1. scratchbuilder

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    Ya know, you guys are right..maybe a soldered tank. I'll search our threads for how to's and where to get sealer. It would sure add sweatness to the build.
     
  2. scratchbuilder

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    Ok..brackets made ..time to learn some more lessons in welding..penetration is key..lol
     

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  3. silverbear

    silverbear The Boy Who Never Grew Up

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    Just noticed this thread and really like what you're doing.
    SB
     
  4. scratchbuilder

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    Thx SB. Del Rio( Mb) just too rigid in the rear. Orange crate (Mb) got cut up. Too many goofs. But gain experience of what watch for. Or so I hope...lol
     
  5. scratchbuilder

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    Finished welding brackets for sus. w/lil bondo! smoothed in. Motor mount up next,
     

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    #25 scratchbuilder, Sep 21, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2015
  6. magna_503

    magna_503 Member

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    It looks great. What bike did that swing arm from? Is it steel or aluminum? Do you plan on upgrading to the shock?
     
  7. scratchbuilder

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    Hi magna, the bike was a 'genesis saber 2600', probably a Wally bike. Swing is alum. I've got giant air shock. I did not know how nice a 'real shock' behaved till I mounted it on my daily peddler. Another swap meet deal,bummer was the giant didn't have the forks. It has rebound adj. The giant frame was a swing arm design like this genesis, but chain stay was broke...15$
     
  8. Davezilla

    Davezilla New Member

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    I got one of those Genesis Saber bikes in my stock room that I've harvested the rear suspension off of but my intention was to make a new bellcrank for the shock to ride on the top tube behind the gas tank for better engine clearance... I haven't done anything with it yet, but I was going to ask you which engine you are planning on putting in that bike because the way the CG engines mount it would put the carb right about where the shock sits.
    That's a really nice job grafting that suspension onto a cruiser frame tho and should allow room for a briggs type horizontal shaft engine
     
  9. scratchbuilder

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    Hi dz, there's apic of 79 pred goin in. Buttttt... I have a lil hs142 and am spoiled by its quiet ness. Yeah Briggs,Curt dug one out for me, then at my local swap meet I run across 2. 3.5 horsers for 30$ ea. Butttt I got this 79 so I'm just gonna use it. The 30$ will buy the wide bb I'll need. It all just came together,the sore but, the ,and the frames.thx.
     
    #29 scratchbuilder, Sep 22, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2015
  10. scratchbuilder

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    Any input on this idea for a mm....
     

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  11. culvercityclassic

    culvercityclassic Well-Known Member

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    I think it looks good for a motor-mount, you will also need to tie the top of the motor in somehow or it will move around. Look up sportsnam flyer's top mounts on his builds to get an idea.

    I like the design of that tail section and the overall look of that frame, nice job...
     
  12. magna_503

    magna_503 Member

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    I thought that rear suspension was similar. I had a genesis v2100 and was going to put a hub on there before building my raptor. Anyhow, quite a few guys over at endless sphere had taken the aluminum V2100/sabre frame to over 50mph. It should be an awesome ride once you get it up and running.
     
  13. scratchbuilder

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    Well i looked up 'sportsman 200' and, now will copy what he did. In my visuals i didnt see a mount built that way. . Just got to get it right the first time. In my design the not good part is the seat tube mount. I found the part welded to the plate would have to be below the engine mount hole or no getting the bolt in. Well its good to know im speed rated to above 30..cause this lil engine has already had me prayin brakes dont fail me now!! Thx guys!!
     

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    #33 scratchbuilder, Sep 23, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2015
  14. scratchbuilder

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    Got the pieces for the mm..putting them together..thx for the idea! There will be a top piece 4x4 spliting the seat post to mount the js. Using akg bearing hangers welded to 1" strips bolted to the 4" piece so I have adjustment. I'm wondering if, being a gentle shifter..if my nexus 3 speed would hold up...I'd hate to break it.
     

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    #34 scratchbuilder, Sep 26, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2015
  15. scratchbuilder

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    Here's the project as a peddler...the wheels are cranbrook rims laced to disc hubs, using the huffy spokes. The rims are sturdy with nice spokes. Had to drill out spoke holes in the hubs. All this chop & build comes from this forum right here! Like the song...& you're the inspiration &..lol.Maybe lose the white walls. Was trying for a classic look. Gonna go red n black.
     

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    #35 scratchbuilder, Sep 30, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2015
  16. scratchbuilder

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    Here's the updated 'del rio' with all the legal stuff...is that a shifter????. and a lever clutch...doh..ssshh. I need to order another front tire..leave it to beaver to adj. brakes wrong..rubbed sidewall..pop!
     

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    #36 scratchbuilder, Sep 30, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2015
  17. scratchbuilder

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    Mm with Js in place...and both drivesides runnin true!
     

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    #37 scratchbuilder, Oct 2, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2015
  18. Tony01

    Tony01 Active Member

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    Have you hooked up the final drive chain yet? I think you might have a major problem on your hands with the chain slack.

    With that geometry you might have slack that approaches or even exceeds 1" - maybe slack of two or more chain links. A regular tensioner can only take up slack of less than two links and who knows about the tensioner travel.

    The reason bicycles and motorcycles can get away with it is because the pivot point is almost exactly in line between the front and rear sprocket centers, thereby keeping slack to a max amount of around 3/32". And since this bicycle was designed to be driven by the bottom bracket, it would satisfy this requirement for proper chain slack.
     
  19. scratchbuilder

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    Point taken. This is how I deal with chain slack and stretch. Could use newer wheel..using those #35 chain half links just don't work for me. It's like I'm always half link short or long.
     

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  20. Tony01

    Tony01 Active Member

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    I meant slack due to suspension movement, not jus general slack. yours at full unloading it will be wherever and however you regularly set it, but then when you sit on the bike and hit a bump the chain will start seeing major slack. I'm not talking about one half link here or there. I mean like, 3 or 4 or 5 links. Or more.

    Here is how I set my tension. My jackshaft plates have slots for the bearing mounts. I set the tension in the middle chains then use engine position and wheel position to set the outside two. But I don't have geometry changing suspension to worry about.
     

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