Rear tire won't turn?

C

chimtr

New Member
Hello everyone! It's great to be part of this forum, I have read many threads to get to where I am with my project.

First, I am a newbie and this is my first built. I have a RAW Silver Slant 66/80CC.
1. First issue I had was mountin the engine to my Schwinn Clairmont 26" so bought a Universal mount adapter from sickbikeparts (excellent customer service) and solved my problem.
2. Second issue I had was shortenting the 415 chain. Solved it by buying a heavy duty chain breaker from the harbor freight.


3. My current issue is that the rear tire wont turn. I first took the chain off and the tire turns properly without the engine chain. Second, I tried tightening/loosing the tensioner and moving it around and the rear tire still hardly moved. I tried pedaling/moving the bike without the cluch cover/and clutch and same issue. I tried spining the tire without the tensioner and same issue.
I can't pedal or spin the tire with and without the clutch engaged.

Actually, as I was writing this post, I removed the cylinder head and for some reasons the tire spins without the head. I then put the head back on and tighten it and now the tire wont spin again. Why is the engine sprocket so hard with the head on? :-|| The links below are pictures.

Does anyone know what I might be doing wrong and any suggestions on how to correct the issue? Thank you for all your help, everyone in this forum is awesome!! Thanks for all your help!

http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l574/carrascoa/r2.jpg
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l574/carrascoa/h.jpg
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l574/carrascoa/r1.jpg
 
Is the piston hitting the spark plug?

Could be excessive compression and may need a extra gasket or two. I had to add a extra gasket to one build I did.

How I would check it.
Remove chain
Disengage clutch
Remove spark plug
Use socket to turn the crankshaft (under magneto cover)
If no problem replace spark plug
Turn crankshaft again slowly and let the compression be able to bled off. May take some time. This won't happen immediately, may take a few minutes to complete rotation.
If you can turn the crankshaft, add a head gasket or 2
If you can't rotate the crankshaft, change to a NGK plug and a good plug lead. (it's needed anyway)
Since you say that without the plug installed it (crankshaft) will rotate so the piston is not hitting the head itself.
 
Last edited:
Are you sure the clutch is disengaging when you pull lever in? You may just need to adjust the clutch cable.......
 
Sounds like a minor problem with clutch cable adjustment.

If not,

Try pulling in the clutch, and at the same, roll the bike forward with enough force to break the clutch pads loose from the drive plate. It shouldn't require much too effort to accomplish this. It's normal for the clutch to arrive stuck after shipping.
 
chimtr said:
Hello

Actually, as I was writing this post, I removed the cylinder head and for some reasons the tire spins without the head. I then put the head back on and tighten it and now the tire wont spin again. Why is the engine sprocket so hard with the head on? :-|| The links below are pictures.

Does anyone know what I might be doing wrong and any suggestions on how to correct the issue? Thank you for all your help, everyone in this forum is awesome!! Thanks for all your help!
Click to expand...

Try doing the same thing with just the spark plug out. If it still won't turn the piston is hitting the head. Does it have a head gasket?
 
If the crankshaft won't turn, how did he get the chain on the drive sprocket?

I'm voting for an incorrectly adjusted clutch cable/ stuck clutch pads.
Tom
 
Hey guys! Thank you all for the quick response. I will try all your recommendations when I get home tonight and keep you updated. Sorry if I sound a little dumb with the questions I ask, I just have no experience with motor bike mechanics.

1. Al.Fisherman:Yes, I do have a head gasket but I think I'm going to put 2. I also bought an NGK spark plug so I might put the new one on and save the china one as a replacement?
2. Ilikeabikea/2door: I don't think my issue right now has to do with the clutch because as you can see on my first picture, I don't even have the cover on so the clutch won't be preventing the movement right? Or am I misunderstanding something here? The bike moves easily without the spark plug but with the plug in the head it get's stuck. I can see the piston moving properly without the head.
3. The crankshaft turns easily without the spark plug. That is how I got the chain through the drive sprocket.
4. Biknut:what are the clutch pads and drive plate?

I will try all of your suggestions. Thank you for all the help and I'll keep you updated!
 
Yeah I think you are misunderstanding how the clutch works. It's always engaged. You can't turn the sprocket until you disengage the clutch, which you can't do until you assemble the sprocket cover.
 
On some motors I can push the clutch arm with my thumb to disengage the clutch. It takes quite a bit of force.
 
With the clutch cover off the wheel won't ever spin freely because you have the engine engaged to the drive-train, not disengaged

Pulling the clutch in pushes the rod sticking out of the center of the small chain sprocket which disengages engine from driven gear. You need the cover on.

Your clutch needs adjusting, or the clutch pads are stuck like these other fellas told you

TiM
 
Any advice on how to remove a stipped flower nut? I tried put a rubberband, tape, etc on the tip of the screwdriver but no help...
 
never mind i fixed the clutch issue! but now I can't the engine to start...not sure what I an doing wrong?
I checked the gas line and it's not clogged. I took the carb and it doesn't appear to have to much gas so I can't imagine it being flooded. I'm running on a 24:1

Perhaps I'm just doing it wrong? I disengage the clutch and I begin to pedal. I then push the trottle up and nothing happens. I also tried letting go the clutch go after I pedal down the hill and pushing the trottle up. I also tried with the choke up and then the choke down. My cables are black to black and blue to blue with the killswitch disconnected.

What's the correct way to do it? Disengage clutch to allow bike to move, pedal, let clutch go?
I have a little bit of play on my throttle but not to much, could it be that? I have the most I can given the length of the wire.

Sorry for the trouble! I've been trying to read other threads but I'm still confused.
 
So I got the bike running again, I pedal downhill and disengage the clutch and pedal a little and the engine kicks in.
My issue is that once I turn to go uphill again the engine immediately dies. Why could this be? I tried adjusting the idle but it seems to always die on me as soon as I turn to go uphill, and the hill is not even that steep.

Any ideas?
 
when you first start using the bike it might run like crap.
you might find yourself peddling half a block for it to start &/or be able to run w/enough power to propel you.
also if the engine isn't warmed up yet it will stumble.
if it is chilly outside. you might want to just get the engine started & then pull the clutch so that it can idle for a min

make sure to start up hill @ a good speed.

after your first gal or two you engine will start running better & better.
then the weak points of you bike will start to show.
so it is really important to take 5 min to look over your bike before EVERY ride.
check brakes, clutch adjustment, chain tension & any mounts.
 
little late here but is it possible for your clutch pads to for lack of a better term adhere after a ride? like if the clutch got too hot and melted em to it?
 
laffAloha everyone. My son inlaw put the engine on the cruiser and before he left the island We could not get the rear tire to turn. I held the clutch in but still nothing. When i push it down the drive way i can hear the engine but the tire doesn't move much at all. please help i would love to start riding it. And by the way do i need to put the gas in the tank first before i try to turn the rear tire?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top