so did it the hard engineers way.

assembly this was a bit of a pig, coiling the spring in its housing easy, just mahe sure there is a nice bend in the middle end of the spring so it holds firm in the slot of the plastic boss. NOW when locating the spring onto to the central bearing boss. if you keep it at a slight angle you can see underneath it and locate the end of the spring in the slot, now the spring holds in the housing pretty good due to the built in tension of the spring,

the main drive part with the drive pins, can be put in last, as you can see through the centre hole as an extra check. now as there is no screw through the centre yet, it is to tilt the drive part and locate it in its correct position. note the position of all the pieces before out take things apart. FROM THE START. another tip to eliminate cord breakages, go to a chandlers and get some stainless steel braided cable they use for dingys, you only need somthing a bit thinner than the normal cord, use solderless cable nipples to secure the ends, two on each end foe extra security. should last a life time. maybe the hond version wiil unscew, a saw a parts list of one, and it showed a repacement screw looked like a thick self tapping screw, so maybe the honda is made to come apart, as member stated the part No of the honda is 2800-zm7-003 this is identical to the huasheng, not sure about the holding screw though. good safe riding.
Thank you for your update and fix to this somewhat common problem to these cheap and a bit cheesy recoil starters, I'm sure many here will find it useful.

Now the next recoil problem I've encountered recently is on the Predator 212cc. I did the easy fix of buying a spare 212cc engine from Harbor Freight and just swapping it out. The recoil had imploded and was just a mess.

Care to play with this little dilemma?